DjHOGAN
Probationary Member
- 4
- 0
- Oct 17, 2020
-
Norderstedt,
Europe
Hello everyone! I will skip the storys and get to the point (if you want 'em, let me know).
I posted this on DMStalk, now here to increase my feedback chance:
I got a 93' Eclipse 2.0L 4G63 DOHC N/A 152.000 KM and after sitting for about 3 years it has the following issues:
1. rough idle: RPM not constant, dipping around +/- 250 RPM
2. idle RPM too high at around 1200 when warm
3. inconsitant misfires, motor jerking every 2 or 3 seconds as if one cylinder fails to fire for one sequence / car jerking when rolling in gear after letting off the gas at 70km/h or slower
Other issues we found:
- After cleaning the TB the car starts much better, but idle is too high, cant get the engine under 1000 with BISS anymore. There is a visible gap when looking though TB against the sky. Is there supposed to be a gap there or should it be closed completly? - If not, how big should the gap be?
-> I suspect the previous owner had the issue too, but instead of cleaning it, he adjusted the thottle position?
- Could the head gasket leak in cylinder 3 cause it to not fire sometimes? We looked through the spark plug hole, its not flooded but defently not dry. What else could cause the misfires and whats the best way to check for something like that?
- What is there to check for the rough idle? So far i know ISC, EGR, MAS and TB. Is there any particular oder in which to check these? And how? Because I do not own a analog voltmeter!
- We think that even before the car sat for 3 years, it was not serviced well. BUT i got some old paperwork from the previos owner:
EGR replaced 2013
ISC replaced 2013
Thats the only relevant parts to these problems that i found in there. There is not a lot we know about this cars history :/
Please let me know what you think. I will be happy to provide more information if needed.
!! - EDIT 18.10.2020:
- Swapped vacuum lines to throttle body around, they seemed to be wrong.
Before:
A - Yellow
E - Green
P - Red
Now, according to diagram:
A - Green
E - Red
P - Yellow
Could that have been the cause for the super dirty EGR and intake manifold? Is that even the correct order now?
- Adjusted throttle position, TPS and BISS. Now the engine dies right after start but when i give it some gas and then let off, it stays on no problem, idling at around 900-700. Still rough but at least not too high. Note that the BISS is now almost all the way open.
I posted this on DMStalk, now here to increase my feedback chance:
I got a 93' Eclipse 2.0L 4G63 DOHC N/A 152.000 KM and after sitting for about 3 years it has the following issues:
1. rough idle: RPM not constant, dipping around +/- 250 RPM
2. idle RPM too high at around 1200 when warm
3. inconsitant misfires, motor jerking every 2 or 3 seconds as if one cylinder fails to fire for one sequence / car jerking when rolling in gear after letting off the gas at 70km/h or slower
Other issues we found:
- intake manifold black and smudgy on the inside
- throttle body was dirty as hell (NOW CLEAN)
- EGR valve was dirty as hell (NOW CLEAN and works)
- engine is burning coolant in cylinder 3 (its damp, white smoke from exhaust)
- clean TB
- clean EGR
- replace sparkplugs & wires
- replace oil and filter
- replace fuel filter
- replace all belts and water pump
- replace valve cover gasket (was leaking)
- After cleaning the TB the car starts much better, but idle is too high, cant get the engine under 1000 with BISS anymore. There is a visible gap when looking though TB against the sky. Is there supposed to be a gap there or should it be closed completly? - If not, how big should the gap be?
-> I suspect the previous owner had the issue too, but instead of cleaning it, he adjusted the thottle position?
- Could the head gasket leak in cylinder 3 cause it to not fire sometimes? We looked through the spark plug hole, its not flooded but defently not dry. What else could cause the misfires and whats the best way to check for something like that?
- What is there to check for the rough idle? So far i know ISC, EGR, MAS and TB. Is there any particular oder in which to check these? And how? Because I do not own a analog voltmeter!
- We think that even before the car sat for 3 years, it was not serviced well. BUT i got some old paperwork from the previos owner:
EGR replaced 2013
ISC replaced 2013
Thats the only relevant parts to these problems that i found in there. There is not a lot we know about this cars history :/
Please let me know what you think. I will be happy to provide more information if needed.
!! - EDIT 18.10.2020:
- ISC checked, resistance is correct between all pins and it vibritates when ignition is ON. Should it move a certain distance visibly? We took it out, applied 6V as stated in all the manuals, checked pins again. It twitched on every test, but very weak and hardly visible. Is it not supposed to move a lot more?
- FIAV Wax Pellet element that expands when warm checked, closes correctly but airflow when cool is very very minimal (had it in the freezer for 10 min). Not sure, but it seems out of spec and feel like it should open more. Any ideas on that?
- Swapped vacuum lines to throttle body around, they seemed to be wrong.
Before:
A - Yellow
E - Green
P - Red
Now, according to diagram:
A - Green
E - Red
P - Yellow
Could that have been the cause for the super dirty EGR and intake manifold? Is that even the correct order now?
- Adjusted throttle position, TPS and BISS. Now the engine dies right after start but when i give it some gas and then let off, it stays on no problem, idling at around 900-700. Still rough but at least not too high. Note that the BISS is now almost all the way open.