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2G Trying to sort out (new to me) swapped 2G GSX

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Bluecifer361

Proven Member
85
9
May 31, 2020
Corpus christi, Texas
So I have a 98gsx with a 6bolt 4g63t. Trying to figure out my firing order but everything I’m reading says says it depends on the year of the ecu that is in the car. I have no idea what mine is I’ve only had the car for a few months and the previous owner has done all kinds of aftermarket things. I’m trying to learn as I go here. Lol I guess the question is how do I know what ecu I have to know if my firing order is 4123 or of its what ever the other firing order is
 
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Well the reason I asked about checking the ecu was because, for some reason this car takes so long to start for cold starts. (like 5-10min) so I had been trying different firing orders but the car wouldn’t start so it was getting frustrating. I did just get the car started on 3214
 
A little of both. so if it’s a cold start it will take that long or longer sometimes. with cranking for 5 seconds or so then waiting a while then cranking for another 5 seconds. the old owner said it was because of the gm sensor and the q45 Tb
 
So today the car started right up. It seems if I stay on top of it and let the car run daily the chances of it starting normally are increased, but if I let it sit for days it seems like it just don’t wanna start. This is something I would really wanna fix I’m new to the dsm world though not sure where to start I’m use to my srt4 LOL
 
To figure out the fuel system, put a vise plier on the return line so it doesn’t allowed fuel to return, then open the switch and close it for several times.
Every time you turn the switch to the ON position (without cranking it) you turn on the fuel pump to prime the line and build pressure, if the fuel pump is not strong enough, it will not build the right pressure to start the car, so that’s why you turn the switch to the off position and turn it to the on position again to turn the pump ON and build more pressure to the line, repeat this process for several times and then try to turn it on to see if it starts.

If it starts right away, then your fuel pump is not good or your fuel pressure regulator is bad.



In a side note, the original firing order is 4123 or when is swapped, is 1432.

To have it clear. there are two coil packs, one is 43 and the other is 12, but you can run it as 43 or 34 and/or 12 or 21 so saying that the order could be 4123, 4213, 3124 or 3214, these 4 firing orders are the exact same thing.

If you swap the firing order, then it should be any of the fallowing orders which is. 1432, 1342, 2431 and/or 2341.

For you to better understand, one coil pack ignites the outer cylinders at the same time, which originally is 4 and 3, so you can do 4 and 3 or 3 and 4, it doesn’t matter, which they both gets ignited at the same time., Same goes with the center cylinders which is 1 and 2 or 2 and 1, again it doesn’t matter which they both ignites at the same time.

Hope you understand what I want to say.
 
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Ya I think I got the firing order correct now. the previous owner Did relocate the coil packs and I was curious if they did get swapped around to make the plug wires reach, because it’s all the way in The corner of the engine bay now. As far as fuel pressure if I prime it one time it builds about 50-55psi. With that said I do believe it has two in tank fuel pumps because I have two fuel pump Rewire kits under the back seats with two relays but only one fuse the other one is missing...LOL but when I swap the fuse to the other spot I got no fuel pressure so I’m thinking maybe one of the two pumps is bad. When I get more time I’ll try what you said thanks for the input.
 
To figure out the fuel system, put a vise plier on the return line so it doesn’t allowed fuel to return, then open the switch and close it for several times.
Every time you turn the switch to the ON position (without cranking it) you turn on the fuel pump to prime the line and build pressure, if the fuel pump is not strong enough, it will not build the right pressure to start the car, so that’s why you turn the switch to the off position and turn it to the on position again to turn the pump ON and build more pressure to the line, repeat this process for several times and then try to turn it on to see if it starts.

If it starts right away, then your fuel pump is not good or your fuel pressure regulator is bad.



In a side note, the original firing order is 4123 or when is swapped, is 1432.

To have it clear. there are two coil packs, one is 43 and the other is 12, but you can run it as 43 or 34 and/or 12 or 21 so saying that the order could be 4123, 4213, 3124 or 3214, these 4 firing orders are the exact same thing.

If you swap the firing order, then it should be any of the fallowing orders which is. 1432, 1342, 2431 and/or 2341.

For you to better understand, one coil pack ignites the outer cylinders at the same time, which originally is 4 and 3, so you can do 4 and 3 or 3 and 4, it doesn’t matter, which they both gets ignited at the same time., Same goes with the center cylinders which is 1 and 2 or 2 and 1, again it doesn’t matter which they both ignites at the same time.

Hope you understand what I want to say.
The key on for fuel is not true on a dsm. Only while cranking. You can crank even briefly to prime or fire the fuel pump manually with the oem check connector or through ecmlink if you have it.
 
The key on for fuel is not true on a dsm. Only while cranking. You can crank even briefly to prime or fire the fuel pump manually with the oem check connector or through ecmlink if you have it.
I’ve read that so many times from different people, but when I put my key to on I can clear as day hear my pump turn on and can feel the fuel constantly flowing in the feed line and out the return line I’m not sure why mine is different. Unfortunately I bought a modded car couldn’t find anything else when I was in the market
 
I’ve read that so many times from different people, but when I put my key to on I can clear as day hear my pump turn on and can feel the fuel constantly flowing in the feed line and out the return line I’m not sure why mine is different. Unfortunately I bought a modded car couldn’t find anything else when I was in the market
Somebody probably rewired the fuel pump to an ignition on 12v source. If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can clearly see fuel pressure come up and you can see if you have fuel available as you start to crank.
On a stock car the fuel pump relay isn't activated until the ecu sees cranking (motor must be turning) I would rather that be the case. In a crash the engine may die but imagine having the fuel lines ripped and the pump is still running. Many of us use a relay triggered by the same wire that feeds the stock pump so you can run a bigger wire but retain oem functionality. No reason you couldn't trigger the new relay with an ignition on source but i personally would not.
 
By the way, I forgot to mention the car drives very well it’s just if I don’t start the car for a week it will take so long to get it started but then the next day it will fire up fast. I’ve never had a car do this my last e85 car I had was a srt4 everyone told me swapping to e85 would effect my cold starts but it never did. I have a feeling it’s gonna be this way for a long time until I learn the ins and outs of these cars. The reward is in the journey. I’m all in.
 
M
Somebody probably rewired the fuel pump to an ignition on 12v source. If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can clearly see fuel pressure come up and you can see if you have fuel available as you start to crank.
On a stock car the fuel pump relay isn't activated until the ecu sees cranking (motor must be turning) I would rather that be the case. In a crash the engine may die but imagine having the fuel lines ripped and the pump is still running. Many of us use a relay triggered by the same wire that feeds the stock pump so you can run a bigger wire but retain oem functionality. No reason you couldn't trigger the new relay with an ignition on source but i personally would not.
My moded car is rewired and triggered by the factory wire pump, it turns on right when the key turns to the ON position and it stays On for a couple of seconds and turns off right after, it turns ON every time the key turns ON for a couple of seconds, I can see fuel pressure on my fuel gauge.

In my 100% stock talon, it does the exact same thing. It’s not rewired and is all factory.


Im not saying you are wrong, I’m just saying all my dams i have own (7 total), they all have had the same system.

I know link has the option to prime the pump for longer time but that’s a different system when the ECU controls everything.
 
By the way, I forgot to mention the car drives very well it’s just if I don’t start the car for a week it will take so long to get it started but then the next day it will fire up fast. I’ve never had a car do this my last e85 car I had was a srt4 everyone told me swapping to e85 would effect my cold starts but it never did. I have a feeling it’s gonna be this way for a long time until I learn the ins and outs of these cars. The reward is in the journey. I’m all in.
You could have a fuel injector leaking into the cylinder. You would have to crank a little bit to clear it out. Like flooding an old carburetor car. You can pull the plugs after it sits and smell them and the cylinder. Dropping of fuel pressure is sometimes a tell tale sign also.
 
You could have a fuel injector leaking into the cylinder. You would have to crank a little bit to clear it out. Like flooding an old carburetor car. You can pull the plugs after it sits and smell them and the cylinder. Dropping of fuel pressure is sometimes a tell tale sign also.
Interesting my plugs did smell like e85
 
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