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1G Apparent Misfire - Seeking Advice!

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Caleb Hughes

Probationary Member
8
2
Aug 25, 2020
Strathmore, AB_Canada
Hello there,

I’ve come to this forum seeking some advice with my 1990 Laser, non-turbo. She has the 4G37 1.8l stock engine, and I’ve come across what I think is a bad misfire. I’m somewhat self-taught, have worked in automotive for about six years total with plenty of hands-on experience, however no legitimate technician certifications. Here’s the run-down:

Purchased the car as a project/fixer-upper, from the get-go the vehicle has had idle/firing issues. Initial diagnostics with a journeyman friend of mine pointed me in the direction of a misfire, tested via pulling of the injector wires with engine running to attempt isolation of a particular cylinder. From passenger to driver, pulling the wires on far left and far right caused engine to die. Pulling the inner two caused no change. Started with replacement of plugs and wires, which caused no change. Replaced the inner two injectors (assumed to be bad) and still no change.

During this time, I simply have been trying to get the car to drive-able condition, I had plans to eventually swap a 4G63 turbo in when it became affordable. Further diagnostics would point me towards compression testing, however I’m somewhat certain the issue could be bad compression already. The motor does appear to have some coolant spillage along the passenger side of motor, indicated by a white film build-up, however monitoring coolant levels I have seen no drop either in the overflow reservoir or the radiator itself. Previous owner stated they had changed the thermostat, so perhaps just a mess left behind from that install?

Looking to start this thread and discuss my possible options. Thank you for reading and I hope to hear back soon, I love the look of this little car and would be sad to see it have to pass from my hands to the junker!
 
Misfire or only running on two cylinders?
From your description is sounds like it's not firing 2 and 3 since pulling 1 or 4 causes it to die.

I suppose it’d be safe to assume it may only be running on two- with me being not the most versed in these sorts of diagnostics, I just went with the term I knew, that being ‘misfire’. When the vehicle did move around better than it does now I did notice a significantly low amount of power. At one point on the highway I felt a further drop in power, leading up to the car no longer running.
 
Check the distributor, cap and rotor.

This is something I have never done, I’ve been doing some reading online to determine the best way to go about it, I do not want to risk messing up positioning of some of the items I’m reading about.. if you have direct advice for me though feel free to run it by! Thanks
 
This is something I have never done, I’ve been doing some reading online to determine the best way to go about it, I do not want to risk messing up positioning of some of the items I’m reading about.. if you have direct advice for me though feel free to run it by! Thanks
It is a simple remove and replace procdure. Keep the wires in order. This is a 10 min job. I am not aware of the firing order however if you document where the wires are just put them back in the same plcae on new cap. Rotor only goes on one way. It's a very very simple job.
 
Shouldn't anything to worry about. Just mark the cap to the base with a silver sharpie or paint marker, take it off to inspect things, and reassemble if it's good or with new parts if it needs them.
 
Same firing order as the 4G63 1-3-4-2. Each cylinder should have at least 130psi compression with a max of 14 psi difference between the high and low. At idle it should have 20 in hg vacuum. The spark plugs are typically NGK BPR6ES-11 (the -11 is the pregapped version, .039-.043 gap) 14-22 ft lbs torque.

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Thanks for all the info guys, so I’ve gotten the cap removed, could not find any cracks in the plastic. The rotor looks super clean, and I’m now attempting to remove the entire distributor unit from the engine to check the parts down the line. I’ve found four screws on the outside face, removed them all, but it’s still not wanting to wiggle free. There’s probably something simple I’m missing, either way, is this step worth the effort, should I be checking the unit that far into the motor?

On a side note, noted on my cap that the holes in which the distributor side of the plug wires enter are a little dirty. I’m going to clean those out and see if it makes a difference.

Thanks again!
 
With the distributor now cleaned and re-installed, I now have an engine that is worse off than before.. the rotor seems to be able to be placed in a multitude of directions so I fear I have done exactly what I was worried about, that being setting it out of alignment with the crank?
 
There is a specific procedure to time the distributor when installing it. I didn't include that before because I didn't want to suggest or imply you pull it.

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Hello there,

I’ve come to this forum seeking some advice with my 1990 Laser, non-turbo. She has the 4G37 1.8l stock engine, and I’ve come across what I think is a bad misfire.

I would check the o rings on the injectors and see if they have sealed correctly. I had the same problem on my 97 eclipse with the 420a motor and it turns out the o rings on my new injectors had seated incorrectly. It helps to dab the injectors in some gas before install. If that fails i would look at the fuel rail itself and see if its intact. IE no pin holes.
 
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