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Resolved Trouble with OHMracing fuse box install

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007jimmy

10+ Year Contributor
1,617
195
Feb 27, 2012
Levittown, Pennsylvania
I recently bought a 2g engine bay fusebox/harness and sent it out to ohmracing for the “fusebox tuck” option. I received it back and it’s super nice!!! The box had all the fuses/relays when I sent it out and it came back missing Some fuses/relays (see picture) I personally didn’t remove anything from the box when I sent it out, just cut the wires off like they asked. I put power to the 40a fuse (red circle) like the stock configuration. 4g wire straight to a fully charged battery. My door chime, windows, power locks, blower motor and turn signals will not turn on. Headlights/hi-beam, brake lights, dash lights, sunroof and radio work fine. Do I need to have the 100a fuse (missing in picture, white question mark) back in there and put power to it? I will be running a 1 wire Saturn alt so I didn’t think I needed to use the fusebox since it will have its own inline 100a fuseable link. I don’t remember anything going to the 60a fuse (black question mark) in the top left of the box. Everything else is plugged in. Fuses look good. Am I missing something here?
Engine is not in the car currently so there is no alternator currently and everything worked fine before the fusebox tuck. I just wanted to make sure I had the harness installed properly /working before I put the engine in.
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If you dont route your charge wire through that box then the 12v+ side of those circuits are not powered... you can add a jumper. I did. Just pop the bottom off and use a couple ring terminals, bolt your jumper in so it gives those circuits power and you should be golden.
 
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If you dont route your charge wire through that box then the 12v+ side of those circuits are not powered... you can add a jumper. I did. Just pop the bottom off and use a couple ring terminals, bolt your jumper in so it gives those circuits power and you should be golden.
Like this? If so that don’t work either. My interior lights on the mirror do not work either.
 
That's nothing like how mine is... I ran a 2" piece of wire with 2 ring terminals on it from one screw terminal to the adjacent. Id have to pull the box to be more specific. If you cant figure it out LMK and ill try to remember what I did a bit better.
 
That's nothing like how mine is... I ran a 2" piece of wire with 2 ring terminals on it from one screw terminal to the adjacent. Id have to pull the box to be more specific. If you cant figure it out LMK and ill try to remember what I did a bit better.
I understand what you meant and did. I just did what was easiest (and most of all temporary!) for me without cutting and making a wire. It’s just a positive battery wire running to a splitter with (2) 4g wires running to each bus bar. Should be the same thing as yours just mine is really gaudy, definitely not permanent. I pulled the power window fuse to triple check it and I’m hearing clicking from another relay by the steering wheel.
***Only clicks when removing/installing the power window fuse***
Swapped it out for a known good unit and still nothing. Looked it up and it’s the power window relay that’s clicking. Not sure what to do here :ohdamn::barf:
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I just want to be clear here, I removed the fusebox harness without hacking the interior harness, sent it out, got it back and plugged everything in. Grounds were put in a sanded down bare metal area of the frame on each side and all connectors were checked multiple times to make sure they were snapped together. Everything that isn’t working now, worked fine with the stock fusebox harness.
 
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Marking this resolved. So apparently sticking a fuse in the empty slot (see pictures below) made everything work. Not sure why but I got lucky here just trying it out. The locks, windows, lights, the blower motor all work now and even the right side of my gauge cluster (dash lights) brightened up WTF. I tried to upload a video but it doesn’t work.

Thank you @rabenne

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because it gives power to that side of the fuses for those circuits. you can put in a fuse, or run a jumper underneath, since the fuse is redundant
It still doesn’t make sense to me. If I put power to that bus bar (bolted to #1 on the diagram) why would adding a fuse to that block (that my car never came with fuse to start with stock) make it work? That blank is for the convertible top. I’m illiterate when it comes to this I guess and I accept that. Exactly why I sent my harness out to the pros. It works now so :idontknow:
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