AWD-Tony
Proven Member
- 6,801
- 3,735
- Sep 11, 2017
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Cincinnati,
Ohio
You're not simulating O2 with your WB, so go into ECU Inputs ECU side and change Wideband to undefined.
And zero out your fuel slider.
And zero out your fuel slider.
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Not really. You need to get the idle sorted out perfectly by doing that everything on site then you'll be ready to move on.
Thank you both! I have changed injector deadtime from 450 to 330, zeroed out my fuel sliders, copied over the 2g timing map which is a little more conservative, and changed wideband to undefined in the ECU Inputs tab. This shouldn't change anything if narrowband simulation is disabled, should it? Nevertheless, I don't think it will hurt. Should any of my ECU Input Locks for Factory Code be enabled?Ethan, I forgot to mention the fuel sliders that Tony did. He is right, set them to zero for now.
Thanks guys!
I've read that if you don't lock them the ecu keeps checking for them or something along those lines. I've never locked them but it's supposed good practice to lock.I don't lock any of mine but I have seen some logs that have some of them locked, IDK why myself unless testing. Anyone else lock any factory codes???
I unlocked all of them when I wired my wideband to the EGR temp pin. I assumed that if the egr temp was locked, it wouldn't read wideband correctly. Not sure, but I'm just going to leave them all unlocked unless I come across an issue that I think is causing it. Thanks!I've read that if you don't lock them the ecu keeps checking for them or something along those lines. I've never locked them but it's supposed good practice to lock.
Well its a bi*** to get to the 2 bolts of the TPS loose and once you do, I highly recommend replacing them with allen head screws for easier access the next time you may need to do anything there.
Zero the adjustment and run link. Turn the TPS until Link reads around .63v (it usually moves up about .01v when the car is running) on TPS voltage. That will set the zero part or get it super close, then check WOT voltage and it should read between 4.8-5v. If not, use the adjustment tool in link to make the zero and the 100% read correctly (zero and 100%) and leave it alone. When tightening the bolts back down, the TPS will sometimes (a lot of times) move a bit so keep an eye on the Link reading while snugging the bolts back down. After its tight, if it moved you can use the adjustment tool to fine tune it but it is always best to get the sensor as close mechanically as possible.
Car starts hard and idles very high and rough. I see now that the TPS idle voltage is not the same for different throttle bodies...He has both o2 sensors hooked up so he doesn't need to simulate. Are you saying the car isn't starting now?