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OEM retainers and seals with aftermarket springs

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88BB8B

Proven Member
179
18
Oct 14, 2016
Coldstream, BC_Canada
Summary: If you are familliar with my car or have seen my last post about wristpin clearance you probably dont need to read the next paragraph.

Hey guys n gals. I'm slowly gathering what I need and building my 2g 4g63t. I've got eagle H-beams with the newish thicker ARP2000+ rod bolts, I'm going with ACL trimetal rod bearings and ACL Aluglide mains, not quite sure which pistons yet. Perhaps just OEM at first, I've got a nearly new set, but forged later for sure when I get a job after school pretty soon here, I've got 2 spare head gaskets anyway. HX35 with BEP housing or similar. All the fuel 850 FICs, and an AEM infinity to tell everything what to do.

I am aware that I will have to machine spiralock grooves into the OEM pistons to work with Eagle rods, but I have an HX35 and hopefully a twin scroll manifold soon, so I want to take full advatange of the early spool and low end torque of the HX-35 when tuning, without breaking rods, hence the eagles. Plus I have access to a machine shop and little shop experience so I plan to cut the grooves myself to save $$. I also have some beefy evo 8 wristpins to use.

So here's the first thing. I have left the head untouched since my bearings ate eachother and to my fortunate surprise the other week I found a box which contains most of a head kit I had forgotten I had bought a few years back. I was thinking about usning it but it doesnt have springs, I just have valve stem seals and retainers if I recall correctly.

So
A.) If the head I have is in spec after cleanup, and I use it with the stock valvetrain, includinc cams, how high an rpm will it be safe to set my fuel cut with the eagles and OEM pistons?

B.) I was very surprised to find that the seals and retainers are most of the cost of a spring retainer and seal kit, and just springs are pretty cheap, even from manley, so if I upgrade my springs to some manley single (not doullies) is it safe to use this combination of parts and rev high?
B-2.) What would a safe fuel cutoff be with this setup for valvetrain and the eagle rids and oem pistons.

C.) what would a safe redline be for a full forged piston and Rod and upgraded valve springs? If any different than OEM pistons.

D.) Am I just wasting my time trying to rev that high with stock cams? Would any power be gained on a stock cams engine if I pushed it to 8000-8250Rpm.
 
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Why do you feel the need to rev your engine beyond the stock limiter is the real question first.
 
Mostly for fun. If it's making decent power at high rpms and it's built safely to do so, then I would luke to atleast increase it somewhat over the stock... what 7,200?
 
If it's making decent power at high rpms and it's built safely to do so, then I would luke to atleast increase it somewhat over the stock.






snaptube vidmate word to pdf
 
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