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rabenne's street car

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Got the runner portion of the plenum looking pretty good. there's so much I cant reach inside the plenum that im leaving it alone. The TB opening is going to get opened up to 70mm to accommodate an s90. basically just for a bit of bling factor... I dont think ill have any advantage or disadvantage with the s90.

20200713_204136.jpg
 
Not a true before and after... but pretty fair equivalent...

This is def the hardest part to do. gasket matching still needs a touch more work... I didnt shape enough before changing grits. Im guessing 4-6 more hours to finish this damn thing.... buzzzzzzzzz!

This one is only partially done... more grits and then some polish...

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Let us know if you like that manifold, I have one with all the accessories on it still, ptu, coil, tb, vacuum pot....everything that came off of the JDM motor is still with this unit. :thumb:
 
I do... quite a bit. I have been running it since my awd swap back in 2014. I have none of the accessories and actuated it with a honda goldwing cruise control actuator. it worked well until recently the diaphragm started leaking and bleeding off the vacuum reservoir too quickly, and it couldn't hold them open against the return spring. This time around its getting a little bit different activation, but still equally janky and questionable (although no 90s motorcycle parts involved).

I bought one of those cheese billet wastegate actuators and started hacking. First I pulled the spring and replaced with with an old tial BOV spring, with much lighter pressure. That was good for changing the opening pressure of the gate from 15 psi to under 5 psi. It is now fully open at 5 psi. Gaining. So then I measured the approximate arc length/length of travel for the actuator, and came up with .620". The actuator was setup with a fully extended over .8" so I opened it and added some shims to get it closer. The goal here was to limit how far the actuator tries to turn the shaft to avoid undue stresses. Seems to have worked pretty well, but I need to try again getting the shim thickness correct, its still a bit off. Then the next problem was the actuator rod length, so I diassembled and removed the actuator rod from the piston. I flipped the rod over, and cut off about half of it, leaving essentially a threaded rod sticking up out of the piston. I then shortened the eyelet adapter by cutting it shorter and flattening the head in the press. Then I threaded the shortened rod into the threaded rod on the piston. Now I have a very compact, proper length travel actuator that opens fully by 5 psi. By controlling a boost line from the manifold via the same ingersoll rand solenoid I was using before, I should be able to switch the runners in link. The nice part about this is I should probably always have at least 5 psi by 4200 rpm (typical switching point I run). Sorry I dont have photos to help this all make sense... only took one of the piston and rod I mentioned... and ill stick one on there of the nearly "final" product LOL

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actuator.PNG
 
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This isn't my pic, but this is the Honda goldwing actuator I used before. works on vacuum obviously, which means you need a reservoir and a check valve (no vacuum available in manifold when typically activated). It wasn't that different than the OEM setup as far as function, but the cable drive actuator allowed me to hide the actuator on the back of the manifold before. Now I have to run it right up top (bummer)
 
Let us know if you like that manifold, I have one with all the accessories on it still, ptu, coil, tb, vacuum pot....everything that came off of the JDM motor is still with this unit. :thumb:

If I had one sitting around, I'd choose it over the stock 1g manifold every time... They say it gives up a bit on the top - idk, but you can definitely feel how much it gains through the midrange....

BC you have all the parts, it would be super easy to setup as well... the only issues would be replacing the shaft seal (same as stock TB seals, if you bought extras like I did) and making new gaskets for it. DO IT!!
 
I have it out and was cleaning it. If you need any "original" pictures, let me know Will. I will shoot them to you!
I hate to give up any top end on my setup (9k), but it is an easy swap to see how it works. Now I have a dam project..........:ohdamn: LOL
 
I scanned the gasket that survived removal, but the other half came apart in chunks. I plan to carry the manifold in to work and laser scan it. Then I can pull a cross section at the flange face and get a nice 2D line drawing for the other one.

Im still not sure if gasket paper will run thru an inkjet, but even if its just a template to overlay the gasket paper, it would be helpful.

I couldn't find a 1.5" hole punch, so ill probably make one or buy this one:

https://www.mcmaster.com/33785A42/
 
Welded a 1/8th NPT bung on the back of the plenum. Its not great spot for a map sensor because its so close to the closed off end of the plenum.... but the brake boost line had a nicely placed 1/8 BSPT port in the center of the back of the plenum, a much better spot for the map. So I ran an NPT tap through the brake booster port, and plan to run the map sensor off that port. The other port (new port) will get a new 1/8 NPT barb fitting to accommodate the brake booster hose. The brake booster wont mind a touch slower transient response, so its not losing anything moving over there.

It aint too pretty, but should function.... The fitting was biased away from the flange to ensure plenty of space if I go to a threaded map sensor in the future. I biased the drill angle and the bung didn't sit flush. A bit of a mess, but its behind the manifold and wont be visible...

20200715_003937.jpg
 
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Like a glove! The engine being bolted in place really helped...

The bar clears with less than 1mm of air-gap. Not going to run the brace.
20200718_202603.jpg


Jay Racing's kit went on smoothly. 1 belt - small water pump pulley... not great... trying to figure out other options for the water pump pulley now. I am guessing at high rpm it would be best if this was a touch bigger.

I used a 410k4 belt. I have a 2.55" 4k pulley for the alternator to keep it from over-spinning. I had to remove one of the two lock nuts on the Jay Racing tensioner to use that belt. That shortened it enough to get the belt on. I probably would try the 413k4 next time, but there isn't a huge adjustment window, so that may be too long... Regardless, I am happy with the kit

20200717_201456.jpg
 
Here are those spacers I machined for the fuel rail. Pretty simple. Way harder to measure than to cut...

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Ran the mill across the top of the letters on the manifold to get rid of any low spots.

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Also got my valve cover back from powder. No pics yet
 
Its been awhile and I think this is v3(version) . Im only running water pump,crank,and a alternator. Crank stays stockish, im using a fluid damper. Then the alt im rear mount like you, and I think its a kiggly under drive on that thats bored out for a galant 91 amp alternator.

You will have to notch the motor mount for clearance.
 
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Emailed Stevie Miller about my FF filter housing. Turns out he doesnt have one and "lost" the email thread. I guess I am getting a refund, because he doesnt have the part I paid him for. Bummer! Sour taste for sure.

Ill probably end up with a 90 filter housing if I can get my hands on one. I dont want/need an external cooler, but these parts got too hard to find apparently.

One the positive side the manifold is getting pretty close to done. I still need to complete the re-assembly and make a bracket for the actuator, but I think it looks pretty nice...

20200719_224940.jpg
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI...714361?hash=item3fdeab65f9:g:F9EAAOSwT-NefM~Q
Will, would this housing work?
I see that Performance Partout has a 1990 housing, but they are out of the FFOFH.
Trying to help.

I am not sure, I am going to research it a bit. Looks promising, thanks very much for the lead!

A 90 housing will work, and ill be able to change the oil filter, I think. It doesn't have the sandwich cooler like the 91 housing I have now, so I think that moves the filter a bit farther forward (towards front of engine). I could modify it to work without the external cooler, or just set up a damn external cooler anyway... Doesn't have to be anything special unless it has to be something special. Could make a long loop like the stock power steering cooler to avoid modifying the housing (and keep the option of fluid-to-air heat exchanger on the table for the future).

I have a lot to think about but I hope that FF housing on ebay is for a 6 bolt
 
My 90 GSX has the cooler holes plugged. I understand the sandwich plate, its a PITA on the 92.

Will, you know there is only 1 (modifiable to 2) outlet ports on a FFOFH don't you? I'll try to remember to send you a PM when I get home.
 
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I do.. I was planning to add the second port, and thats plenty for me. I dont need the oil pressure switch for the light. I also considered running my oil pressure gauge and oil feed line off a tee and run it as is. Either way its a manageable issue... Then if you want to add an aftermarket sandwich there is plenty of room for the filter to get longer, although I dont think I will need an oil cooler. Its the best choice for my setup, but the 90 isnt that bad.

I just know im not going to run this filter housing as-is after its next oil change. Ill be pulling the housing instead of the exhaust when it comes due. Hopefully ill find a FF by then, but if not, ill probably run the 90, or even just shorten the stud on this cooler and ditch the stock sandwich. I think thats an option too now that I am really thinking about it...
 
upload_2020-7-20_14-59-54.png


Here is the unknown housing on the left versus a 6 bolt housing on the right

upload_2020-7-20_15-5-54.png

And here it is against the 7 bolt housing. Unfortunately it looks like thats a 7 bolt. Its not the one you normally see though, it has a different shape and ports. I am curious about it but it wont help on this car. Thank you very much anyway for the tip
 
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Finally back together. Ill never take another cyclone apart... too much work involved in making gaskets, dealing with flat-head butterfly plate screws, the temptation to port and polish, and painting 3 separate sections. I still need to "polish" the lettering but this was after 120 grit to remove the paint.

I installed a mil-spec shaft seal (same as throttle body, lucky I had 3 left) while I had the shaft out. I also hacked apart the lever arm on the end of the shaft and modified it to accommodate my actuator. You can see the long stud welded to the lever arm. The plan is to chop it off where the threads start, and cross drill a hole for a cotter pin to retain the actuator arm to the lever arm. If that plan doesnt work out (requires some precision on the bracket that I might be too lazy for) then I will just use shims and retain it using a nut on the stud. One way or another I think I can make this work.
 
Started tacking together the exhaust to meet back up with the "cat-back". I had to use a couple 15 degree bends to clear everything coming out of the subframe area, but it was a straight shot 28.25" to the flange from there. Straight is tacked, as well as flange, but not pictured. (my garage is a huge mess!)
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Also have just about everything buttoned up under the hood. Starting to look like a car again.

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I am planning to run a 3" v-band at the TB outlet to get rid of some of the joints, but this will work for initial start-up, I just added a chopped bend and an extra coupler for now.. My IC piping is 2.5" so I found a cast aluminum reducer elbow that goes from 2.5" diameter to 3" on a 5" radius. Should be perfect to weld to the other side of the v-band, and rejoin the "short route" style piping.

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The 7 bolt "unknown" filter housing is an Evo 8-9 one by the looks of it.

For a 6 bolt you could use a non turbo filter housing, it lacks the sandwich cooler and external cooler but puts the oil filter in the same spot.

Or you could take the sandwich cooler off the stock turbo OFH, and use a threaded coupler to attach a filter.

Like so:
al3z-6890-a-2011-2017-gen-1-an_22f97a66.jpg
 
I think people also just cut the stud down to length when removing the stock sandwich cooler... but I also saw a writeup for pinning the stud to keep it from backing out. Might end up doing both while im at it.
 
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