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1G Timing belt wander fix

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
The engine I built was experiencing some timing belt wander and it also effected the tension on the belt. Normally when I build a motor I use a brand new tensioner arm. Unfortunately for us 6 bolt users it’s becoming harder and harder to find them. Luckily I was able to find some more for my stash. To fix the issue I ground down the dimple flat so that the timing tensioner could sit flush. You also need to make sure that the plastic bushing is in good condition.
 

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Your flanges control where your timing belt sits on the cogs, I cant see that tensioner area being the problem, that divot is there for a reason.
 
Wow maybe that's what is happening to my 6 bolt. My timing belt is wearing prematurely on the inside edge only. Tensioner wheel has a small lip/flange on it that seems to be eating into the belt. Could this be from the tensioner wheel moving back and forth?
 
Yes indeed , I have two new 6 bolt tensioners..... they need to be FLAT....

Wow maybe that's what is happening to my 6 bolt. My timing belt is wearing prematurely on the inside edge only. Tensioner wheel has a small lip/flange on it that seems to be eating into the belt. Could this be from the tensioner wheel moving back and forth?
Check for slop in your smiley face pulley and idler, make sure the tensioner arm is flat , no divot ,and the plastic bushing is in place and in good condition
 
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And the reason is the tensioner wears the divot into the arm over time. It is not supposed to be there.:thumb:

Tensioner arm wear question
bad tensioner arm?
And this is my point, the arm is junk and needed replaced long ago, grinding it down will weaken it and the divot is not what caused the misalignment issue, the bearing surface on it is either junk or the flanges that align the belt are problematic instead.
 
Grinding down that area will not effect its structural integrity. I’m not Implying the dimple was the fix to the wandering but I make sure all of mine are flat because they ALL get dimpled and they aren’t supposed to be. The plastic bushing needs to be in good condition. The next obvious thing is the smiley face pulley and idler. Most cars I work on have timing hardware with less than 1000 miles anyway so these are rarely an issue.
 
Grinding down that area will not effect its structural integrity. I’m not Implying the dimple was the fix to the wandering but I make sure all of mine are flat because they ALL get dimpled and they aren’t supposed to be. The plastic bushing needs to be in good condition. The next obvious thing is the smiley face pulley and idler. Most cars I work on have timing hardware with less than 1000 miles anyway so these are rarely an issue.
But what about when the tensioner puts another deep dimple in it like it had before? how many times can it do that before it snaps that tip off?
 
But what about when the tensioner puts another deep dimple in it like it had before? how many times can it do that before it snaps that tip off?
Oh there’s plenty of material, One grind and that’s all you’ll ever need seeing as though most of these arms have 20+ years of service. I put new arms on the motors I build, it’s just getting Harder finding parts for the 6 bolt. I’ve been getting the ones made by Hyundai.
 
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