The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support STM Tuned

2G Manifold burning altenators

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Buddy2

Proven Member
129
33
Oct 7, 2013
Helsinki, Europe
I just wanted to create thread about this common issue with these cars. This is a problem that will create alot of frustration untill you really get problem pointed out in to altenator (having volt meter in dash is a great idea). Melting altenators has bring alot of idle and tuning issues to me once it starts to burn. I do use head shield on my downpipe but i still managed to fry another altenator in 2 years. This time i will be shielding new altenator better and installing volt meter in dash.

My findings on my current altenator is that it was charging battery enought to keep my car going for a long time but slowly i got issues with my tune even my battery light did not pop up yet. it was still charging some while i was driving but totally dead ad idle in the end and finally battery light came on at idle.

I opened this altenator to actually try to pinpoint the problem with heat and if its actually possible to fix old ones instead of buying new.

This is what i found inside altenator. Some solders are actually melted from the heat and voltage regulator has bad connection on other side. What im going to try is re solder all connections and try if it starts working with old regulator. I really dont know much about electricity so these are just my ideas. I noticed when you solder altenator coil wires in make sure they are enough deep or your cooling blade will hit that coil wire. I just used small scredriver to bend them down once i noticed this.

I basicly just resoldered every connection and tried the altenator whitout changing new voltage regulator. Now car is charging 13.2v at iddle or cruise so the voltageregulator is mostlikely toast i think. I will try to put in new regulator as these are around 30$ but i allready have new altenator on the way so this is just experiement.

In europe its pretty hard to find these altenators allready so its pretty important to keep them from burning in future for me.
 

Attachments

  • Altenator.jpg
    Altenator.jpg
    279.3 KB · Views: 182
Last edited:
I went through about 5 alternators then I created a heat shield, wrapped it in exhaust wrap and stuck it between the alternator and o2 housing/downpipe and this one has been good for about 3 years. Simple fix to a very annoying problem.
 
That's why I make alternator heat shields and wrap the o2 housings.
Absolutely! The amount of frustration when your car craps as altenator starts its path of death. I plugged volt meter in to cicar lighter and will be keeping it on in future. I think there is good spot to install heatshield from powersteering pump bolts.
 
I made one out of aluminum, bolts to the dipstick bolt and one of the bosses just above the oil pan rail. Pic doesn't show it greatly, but I know it works as I can actually touch the alternator case now after a drive.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
i plan to use some heat shielding from German cars at my local parts yard, the stuff has little round dimple like craters in it to help reduce temps, looks like the stuff in the ebay link below, it is used on lots of bmw mercedes audi/vw cars even on the transmission tunnels, if you need a large piece, and it keeps temps down i plan to wrap it on the exhaust manifold https://www.ebay.com/i/153894046600...MIj9OwsqvG6gIVEhLnCh3YlwmZEAQYBSABEgL-SPD_BwE
 
Last edited:
I thought I was killing alt, but the guy rebuilding them for me said I was melting the insides. I made a shield, actually ran a cool air duct to it wrapped and heat coated the o2 problem solved.

Run a 150 amp alt with a diode trick to fool it give me an extra .5v. Ground wire off the alt case to the frame, and an extra 8ga wire from the fuse block to the power terminal of the alt. Lots of good voltage.

I have one on both my 1gs.

I have an extra heart shield for sale, pm for details.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
The factory location for the alternator is a terrible place, water/salt/crud from the highway, heat from the exhaust and oil from the leaky power steering system, the best place for them is in the back of the engine where the a/c used to be.
 
Damn you got some clean enginebays!! i bend some thin aluminium that i just hanged from lower powersteering bolt. I will put something on that altenator power cable bolts as it could have really bad things to happen if the shield hits it in any situation.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Damn you got some clean enginebays!! i bend some thin aluminium that i just hanged from lower powersteering bolt. I will put something on that altenator power cable bolts as it could have really bad things to happen if the shield hits it in any situation.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You NEED the orange rubber B+ cover on your alternator like right now, I have seen a fire from what your doing.
 
Yes i know as i said that up there. I have battery disconnected from vehicle as im wating my new altenator to arrive.
I know what you SAID, I dont know how seriously you might know that it is from a safety standpoint,,you seemed to be not all that concerned about it as if you might get to it at some point and it really should be gotten to immediately, thats all that I was getting at.
 
I know what you SAID, I dont know how seriously you might know that it is from a safety standpoint,,you seemed to be not all that concerned about it as if you might get to it at some point and it really should be gotten to immediately, thats all that I was getting at.

Ok cool thanks. I do know what happens when you put allen key between battery terminals and how dangerous it is. I just did not see a point connecting battery as i will be switching new altenator once it arrives.
 
Yeah, you absolutely positively must cover that power terminal or you are asking for a smoldering DSM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Red-Battery-Alternator-Starter-Terminal-Post-Stud-Boot-Cover-2-AWG/292640010144?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Cheap insurance, I just purchased some of these, fit great.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Yes. Those are actually better than orginal as they cover the whole wire. I did some retesting and installed new regulator yesterday in this unit but voltage remained at 13.2. I was pretty sure it would fix but nope.

Hopefully new alt will be here in few days.
 
Last edited:
I just installed a new alternator and i'm pretty certain it's toast already LOL I'm going to warranty it out and build a heat shield before I reinstall.
Sound like a plan :) i got my new altenator today and installed. Only problem was that even it was same number than my last one it had too wide mounting point so i had to use some spacer there. Mostlikely i have now 2 working altenators as i was dump and noticed cicared lighter only receives 13.2v all the time and thats where i just plugged volt gauge in to while fixing another altenator that was not charging. 14.2 at battery now. Lets see how long lifetime for thisone ahead (prolly more than motor anyway)
 
Sound like a plan :) i got my new altenator today and installed. Only problem was that even it was same number than my last one it had too wide mounting point so i had to use some spacer there. Mostlikely i have now 2 working altenators as i was dump and noticed cicared lighter only receives 13.2v all the time and thats where i just plugged volt gauge in to while fixing another altenator that was not charging. 14.2 at battery now. Lets see how long lifetime for thisone ahead (prolly more than motor anyway)

Tested my alternator and battery yesterday, turns out my battery is junk now LOL 6 years old I guess it lived a good life.
 
Install / put back the metal engine hook, and make a metal heat shield plate between the alternator and turbo. Its useful.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top