So my closed loop operates fine but I currently have open loop locked because it seems to be more consistent and I want to focus on WOT. I just fixed a huge boost leak where the motor mount had worn a hole in my j pipe and the car hauls ass, however I am still seeing a ton of knock and its pulling all my timing. My afr follows my map pretty well when on the throttle so I'm unsure why I am seeing so much knock.

I did two pulls in this log 3rd/4th gear does anything obvious stick out? I noticed my combine fuel trims are negative when the knock happens but my afr is fine?

Also just noticed now that it's getting colder if my car sits outside all night trying to start it up is so rough. The idle afr fluctuates from 13 to 18+ and nearly dies a few times. I've adjusted the coolant temp fuel adjustment and it doesnt help. I've also noticed when its super cold my aem wideband switches modes on it owns from P00 P01 P02 P04.

If I have my car in the garage around 60 or 70 degrees it fires right up and idles perfectly.

1. There is something wrong with your knock sensor.
2. Unclick disable MAF compensation.
3) AFRs look decent but could use a little more work getting wbfactor close to zero throughout the majority of the pull.

Dial in your fuel trim at idle. I made some adjustments. You can see where the knock starts at 25 second mark that you're super lean.

I made some adjustments to the your maf comp, zeroed timing and fuel sliders.

TK's9d2TSi said:

Dial in your fuel trim at idle. I made some adjustments. You can see where the knock starts at 25 second mark that you're super lean.

I made some adjustments to the your maf comp, zeroed timing and fuel sliders.

Click to expand...

Ok made the adjustments to idle and cruise in closed loop still got to work on cruise a little. I did slightly tap into the throttle and the knock still wants to appear. I appreciate the help and tune adjustments, I'll get another log uploaded in the morning when I'm off work.

TK's9d2TSi said:

Dial in your fuel trim at idle. I made some adjustments. You can see where the knock starts at 25 second mark that you're super lean.

I made some adjustments to the your maf comp, zeroed timing and fuel sliders.

Click to expand...

So I've got most of the knock eliminated I only got 2.8 degrees of knock for a small moment. Much better then the constant 12 counts. I had to pull my maf comp above 2000hz to 20.3, the idc on my 680cc is 95% I could probably benefit with a few psi higher fuel pressure.

Post a log. At 95% you’re running out of injector. What’s your bfp?

TK's9d2TSi said:

Post a log. At 95% you’re running out of injector. What’s your bfp?

Click to expand...

It's sitting right around 43, my idc was fine on the stock fpr but I was getting 52 base pressure .

Can't open that log

TK's9d2TSi said:

Can't open that log

Click to expand...

Sorry something odd happened with Google drive.

You need to go full throttle, 100%. That's one of the first thing to do BEFORE tuning.


There's a part two also.

TK's9d2TSi said:

You need to go full throttle, 100%. That's one of the first thing to do BEFORE tuning.

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There's a part two also.

Click to expand...

Was afraid to go WOT I feel like this thing will fall apart. On a side note, I ditched the maf and got speed density installed. So I'm back at the start with tuning, I've got my isc as close to 30 as I can get it adjusting it anymore its either below 10 or above 50, my TPS fluctuates for some reason and the closest I can get it is 0.61-0.63 or 0.63-0.65 my fuel trims seem ok at idle? I was making adjustments once it was fully warmed up however when my fans kick on the car adds about 4% fuel until they shut off again.

Looks good.
Under fuel/rpm, select simulate idle switch from tps
Zero out your maf comp since you're sd now.