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2G Lower intake manifold bolts...

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Sjd6795

Proven Member
614
121
May 14, 2014
Wilsonville, Oregon
Trying to get my intake manifold off but I have no idea how I am suppose to access the lower bolts... I have tried with everything that I have to get a socket or wrench on there. The design is dumb it has the bolts positioned right under the runners I can barely squeeze my arm under there with a wrench.
 

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I got so used to the easy access from the bottom on my Spyder that having the AWD stuff in the way underneath was quite a shock. But I've always had reason to drop the downpipe and transfer case, so I've always considered that step one for intake manifold removal in an AWD DSM. If you have any other reason to be under the car, just go that route because it's SO much easier.
 
I got so used to the easy access from the bottom on my Spyder that having the AWD stuff in the way underneath was quite a shock. But I've always had reason to drop the downpipe and transfer case, so I've always considered that step one for intake manifold removal in an AWD DSM. If you have any other reason to be under the car, just go that route because it's SO much easier.
No reason to be under the car I did look down there though but yeah with so much stuff in the way I'll pass. My head has to come off so I think I'll just pull the head and manifold off as one, now time to watch some timing belt removal videos :(
 
You don’t have to go under the car. Hardest part is breaking them loose. Ratcheting wrench is the easiest imo. It’s an awkward angle but you can stick your arm in there unless you’ve only been working out your biceps
 
Just know that yes, using a ratchet on them from the passenger side going under the throttle body is possible, and yes it will suck at least the two far ones on the driver's side. Just accept it, understand you'll curse and possibly drop your ratchet a few times (or the bolts when you get them out) and push through. Most of us have been there, and most of us were probably cursing at how annoying these were the first time we did them, but once you know how to angle your arm/hand/ratchet you get used to it. Also, when you go to an aftermarket manifold things get WAY easier.
 
Just know that yes, using a ratchet on them from the passenger side going under the throttle body is possible, and yes it will suck at least the two far ones on the driver's side. Just accept it, understand you'll curse and possibly drop your ratchet a few times (or the bolts when you get them out) and push through. Most of us have been there, and most of us were probably cursing at how annoying these were the first time we did them, but once you know how to angle your arm/hand/ratchet you get used to it. Also, when you go to an aftermarket manifold things get WAY easier.
I spent my time cursing unbolting the waterpump pulley.. Now I am spending my time cursing figuring out how am I suppose to slide it off? There isn't enough movement to get it off the shaft.
 
Personally use a slightly longer wrench that i have around to break them loose then a stubby ratcheting wrench to finish them. First time I did it sucked. Every time after that seemed easy as can be. Giving your engine a little hug and getting your arm under the throttle body side is doable.

For the water pump pulley IIRC had to remove the motor mount on the drivers side and jack up the engine a touch to clear the firewall. Haven't had a water pump pulley off in a bit.
 
Personally use a slightly longer wrench that i have around to break them loose then a stubby ratcheting wrench to finish them. First time I did it sucked. Every time after that seemed easy as can be. Giving your engine a little hug and getting your arm under the throttle body side is doable.

For the water pump pulley IIRC had to remove the motor mount on the drivers side and jack up the engine a touch to clear the firewall. Haven't had a water pump pulley off in a bit.
Motor mount is off but I only have one jack and it's currently support my car because the wheel is off... I wouldn't be doing any of this if my radiator didn't crack and cause me to overheat.. It blew my head gasket on cylinder 3, cold engine I had 155 compression on 1,2,4 and 30 on 3. I figured while I'm at it I bought new radiator, new gaskets and seals for everything, timing belt kit, balance shaft delete kit, waterpump and other misc items. I'll see if I can't grab the engine and pull it up enough for it to fall out. :idontknow:
 
Motor mount is off but I only have one jack and it's currently support my car because the wheel is off... I wouldn't be doing any of this if my radiator didn't crack and cause me to overheat.. It blew my head gasket on cylinder 3, cold engine I had 155 compression on 1,2,4 and 30 on 3. I figured while I'm at it I bought new radiator, new gaskets and seals for everything, timing belt kit, balance shaft delete kit, waterpump and other misc items. I'll see if I can't grab the engine and pull it up enough for it to fall out. :idontknow:

From a safety perspective get some jack stands under there. Save your car and save your life if that jack decides to fail. That will free up your jack to use. Personally to adjust engine around I put a 2x4 scrap on the pad of my jack and adjust the engine up and down to where be. Just be slow and easy with your adjustments.

*disclaimer* I am no saint about using jack stands 100% of the time, but in this situation it will be both necessary for you and much safer.
 
From a safety perspective get some jack stands under there. Save your car and save your life if that jack decides to fail. That will free up your jack to use. Personally to adjust engine around I put a 2x4 scrap on the pad of my jack and adjust the engine up and down to where be. Just be slow and easy with your adjustments.

*disclaimer* I am no saint about using jack stands 100% of the time, but in this situation it will be both necessary for you and much safer.
Not underneath the car at all so it did fall it wouldn't hurt me. I did have some jack stands but no idea where they went. I've already spent like $500 on replacement parts and around $60 on some extra tools. Not really wanting to spend more. I'll put the wheel back on to free up the jack until I can get that pulley off.
 
Not underneath the car at all so it did fall it wouldn't hurt me. I did have some jack stands but no idea where they went. I've already spent like $500 on replacement parts and around $60 on some extra tools. Not really wanting to spend more. I'll put the wheel back on to free up the jack until I can get that pulley off.

That'll do the trick good luck with the project and take your time with how deep your going. Better to do it once right and be done than have to do it again later!
 
So I am at the point of removing the timing belt and components anything that I need to take notes of? I noticed on the tensioner there was an open hole where a bolt would go any idea if it's missing or is this normal? I also 3D printed myself a cam gear lock :D.

Also where would my timing mark be on these cam gears? I see the guides for the stock cam gears and it has obvious marks. These however do not, I notice some lines but it has several.
 

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You need to line up your crank and have cams dowels up. If you have balance shafts all marks should line up.
First time doing timing belt, unsure if balance shaft are there or been removed. I do get a good amount of vibration during idle but goes away once I start driving. By lining up the crank what do I line it with? I see the mark on the small gear(bottom right) is lined up with that arrow but I don't see any other indicators on my crank or cam gears.
 
First time doing timing belt, unsure if balance shaft are there or been removed. I do get a good amount of vibration during idle but goes away once I start driving. By lining up the crank what do I line it with? I see the mark on the small gear(bottom right) is lined up with that arrow but I don't see any other indicators on my crank or cam gears.
Go here.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html
 
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I did mine twice while hugging the engine, left hand and right hand was used and a ratchet wrench went along way, its not that bad once you figure it out. Once all the stuff is out the way you have to reach around the engine both sides and do this and its the only decent way i have done it, the rope way never really worked for me well so gave up on that idea
 
I noticed on the tensioner there was an open hole where a bolt would go any idea if it's missing or is this normal?
That bolt hole is for a timing belt cover's bolt.

where would my timing mark be on these cam gears? I see the guides for the stock cam gears and it has obvious marks. These however do not, I notice some lines but it has several.
Doesn't matter if the timing mark is a notch, a line or a dot. The mark's positions are all the same, unless you have wrong gears.
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Isn't that how DSM go LOL?

100% LOL

Not sure if those cams have been degreed or not but the outer gear (black part) should have dashes and those have to lined up at the top of the head with the dowels pointed somewhere about 12 o’clock. My Fidanza cam gears has 4 marks on each cam gear
 
I had this up already but the timing marks aren't the same for me on my cam gears because mine aren't stock. Is there another way for me to tell?

Also verified I do not have balance shafts I guess that was removed when the previous owner had a 2.3 stroker installed.
Somebody else already pointed out you have marks. Line up the crank then look at cams.
 
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