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2G Unable to hold idle after reving

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Heat16

Probationary Member
12
1
Jul 16, 2018
Rochelle Park, New_Jersey
Hey Guys,

limited to the newbie forum here, been lurking for like two years while I slowly got my 2g up and running. I read through like 20+ other posts of people having similar issues, and nothing I have come across has helped the issue.

The car is 6 bolt swapped with stock injectors for now and a holset hx40, I'm really just trying to get it driving around town reliably with a stock-ish tune before dropping bigger injectors in and bumping everything up from there.

Currently, the car is dying when you rev it and let off the gas. It does this both just sitting in the driveway and also when slowing down for stop signs and stuff like that.

So far I have done the following:
- Checked base timing
- Boost leak test (held 30 psi no problem)
- Double checked that the BOV is recirculated (NGR Type-S)
- Replaced ISC
- Adjusted TPS
- Set ISC to ~30 at idle via the BISS screw and double checked this like 20 times

I've attached a log out of ECMLink of it dying after me giving it a rev in the driveway during idle. If you look at the end (125 sec) you'll see where I rev it and it dies.
 

Attachments

  • REV AND DIE.elg
    90.1 KB · Views: 117
Under MAF Comp, uncheck the disable MAF compensation w sd operation.
Not sure if Pin Assignment is correct for MAP under ecu Imputs. You have knock sensor code and MDP malfunction codes.
 
Nothing jumps out to me but you have some speed density functions enabled that could be causing it. You need to uncheck the "disable airflow smoothing" and uncheck "disable maf compensation".

Under MAF Comp, uncheck the disable MAF compensation w sd operation.
Not sure if Pin Assignment is correct for MAP under ecu Imputs. You have knock sensor code and MDP malfunction codes.

Thanks, still new to link. I unchecked both of those boxes and swapped out the knock sensor for a spare that I had lying around.
I currently don't have an MDP sensor plugged in (cyclone intake manifold) but that code seems to be gone now. Maybe since I turned those SD settings off?

A few things I've thought of since reading through some more posts:
-I do have a fidanza flywheel; but I upped my idle to 850 in link a while ago to compensate for that and the slight overbore.

-Someone mentioned a potential BOV issue (like its not opening up and causing compressor surge which makes the MAF get some wonky spikes. Im attaching another log I took of just one rev and it dying after your recommended changes. it does look like the MAF is bouncing back and forth from about 127.6 to about 130 sec. I'm not really sure how relevant that is but its quite smooth before I gave it a rev. I'm not sure that the BOV would have any real effect when reving it up to 3k rpms in neutral tho.

-Could the ISC be bad? it looks like its reacting like it should in the logs, and it reacts to my biss adjustments like it should. Also Its brand new, the engine has idled maybe like a total of 45 minutes and driven like 1 mile on this new ISC.

-Could the MAF be bad? I'm unsure of its history, it came with the car which was not running and half apart when I bought it. It idles perfectly fine, so figured it was probably ok.
 

Attachments

  • REV DIE AFTER SETTINGS CHNGE.elg
    89.2 KB · Views: 116
Would be so easy to swap out another MAF and see if the problem persists. Are you recirculating the bov as it should be? I assume so. I've never ran a Holset on a MAF so some other members might be more experienced in that.
 
Honestly it sounds like the flywheel is the problem. Had the same problem on my FWD 1G TSI because it had a superduper lightweight flywheel.


There should be a setting in Link you can use to help stop it. I honestly forget what it's called so someone else can chime in.
 
After putting a "lightweight" flywheel in one of my cars, I kind of regret it because of the loss of inertia. It is something to consider as I always appreciated the stored energy on my Small Block Chevys. Just an opinion.
 
So I messed with the Idle Air clamp settings and I've got it acting more normal now. It seems to be a little inconsistent, but that could be me just messing with the numbers too much; need to look into it in more detail.

I also feel like this points to an issue with the MAF since the Link wiki mentions that these settings should be for a vented BOV or a weird MAF condition. I do have the BOV recirculated back into the intake like it's supposed to be.
 
Last edited:
The mafcomp sliders are wonky. And when you rev it goes up to 300hz, you're using all those wonky settings throughout. Does your engine run that jagged? Of course not. You'd probably be better off just zeroing them out for now.

Try checking the box under Idle Air and see if that helps. Also play with Coasting FC Offset on the RPM/TPS tab. Raising this value helps a bunch with the car bogging down when coming to a stop in my experience.

Otherwise I see nothing sticking out as bad or incorrect. ISC and MAF reading look reasonable. Only thing that sticks out of me is your coolant temp being really high.
 
The mafcomp sliders are wonky. And when you rev it goes up to 300hz, you're using all those wonky settings throughout. Does your engine run that jagged? Of course not. You'd probably be better off just zeroing them out for now.

Try checking the box under Idle Air and see if that helps. Also play with Coasting FC Offset on the RPM/TPS tab. Raising this value helps a bunch with the car bogging down when coming to a stop in my experience.

Otherwise I see nothing sticking out as bad or incorrect. ISC and MAF reading look reasonable. Only thing that sticks out of me is your coolant temp being really high.

Thanks for the input. I just set those using the MAFCompAdjust based on some things I read in other threads. I'll zero them out for now and play with the coasting offset like you mentioned.

I did start messing around with the Idle air settings, earlier and I did get it to react better but I had to actually make changes to the idle air clamp table in order to really get it to play nice. I pretty much just guessed at it. Not really sure if I adjusted the proper value ranges or not. I have a log of part of a drive after messing with the idle air clamp settings; ill attach it here. I only messed with the 1000, 500, and 0 ranges and I don't think it's right since after the drive it was acting up a little in the driveway at idle.

The temp issues are probably just because it's been so hot these past few days. I've never seen them this high before in the past.
 

Attachments

  • Idle Air Clamp Drive.elg
    139.6 KB · Views: 107
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