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DIY: 2g Evo Brembo Brake Installation using brackets (clocked up) PICTURE HEAVY

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I know there is a 25+ page thread on this, but i wanted to make one with all major steps of the brembo install without having to look through all 25 pages (plus most of the photos on the other thread are broken now after the new website).

Overall the install is very straight forward. Grind the knuckle, grind the brembos, bolt on the bracket and make sure they all clear.
Everything else is self-explanatory, like taking off the old calipers, rotors and the brake lines.
I'll include pictures on how I grinded the knuckles and brembos and some problems that came up through out my install.

This is an install for Evo 8/9 brembo brakes on a 2ga talon without removing the knuckles.

What you need:
1) Evo 8/9 brembo calipers/rotors/pads/brake lines
2) Brembo brackets that come with bolts and nuts for the front calipers. (Available from a freelancer on this forum.)
3) (Optional) Brake master cylinder and brake booster off a 3G Eclipse
4) Electric die grinder and angle grinder.
5) M14x1.50 tap
6) Longer bolts for the rear brembos (M10x1.50) - Preferably 20mm long [credit to ceedawg], but anything a bit longer will suffice as you can just use spacers/washers to make them work. (I used 2 spacers with the original bolts that were on the brembos)
5) PATIENCE
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-Gather the stuff you need
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-and tools for grinding



Fronts
Grind the knuckle to clear the brackets - used the angle grinder most of the time.
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- Tap the TOP caliper mounting ear with the M14x1.50 tap (factory diameter of the caliper mounting hole is perfect for this size), use the bracket to help make a straight tap.
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-I used an 3/8" extension because the tap handle hits wheel studs. Also clamped the bracket to the ear with a vice grip to secure it.
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- Grind off the casting on the back side of the caliper mounting ears as the brackets will mount on to them.
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...on to the grinding of the calipers
I used the electric die grinder with the carbide burr for the calipers.
Here are some pictures for how much and where it needs to be grinded to clear the top caliper mounting ear on the knuckle.
For clocking the caliper up, grind the side of the banjo bolt.
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Using the bracket and the thick, stubby screw (on the wrong side for measuring purposes only) that is used to mount the bracket to the ear helps to get an idea of how much the caliper needs to be grinded. Just imagine that the stubby screw is the mounting ear on the knuckle.
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Mount the assembly on to the knuckle to check that it mounts straight to the back of the mounting ears.
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Now put on rotors, mount caliper assembly, attach brake line and pins/pads
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Check if your wheels clear the brakes. Surprised that this wheel cleared with such a high offset (Enkei PF01 17x8 ET 45)

...on to the rears
Rears are bolt-on, no grinding needed.
However, I faced one problem. The brake lines i used were meant for Evos.. Here is the picture that shows the problem. (sorry for the off focus picture)
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The brake line mount on the car uses a 12-point socket. The evo lines will not fit in that socket.. So I had to grind the brake line socket using a bench grinder to turn it into a 12-point (not perfect but as long as it works LOL)
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other than that it just bolts on!
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________________________________________________________________________________________
Enjoy your new brakes!
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I take no credit in any of these procedures. Most or all credit goes to this thread.
Just wanted to create a DIY with lots of pictures that outlined the major steps of installing these brakes on our cars! Hope this helps!
 
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UPDATE (2015)

I've done the upgrade with the 3g BMC/BB and I must say, WOW.

I have been going to lapping days and autocross for the last 2 years and recently bent my valves at a lapping day (due to a exhaust leak at the manifold which melted the timing covers enough for it to get wedged in between the timing gears).

So this was the perfect opportunity for me to put in a 3g BMC/BB. However the 3g BMC/BB i bought from the classified had 14mm threads...so i had to go find another pair of these. Luckily there was a 2001 eclipse at my local pick n pull.

I had the braided lines and the adapter fittings (inverted/bubble flare to -an) and install was very straight forward. I still do have abs so i connected the lines from the bmc in to the module (my abs doesn't work though...should probably get rid of it..)

I wanted to talk more about how much better they feel/grab at the track events. Before i put the 3g BMC/BB on i USED to think that the feel of the pedal was perfectly fine with a 2g AWD BMC/BB, even at the track. But now, i can't believe i haven't done this sooner. I'm very happy with the feel and stopping power i get from these brakes. I think that most people should do this upgrade, especially the people who auto-x or track these cars! and i'm pretty sure the extra stopping power will be good on the streets.

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I had the braided lines and the adapter fittings (inverted/bubble flare to -an) and install was very straight forward. I still do have abs so i connected the lines from the bmc in to the module (my abs doesn't work though...should probably get rid of it..)
 
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I have doe this same upgrade. I have drove with the brembos and 3g master and a 2g booster for a little over a year. Then when my motor blew, I put in the 3g booster along with my 3g master keeping my brembos. I will say, without the 3g booster, the brakes felt much better, more stopping power, but with little effort. I felt as if the brakes where to touchy almost like a new car.

With the 3g booster and a 2g master, the brakes felt better. I like having to push the brake pedal harder and harder to stop. I dont mean hard to where your pressing harder but nothing happening. I mean harder and harder while the braking force stops you sooner.

Then 3g master and booster. The brakes where to touchy as in barley pressing them and barley feeling it, the car wants to stop quickly almost skidding.
 
Great tutorial, helped me out like you wouldn't believe. You were not kidding when you said patience is the key. I spent hours upon hours of grinding and checking to make sure the clearances were on point Thank you so much!
 
I have doe this same upgrade. I have drove with the brembos and 3g master and a 2g booster for a little over a year. Then when my motor blew, I put in the 3g booster along with my 3g master keeping my brembos. I will say, without the 3g booster, the brakes felt much better, more stopping power, but with little effort. I felt as if the brakes where to touchy almost like a new car.

With the 3g booster and a 2g master, the brakes felt better. I like having to push the brake pedal harder and harder to stop. I dont mean hard to where your pressing harder but nothing happening. I mean harder and harder while the braking force stops you sooner.

Then 3g master and booster. The brakes where to touchy as in barley pressing them and barley feeling it, the car wants to stop quickly almost skidding.
Definitely sounds accurate. I have Both the 3g booster and 3g master and I did mention that perhaps only changing the 2g booster to 3g was necessary while keeping the 2g MCwas sufficient. Or even vice Vera! I firmly believe.
 
Definitely sounds accurate. I have Both the 3g booster and 3g master and I did mention that perhaps only changing the 2g booster to 3g was necessary while keeping the 2g MCwas sufficient. Or even vice Vera! I firmly believe.
I just recently installed Brembos on my Spyder. I used the smaller Cobalt SS calipers, paired with a 3g booster/master. I love the pedal feel. The car slows predictibly and the pedal is firm and consistent. I can lock up the tires if I really dig into it. I cannot speak to the feel on a track though, as my car is just a weekend street car.
 
Guys where I can I source the bracket I am building a 2g awd and want to do this upgrade but I am having trouble finding it
no one makes the brackets anymore as those guys went years ago now

I am unsure if the bracket is still being made. You could try and find galant knuckles.
I have struggled to find them recently, prices for them went very high and now the galants have all risen in price they are not scrapping them as much now. this is why i came up with the other option thats making a brembo caliper equivalent. it was the only way forward i saw thats fully future proof
 
I found the galant knuckles for about $300 each NEW. I just want to have a matching front and rear setup...

Definitely sounds accurate. I have Both the 3g booster and 3g master and I did mention that perhaps only changing the 2g booster to 3g was necessary while keeping the 2g MCwas sufficient. Or even vice Vera! I firmly believe.
So you are saying change the MC and not the booster is preferred?

UPDATE (2015)

I've done the upgrade with the 3g BMC/BB and I must say, WOW.

I have been going to lapping days and autocross for the last 2 years and recently bent my valves at a lapping day (due to a exhaust leak at the manifold which melted the timing covers enough for it to get wedged in between the timing gears).

So this was the perfect opportunity for me to put in a 3g BMC/BB. However the 3g BMC/BB i bought from the classified had 14mm threads...so i had to go find another pair of these. Luckily there was a 2001 eclipse at my local pick n pull.

I had the braided lines and the adapter fittings (inverted/bubble flare to -an) and install was very straight forward. I still do have abs so i connected the lines from the bmc in to the module (my abs doesn't work though...should probably get rid of it..)

I wanted to talk more about how much better they feel/grab at the track events. Before i put the 3g BMC/BB on i USED to think that the feel of the pedal was perfectly fine with a 2g AWD BMC/BB, even at the track. But now, i can't believe i haven't done this sooner. I'm very happy with the feel and stopping power i get from these brakes. I think that most people should do this upgrade, especially the people who auto-x or track these cars! and i'm pretty sure the extra stopping power will be good on the streets.

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do you happen to have part numbers for the booster and MC
 
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