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1G Destroyed my tcase

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enriquez2000

Proven Member
2,269
810
Oct 5, 2014
fort collins, Colorado
Ive heard people say that the tcase is pretty indestructible except for the spline shaft. Some how mine didnt make out so well.. im only around 450hp but the tcase couldnt hold.

It still drove but had the famous death whine. Put my spare in and fine now but wanted to share the carnage. Oh and the smell was lime something laid a rotten egg and burned it inside... horrible..

Any advice on how to save this next one? Ill have to find someone that can rebuild the destroyed one.
 

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Knock on wood but my 100% stock driveline has lasted all this year logging 60lb/min. What fluid where you running in the t case? I have broken trans parts before but never a t case yet.
 
Knock on wood but my 100% stock driveline has lasted all this year logging 60lb/min. What fluid where you running in the t case? I have broken trans parts before but never a t case yet.

I had royal purple in it.. although it was gray stinky sludge after this so cant see the color.

1st Ive ever seen of this.. if I had to guess the bearing went bad and caused the teeth to skip and grind... sounded not to unlike my procharger gear on gear whine in one of my other cars.
 
Maybe its time for a Magnus or Front Line Fab brace. Thats what I run. FF on the stick car (it's very beefy) and a Magnus cover on my auto car to try and hold the case together tighter. Just a thought. Boy you did grind the teeth down, did you do a dig, hard launch or what?
 
Maybe its time for a Magnus or Front Line Fab brace. Thats what I run. FF on the stick car (it's very beefy) and a Magnus cover on my auto car to try and hold the case together tighter. Just a thought. Boy you did grind the teeth down, did you do a dig, hard launch or what?
Wasnt too hard of a launch... honestly you couldnt even feel it moving forward, it was on decel(whining) and turning(tires chirping)... probably could have gone rest of the day if i wanted.. but nk reason to risk it.

Ill have to look into a brace.. just to be safe
 
They are PRICEY so don't get sticker shock! OMG
 
You can use a standard set of gears you just have to swap all the guts and get the tolerances correct.
@twicks69 ?
Please correct me if I'm mistaken.
 
You can use a standard set of gears you just have to swap all the guts and get the tolerances correct.
@twicks69 ?
Please correct me if I'm mistaken.
If i can find where to get those and the bearings ill rebuild this one as a spare. Hopefully ill never need it but good to have
 
By a cheap/good box from a 96 or earlier.
 
Looks like the inner drive gear tapered roller bearing failed. Normal occurrence. Way to fix it? Replace 30 year old bearings with a bazillion miles on it next time. They were designed for like 60K-80K miles of usage under stock load conditions.

Looks like the input sleeve may be salvageable, but of course your gearset is absolute junk.

As for mixing and matching used gearsets I prefer not to do so as the wear pattern already worked into the gear will be different and likely noisy.

As for transfer case with a destroyed gearset, just go find a good used one and pop the side cover off and inspect it first before usage for bearing wear or gear tooth wear / pitting.

Regarding Royal Purple in the transfer case, I typically run Redline Heavyweight Shockproof gear oil or at least a 75w140 gear oil. I normally do not run Royal Purple oil in the DSM transmission or transfer case unless there is no other alternative, and then I would stay with the highest viscosity gear oil as possible.

For bearings, there are OEM and suppliers with them. The seals, fill / drain plugs, fasteners, o-rings, shims, etc are OEM.

The only NEW gearset available for these is the Magnus billet gearset, which you absolutely do not need at your power level.
 
Lets see if Tim can verify the gears are the same as I don't want to give bad information.
 
Thank you Hiroshi. :thumb:
I was hoping I wasn't spouting bullsiht. :ohdamn:
 
90-96 auto or 5 speed are all 1.090 ratio 24/22 tooth gearsets. The input sleeve as well as the front housing, and mid housings are the differences.

97-99 auto or 5 speed are all 1.074 ratio 29/27 tooth gearsets.

As for your case of nuking the gearset as well as the drive gear inner bearing, I would suspect you likely have damage to the bearing race bore on the front housing which can be visually inspected to confirm.

Seriously, in this case, press off the input sleeve and save if the splines aren't trash. Otherwise, pull the bearing races out, keep the shims, disassemble the driven gear from the mid housing and save shims, and save the tailhousing if it is not damaged at the slip yoke bushing. The gearset is trash.
 
I second Tim...the rear bearing started to go bad and was ignored which altered the contact depth of the gearset and eventually led to the failure of the gear(s) at a seemingly-low power level.

For a street driver I'd recommend a standard 75W140 or 85W140 GL5 gear lube over any of the waxy shockproof lubes....the shockproof lubes are great at handling high loads but poor with heat dissipation, and their "waxy" characteristic can cause them to get slung to the outside during sustained high-speed driving where it's not keeping the gearset and bearings quenched. I've also seen the shockproof oil plug the vent and keep the case from breathing which eventually starts pushing oil past the seals.
 
Thanks @twicks69 & @JusMX141 !!!
I love this forum for the friendly knowledge that is shared. Thanks guys!
 
Is there a resource for the gear sets and bearings assuming the front casing is salvageable?

Or would i be best just sourcing a whole new case as another spare.
 
No, the OEM gearsets have been discontinued for years, you would need to find a good used gearset (aka, buy a used tcase), and you have no need for a $2700 billet gearset. You will need to see if your input sleeve is even salvageable as the bearing failure could have galled it or friction welded the bearing to the sleeve, and your splines could be wiped out too from the bearing failure. Look for another auto tcase. The auto input sleeve is shorter than a 5-speed input sleeve and would cause clearance issues if you use a 5 speed sleeve (or you would have to grind down a 5 speed sleeve to be the same height as the auto sleeve).

Here are parts -
Transfer Case Short Bolts - M12x70mm MF241319
Transfer Case Long Bolts - M12x130mm MD718549
Transfer Case Pinion Shaft End Shaft Nut (1991-1999) MD743421
Inner Drive Gear (Facing Trans) Roller Bearing MD717511 - LM67048-LM67010
Outer Drive Gear (Side Cover) Roller Bearing MR967457 - 32008XM 90KM1
Inner Driven Gear (Facing Front Section) Roller Bearing MD718322 - 32009XM 9/KM1
Outer Driven Gear (Facing Tail Housing) Roller Bearing 2950A001 - 32010XM 90KM2
Transfer Case Input Seal MD723202
Transfer Case Output Seal MR983368
Side Cover O-Ring MD727944
Mid Case O-Ring MD771014
Transfer Case Breather Bulb MD727784
Transfer Case Inspection Plate Gasket MD752981
Transfer Case Inspection Plate Machine Screws MD728060
Transfer Case Side Cover OEM Bolts - M10x25mm MF241282
Transfer Case Mid Housing Bolts - M10x30mm MF241284
Transfer Case Tail Housing Bolts - M8x25mm MF241255
Fill Plug MD701850
Fill Plug Gasket Washer MF660036
Magnetic Drain Plug and Gasket MB001265
Driveshaft Yoke Repair Kit (Yoke and U-Joint) MR470072
 
No, the OEM gearsets have been discontinued for years, you would need to find a good used gearset (aka, buy a used tcase), and you have no need for a $2700 billet gearset. You will need to see if your input sleeve is even salvageable as the bearing failure could have galled it or friction welded the bearing to the sleeve, and your splines could be wiped out too from the bearing failure. Look for another auto tcase. The auto input sleeve is shorter than a 5-speed input sleeve and would cause clearance issues if you use a 5 speed sleeve (or you would have to grind down a 5 speed sleeve to be the same height as the auto sleeve).

Here are parts -
Transfer Case Short Bolts - M12x70mm MF241319
Transfer Case Long Bolts - M12x130mm MD718549
Transfer Case Pinion Shaft End Shaft Nut (1991-1999) MD743421
Inner Drive Gear (Facing Trans) Roller Bearing MD717511 - LM67048-LM67010
Outer Drive Gear (Side Cover) Roller Bearing MR967457 - 32008XM 90KM1
Inner Driven Gear (Facing Front Section) Roller Bearing MD718322 - 32009XM 9/KM1
Outer Driven Gear (Facing Tail Housing) Roller Bearing 2950A001 - 32010XM 90KM2
Transfer Case Input Seal MD723202
Transfer Case Output Seal MR983368
Side Cover O-Ring MD727944
Mid Case O-Ring MD771014
Transfer Case Breather Bulb MD727784
Transfer Case Inspection Plate Gasket MD752981
Transfer Case Inspection Plate Machine Screws MD728060
Transfer Case Side Cover OEM Bolts - M10x25mm MF241282
Transfer Case Mid Housing Bolts - M10x30mm MF241284
Transfer Case Tail Housing Bolts - M8x25mm MF241255
Fill Plug MD701850
Fill Plug Gasket Washer MF660036
Magnetic Drain Plug and Gasket MB001265
Driveshaft Yoke Repair Kit (Yoke and U-Joint) MR470072

Thank you!

I am using my spare tcase now. Just like having extra parts for a just in case situation.

So if im reading that right, i cant just swap manual "guts" into an auto case without swapping the input sleeve. Just want to clarify.

Ill keep my eye out for auto tcases...
 
The gearset works, but you just have to swap the input sleeve; it is a simple press apart affair.
 
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