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If you need me to see something tag me as i dont always see build threads straight away and if im tagged i see it tell me every day,
 
Crap!

The downpipe flex section rubs against Bobby's brace... I could move the flex section further back, but then the pipe would be very very close (not much better off because the pipe would move with the engine and still potentially collide). I can't move it forward because the OBX oil pan and Frontline Fab brace create a pretty narrow tunnel, and Morrison Fab already started out with the flex section moved back to accommodate those parts. I dont think I will be able to use this brace unfortunately. I will probably make something similar that works for my setup and try to sell this to someone who missed Bobby's group buy.

Only other update is I finally found a cheap source for JIS fasteners (Mcmaster - duh!?) and grabbed a few bags to replace some of the hardware store 13mm headed M8x1.25 bolts I have had to use over the years. Its really nice to get these damn 13mm's off the car and back in a bolt bin. Apparently M8 bolts have 12mm heads in the Japanese industrial standard, Sweet! I picked up some flange head JIS bolts as well.

Also found a 6 bolt forward facing oil filter housing! Stevie Miller had one and gave me a pretty decent price on it. I want to ditch this one to avoid dropping the downpipe to pull the filter off, so forward facing ensures plenty of room. Might go external someday if I run into high oil temps. I have the temp probe in the sump to keep an eye on it.
 
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Crap!

The downpipe flex section rubs against Bobby's brace... I could move the flex section further back, but then the pipe would be very very close (not much better off because the pipe would move with the engine and still potentially collide). I can't move it forward because the OBX oil pan and Frontline Fab brace create a pretty narrow tunnel, and Morrison Fab already started out with the flex section moved back to accommodate those parts. I dont think I will be able to use this brace unfortunately. I will probably make something similar that works for my setup and try to sell this to someone who missed Bobby's group buy.

Only other update is I finally found a cheap source for JIS fasteners (Mcmaster - duh!?) and grabbed a few bags to replace some of the hardware store 13mm headed M8x1.25 bolts I have had to use over the years. Its really nice to get these damn 13mm's off the car and back in a bolt bin. Apparently M8 bolts have 12mm heads in the Japanese industrial standard, Sweet! I picked up some flange head JIS bolts as well.

Also found a 6 bolt forward facing oil filter housing! Stevie Miller had one and gave me a pretty decent price on it. I want to ditch this one to avoid dropping the downpipe to pull the filter off, so forward facing ensures plenty of room. Might go external someday if I run into high oil temps. I have the temp probe in the sump to keep an eye on it.
What brand DP you using? I made my own DP so i made it as snug to the pan as i could. I already know the apexi is touching so im going to make it deeper to account for those since they much not fit as snugly.

Let me know your brand and how far it sits from the block surface if you can, (not oan as your not oem pan) im collecting data to make sure the adjustments are correct.

The clearance sifference from 4G to 420A is 12mm. Would that of been ample room to clesr your DP?
 
@ec17pse

yes, that would have been perfect actually. I am using the Morrison Fabrication downpipe from the hot parts kit that came with the manifold.

maybe ill jump on your next group buy and just pick up the 420a version. thanks for the heads up.

I can take any measurements you would like... I still have some time before the setup is done, so just let me know specifically and ill do what I can to help out..

20200707_182515.jpg
 
Okay so I wasn't thinking about this very hard... Right now the timing side engine mount is off the car... the engine sags a bit when that mount is removed in spite of the solid poly/solid aluminum mounts.

I need to recheck fitment with the engine jacked back up into final position....


upload_2020-7-7_23-33-48.png


thats roughly the extent of the interference if the red circle is the cross section of the tube. Putting the mount on might gain me a considerable amount....

I am now also considering adding about 3" of straight pipe to move the flex section back a little. I think it would clear with a decent margin if the flex section wasn't right there
 
Okay so I wasn't thinking about this very hard... Right now the timing side engine mount is off the car... the engine sags a bit when that mount is removed in spite of the solid poly/solid aluminum mounts.

I need to recheck fitment with the engine jacked back up into final position....


View attachment 605194

thats roughly the extent of the interference if the red circle is the cross section of the tube. Putting the mount on might gain me a considerable amount....

I am now also considering adding about 3" of straight pipe to move the flex section back a little. I think it would clear with a decent margin if the flex section wasn't right there
Yeah do check with all mount on the car. Morrison setup might be as snug to the oan as possible since they would want it out the way. Im assuming this is the case.

Check your end out first and i shall make a small list of checks for me
 
Sender fittings welded on! Gaining...

View attachment 604070
Will, I need to make a bigger fuel delivery system myself. What does the underside of your modified fuel pump hanger look like? I need -8 or -10 feed to try and cure a lean condition from "big pump, small lines".
Thanks for any insight!
Marty
 
@1990TSIAWDTALON

I didn't really modify anything on the bottom side too much. I chopped the lines off the top side with about 1/8" remaining sticking up off the top. They could have been ground flush, but I found it helpful to center the fittings and ensure I didnt weld the fitting over the wrong spot. The underside of the 8an is still that weird cup that accepts the tip of the fuel pump (and a couple o-rings). I have the 535lph walbro but your pump footprint should be identical. I did have to chop the barbed portion of the pump off to shorten it, as well as cut the rubber insulator on the bottom in half. The stock retainer still works - but I threw a worm gear clamp around the pump and retainer for good measure. Not sure what you did for your hellcat install, but I am sure it wasn't too different. On the 6an/return side it goes into the normal siphon tube setup (which I drilled out to 1/8" per instructions I saw floating around on this site).

If I pull the pump I can shoot more pics, but this shows the bottom (which was unchanged based on my fitting install).

I will add that it technically is a bit more restrictive than using the STM bulkhead fittings. I closely considered that option, but I couldn't justify the cost vs benefit. The restriction caused by going through the stock tube for that 1" section is going to be pretty mimimal, especially when you consider the pump's outlet isnt any bigger. Its not like it goes from large pump outlet to small tube back to larger tube. It goes from small pump oulet, thru 1" of small tube, then larger tube all the way to the rail.

This was the cheaper option, and I am very confident it will NEVER leak from having old dried up seals. That said, id recommend looking at both options...


Edit:

Also, I used the stock feed hard line as the new return. its 5/16, and its already there... just a touch smaller than 6an


I am also running a billet evo 3 fuel rail. its 8an in and 6an out. then 6an to the regulator, and 5/16 post-regulator all the way to the tank.
20200425_224119.jpg
 
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One more week until the VC is due back!

I have been trying to avoid posting an under hood picture until the VC is done... Its starting to get pretty close tho!
 
Thanks Will. Appreciate the reply and picture!
On a 1g, I have a "bell" that the FP goes into. I cut that off and used worm clamps with about 3" of fuel line to couple the pump to the outlet and yep, I used a clamp like you to hold the pump on the hanger. :thumb:.
I assume the Evo rail holds more fuel volume than a DSM rail? I am needing that also, so I am glad you mentioned it!
Marty
 
Not a problem sir, any time.

As for the fuel rail, yes it has a much higher overall volume. I didn't measure either to compare, but by eyeballing it the change is significant. The EVO 3 rail I used did not come with the proper length spacers/standoffs to mount the rail with FICs under it. I machined custom aluminum spacers to accommodate it. I really like trying to make the wrong parts work, so I am glad I did it my way, but a direct-fit rail is probably a smarter move (unless you also just want to play with something and make it work). The ends both came tapped for M16x1.5 ORB fittings, and I used copper crush washers instead of the o-rings. m16x1.5 to 8an on inlet and m16x1.5 to 6an on exit to regulator.

I got all my fittings, hoses and most of the adapters from www.anhosefittings.com

I can't recommend them enough. Their nylon braided hose is e85 safe and super easy to work with. I also used their 5/16" viton fuel hose on the return side. All their fittings are lifetime warranty. My only suggestion is to combine as many parts into one order as possible, after $150 the discount goes to 30% and the prices get really reasonable.

If anyone ever has specific questions, pic requests, part number inquiries, please feel free to ask. I am happy to help, but see * below. LOL
 
You are TOO a reliable source Will and we are lucky to have you on here! ROFL
 
You are TOO a reliable source Will and we are lucky to have you on here! ROFL

If anything I am going to be honest. I may not always be right, but when I don't know, I try my best to keep my mouth shut and ears open. As for the * signature note, I have mixed feelings about the reliability of the information I spread. If I do something stupid on my project and it results in an engine fire, I likely knew and understood the risks going into it. If someone uses the information I provide without regard to the risk, I would feel terrible (and partially responsible) if I found out they had issues. For example, its a tough situation when people ask me for details on my electric power steering mod. On one hand I have virtually-zero fear of issue as a result of the modifications, but steering is fundamentally too important to the safe function of the vehicle to suggest anyone take my advice.

I wish I spent more time on here learning from all the amazing information being shared. This place is special, and we are all lucky to have it!
 
Will, I need to make a bigger fuel delivery system myself. What does the underside of your modified fuel pump hanger look like? I need -8 or -10 feed to try and cure a lean condition from "big pump, small lines".
Thanks for any insight!
Marty

I think you could get away with 8an. Unless you have plans to go really crazy... or if it just works easier with the setup you are planning. I was going to stay with 6an (1/16" larger than stock) but changed my mind at the last minute. Didn't Kel push some crazy numbers though the stock hard lines? I was planning to until I mucked up the threads on the stock rubber feed hose at the tank. I was facing the issue of buying parts to band-aid it back together or redo the whole thing. Those darn female bubble flare m14-to-6ans aren't cheap, so I decided the money would be better spent on more "future-proof" parts. Ended up spending more, but I dont feel like ill have to upgrade again, so none of it was wasted on a short-term fix.
 
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Kevin Jewer has posted some information about this recently on Facebook. What he, and many of us, have found is that small feed/big injector setups can cause fuel pulsation issues. For example, my car goes lean from 3-4k. The only thing he has found that fixes this is 8-10an feeds with 10an being the best. I’m just summarizing Kevin’s results that include my car.
 
@Vegas smith

interesting, ill have to go check that out. That is who I was planning to ask about remote tuning at some point. Were your lean issues on the stock feed line, 6an, or 8an?

thanks for mentioning this, I dont get on facebook enough
 
Stock and 6an. Only 8an and above seems to fix it.

Well damn, I am pretty happy I decided to bump to 8an. I had all the parts in my cart to do 6an... I am sure there are a ton of factors like volume of the fuel rail, return line sizes, and length of hose between rail and regulator (well the volume of fuel it holds anyway).

Does Kevin post that stuff on his personal account or shop account, or what? I do want to hear what he has to say...
 
Well damn, I am pretty happy I decided to bump to 8an. I had all the parts in my cart to do 6an... I am sure there are a ton of factors like volume of the fuel rail, return line sizes, and length of hose between rail and regulator (well the volume of fuel it holds anyway).

Does Kevin post that stuff on his personal account or shop account, or what? I do want to hear what he has to say...
https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/fuel..._o9zCVf2LgaqA6GRz6eYGicPcnR_JI_B8j62Q6cVqJFQ0
 
^ That's exactly what I was imagining. More volume = better pulse damping. The bigger rail, and 8an feed should help. Hopefully I wont run into issues, but I am not 100% opposed to Tee-ing in a dead-head hose on the return. It could be done somewhat tidy if it becomes necessary. I run a fuelab 818 style filter. China housing with fuelab element. 8an in and out. The Chinese housings accommodate the brand name elements perfectly.*

I really appreciate the link!
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XKFLXB/ref=dp_prsubs_1 - this is the one I ended up running. I think it is holly/aeromotive style actually... It has 6/8/10 and they are interchangeable. Might be nice if you are concerned that 8 might be a problem down the line (edit: NM if your going straight to -10). I cut one leg off the included bracket and mounted it in the factory location (roughly). Ill get a pic if the crazy rain ever lets up...

This is the fuelab style I think (818). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HK3VY85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Both use the same elements.This one is better looking, less the logo, but it comes with a lower quality clamp thats harder to make work, and didn't have the option to switch to 8 (like i recently did on this car).On this one you have to choose 6/8/or 10 at time of purchase. I think that's why I returned it, it was nearly a year ago and I am not sure honestly. I do remember the housing fit the element though.
 
Started to dissect the cyclone manifold. I decided I want the manifold repainted and ill throw a shaft seal in the butterfly shaft while I am at it. I knew already the gaskets for these are long gone, so I am going to try my best to make my own set. I have a good set of gasket punches at work to help out. I was thinking maybe I could run this gasket paper material through my inkjet and print the template onto the gasket to aid in cutting, i doubt its worth the effort.

20200709_202030.jpg


I also have been debating doing a bit of porting while I am in there... The plenum is really pretty smoothly cast on the inside, and has nicely radiused runner entries. The other two runner parts have some minor parting lines on the inside, and minor casting flaws, but nothing I think would hurt me too badly. I could try smoothing them up, but for the time/benefit I am electing to leave it alone.

Another issue is adding a port for the MAP sensor on the back of the plenum, to allow a nice short and direct routing to the sensor. I have some 1/4" npt female bungs, but would prefer 1/8" npt because both would work for a hose barb fitting for now (Omni4bar) but 1/4" npt would require an adapter if I ever had to step up to an AEM 5 bar - which has 1/8 NPT threads. Ill probably just make a 1/8 NPT bung with some round bar and a tap.
 
Well shit, eating my words again.

20200712_035159.jpg


I just couldn't leave well enough alone... Here I am 94% done with the 80 grit 1st stage and realized I probably should have taken a few "before" photos. Oh well... Ill do some before and after on the other sections.

The top left port is a good example of "before". There is some factory machining to blend the bore, but I smoothed them out and corrected casting flaws as I went. On the left side of the port I haven't done yet, you can see a ridged parting line, fun stuff, and the reason this takes so damn long! I still have to do that last one, then go back over them all with 100, then 120. I dont expect to spend too much time on the next couple stages. This treatment on all 3 manifold sections should accomplish what I was shooting for (keeping my hands busy until my parts come from Mitsu).
 
One section done...
20200712_162219.jpg


not a lot to do on the plenum, but ill polish it a bit.. why not. The hard part is the head section with the butterflies. I still need to pull the shaft out.. the casting is the roughest at the head interface, so ill feel good about cleaning that up.

The head section will also get port matched to the fel pro gasket, same as the head was done in 2007. I ran a matched 1g intake for years, but never bothered matching this thing when I got it. I knew it was going to be this much work....
 
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