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Racefab baffled oil pan (7-bolt)

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It's getting more difficult to do this now. As far as I can tell, the 2G oil pickup tube is no longer available new from Mitsubishi, so you would need to have a used one available to send away. Not cheap to send to NZ, but they don't have any cores and Mitsubishi has no stock. I think I may have scooped the last new one at a North American Mitsubishi warehouse, which I'll be sending (strangely, Racefab didn't request a pan core from me, just the pickup tube). Food for thought for anyone who wants to modify their pan.
 
Here’s a bunch of poor quality pictures I have of one I built for my car recently. A list of what I did:

Added a 1” strip between the flange and the body to bring the volume up to ~7 quarts

Removed the factory return line because it was below the new oil level. Replaced it with a -12 bung.

Added a wall with hinges for left hand turns

Added a skid plate to the bottom

Extended a 6 bolt pickup 1” to compensate for the new pan depth

Added a plate to the bottom of the 6 bolt pickup like Kiggly

Overall, the process was actually pretty easy. The hardest parts were extending the pickup and getting the baffle wall in the right place where it wouldn’t hit the crank. I know a lot of people won’t reuse an oil strainer but I did and I wouldn’t think twice about doing it again. Both my pan and strainer were filled with metal shavings from grinding which is worse than anything you’ll find in a used pickup. I just ran the strainer through an ultrasonic cleaner and power washed both parts with dawn for a couple hours when I was done. My current motor cost about 7k and I have confidence the parts are safe for it.
 

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So many projects LOL, it has been something im considering as a home diy kit, either a basic or advanced setup. Cost wise its more effective to get you lot to weld it in or find someone then keep shipping over then back again as it costs and builds up real fast. I shall see if i can work on something slowly while im working on other projects

Bobby, we know you have a lot of projects on your plate right now, but the kit concept makes great sense. No shipping large oil pans back and forth. Most of us could do our own baffling if we knew the right size and placement of the baffles. Whenever this kit becomes a reality, please let us know! It is an inexpensive mod to protect the most expensive part of our cars.
 
Wondering if someone can make just the templates (pieces ) for us and we can cut and weld them by ourself.

I would have no problem cutting my oil pan and welding it back together with the new pieces. The problem is to make the pieces at the right angle but worst is the design of the pieces which makes it even harder for us (people that don’t know sht about designs).

haha


Bobby, what about some kind of spacer that allows us to bolt on a 6bolt pan? Something similar to the picture below with the correct curvature to fit the 7bolt. We could then use the moroso pan.
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The spaces will work only on the FWD cars but not in a AWD, the spacer will bring the oil pan lowered and will hit the transfer case., in an AWD, there are only mm’s between the oil pan and the transfer case.
 
Bobby, we know you have a lot of projects on your plate right now, but the kit concept makes great sense. No shipping large oil pans back and forth. Most of us could do our own baffling if we knew the right size and placement of the baffles. Whenever this kit becomes a reality, please let us know! It is an inexpensive mod to protect the most expensive part of our cars.
I mean its possible for sure, having parts laser cut and folded couod be the way forward. Even the baffles inside would be pre cut and its just a matter of drawing around the parts and trimming whats in the way and fine adjustments to suit and finish.

I guess the extension would be on the side like the the moroso one as that will miss all OFH types where as mine sits forward and might hit the stock side facing ofh and the filter.
 
Here’s a bunch of poor quality pictures I have of one I built for my car recently. A list of what I did:

Added a 1” strip between the flange and the body to bring the volume up to ~7 quarts

Removed the factory return line because it was below the new oil level. Replaced it with a -12 bung.

Added a wall with hinges for left hand turns

Added a skid plate to the bottom

Extended a 6 bolt pickup 1” to compensate for the new pan depth

Added a plate to the bottom of the 6 bolt pickup like Kiggly

Overall, the process was actually pretty easy. The hardest parts were extending the pickup and getting the baffle wall in the right place where it wouldn’t hit the crank. I know a lot of people won’t reuse an oil strainer but I did and I wouldn’t think twice about doing it again. Both my pan and strainer were filled with metal shavings from grinding which is worse than anything you’ll find in a used pickup. I just ran the strainer through an ultrasonic cleaner and power washed both parts with dawn for a couple hours when I was done. My current motor cost about 7k and I have confidence the parts are safe for it.

Hate to break it to you mate, but that's not the part of the pan that needs baffling. It might help a little, but the baffles are most needed directly around the pickup. A good idea for added capacity with the pan drop, but for FWD only. What we need is a sump extension and diamond-shaped baffling around the pickup. Here's my SR20 oil pan for reference:
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Also, here's some cool stuff the people in this thread will be interested to know.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/e...-external-oil-pressure-regulator-why-how.html

And I guy that was successful in modding his 1G sump to fix his issues.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-to-do-with-my-sump.523646/
 
I was thinking of having a pan modified. There is definitely a need for a 7 bolt baffled pan solution. I wish one of the DSM fabricators/suppliers would create something. This needs to be linked to the fabrication forum.
 
I have said about laser cutting and offering a DIY kit. I think it needs to be looked at as its the easiest way to proceed i think. When i modified mine it was no 5 min job but it was fully custom and welded so it takes time. I might have to add this to a list of jobe to look into LOL
 
I sent him a pan and three pickup tubes a year ago and was in a bad spot with my build, so I let it sit. Lately I asked him to build it for use with an Evo IX oil filter housing - it looks really tricky to do but he said he’ll find a way to do it. I’m really scared it won’t fit because of something I failed to account for..but yeah, he’s still at it.
 
I sent him a pan and three pickup tubes a year ago and was in a bad spot with my build, so I let it sit. Lately I asked him to build it for use with an Evo IX oil filter housing - it looks really tricky to do but he said he’ll find a way to do it. I’m really scared it won’t fit because of something I failed to account for..but yeah, he’s still at it.
He did say it's going to be a long wait but I'm not in a hurry. Hope it works out for you. Any reason why you're going with an Evo IX OFH? Didn't know it was an option.
 
He did say it's going to be a long wait but I'm not in a hurry. Hope it works out for you. Any reason why you're going with an Evo IX OFH? Didn't know it was an option.

My downpipe isn’t friendly to stock OFHs, and I wanted to keep the provision for the air/air oil cooler and add the temp sensor port. Evo VIII/IX was the only solution that would have worked. The filter and ports for the oil cooler lines interfere at the front part of the RaceFab pan kick-out, so the solution might just be to use the later Evo pan addition.

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Oh heck yes, he came through! This *should* clear the OFH, lines and filter. My build is saved.

So yeah, he's still doing these, but you need to send him a pan and oil pickup tube as a core.

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Those look great. He's almost done with mine. Had him do a -12an oil return and also 1/8npt bung for an oil temp gauge.
That's probably yours in the bottom left photo, he said he doesn't do many -AN bungs at all (I elected to just use the stock port and an adapter fitting). One of those three was going to the US, I assumed it was yours, so you should be seeing it shortly.
 
That's probably yours in the bottom left photo, he said he doesn't do many -AN bungs at all (I elected to just use the stock port and an adapter fitting). One of those three was going to the US, I assumed it was yours, so you should be seeing it shortly.
I saw the photo and assumed someone else ordered one with a -an return.😆 It looks like he added the support bracket on the pickup tube as the brand new one I sent him lacked it. Makes sense as the added length would put a lot more stress on the flange...... Or maybe that's not my oil pan 🤔
 
The price is $880 NZD, or around $550 US at straight exchange, plus shipping both ways on the pan. Shipping is around $100-125 each way. You need to send a usable pan & pickup core, because the pan is extremely expensive new, and the pickup isn’t available. That’s cheaper than the Moroso 6-bolt pan, so pretty good value.
 
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