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2G Tubular adjustable suspension parts for the entire chassis. Tubular subframes

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ec17pse, mann, the time you put into our platforms and spend on trying to improve it all is astounding. I don't see you every giving up on these cars honestly and that's just amazing. The level of commitment here is A+

I read through this thread numerous times and thought about how grateful we are to have a member like you, but never once even considered mentioning it. I think it should be said though. These are the things, of course, that keep people going. Seriously, keep it up man :thumb:

And Bravo! I can't wait to some day be apart of one of your group buys.
Very nice of you to say those words. Thank you

I like to be different and if i can make it my own i certainly will try and give it a good go. Yes i get stuck and very annoyed sometimes with what i want to do but its part of learning to develop and R&D.

As you say i likely wont leave this platform. I have started to look i to discontinued items now also to keep these going longer and where i can make them nicer to never rust or ease of use.
 
Shoot, if they wouldn’t be too expensive, I’d be down for a set. Why not? Cuz eye candy!!
Never thought of making arb brackets as a single item but i could look into it LOL. Was never my original idea though
 
Hey all thats watching.

I have a few days off and decided to use them to go into work and do some subframe work. This one is going to be a fresh build and then final check on the chassis to make sure my build layout works and i can mimic the last one good. Then i can fully weld it and get this thing on for trials and testing (well once the car moves again on its own power of course)

While i was making this i had a thought that i would like to ask you all if you dont mind and your opinions.

Its a simple thing really. TIG weld vs cost! Let me explain

Tig welding is as some of you know alot longer process in general so when i do get to offer these out would you all prefer them

A...... fully tig welded for looks (higher price)
Or
B..... Mig welded (lower price) due to being faster process, will be neat but not as neat as tig is.

I guestimate mig welding i could weld it all in about 2 hours or less.
Tig welding would be about 7 hours.

My rear subframe which is far less intricate took me 3-3.5 hours to weld with moving around and jig flipping etc etc.

So yeah i would really like your thoughts please. I am happy to tig weld it all but the costs would be alot higher for the time and im only thinking of you guys and trying to save you all money where i possibly can

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I finally get to say “As a Welding Engineer...”!

MIG is fine and the extra few ounces of weld metal can be offset by the driver using the bathroom before a race. The efficiency gain is well worth it and the weld strength is the same as TIG.
Haha i bet you loved to say that.

I also agree mig welds are perfectly fine but they dont always looks as pretty as tig welds sure but they make the process faster and can help in different ways.

It wont be much difference in weight but the speed at making 1 will be much better and i can charge less for less time and pass those savings onto everyone
 
IF you make these after me finally finding mine, I will kick you in da nuts. Just a joke...
I will wear a box in case!

But you could always swap over to mine
 
!@#@!$%$#@!. It took me years to get this one... Rrrr. Upper arms and front toe eliminator kit .. is what I'm wait for now... When i die im getting buried in this car.
 
But on a serious note. Why not make it a option? Along with powder coat. Raw vs coated.
It will be coated in various colors they have in stock as its a 1 per order,

As for the welding. Perhaps i could do that
 
MIG sounds good. I'm really looking forward to seeing a closer finished one!

Also after powdercoating I think it may be hard to tell anyway?
 
I am not extremely knowledgeable with welding. But is doing mig vs tig affect the strength of it? If mig was just as durable, I would also be ok with it as it would be cheaper. It doesn't have to be pretty since its not something many people see. Do you have pricing estimates yet?

For powder coating, I would be ok with ordering it raw. I would just paint it black myself. But if you were thinking about offering it, I would choose black as it's a good overall color. Plus our stock ones are black.

I really cant wait till this is up for sale. No one else offers it.
 
I am not extremely knowledgeable with welding. But is doing mig vs tig affect the strength of it? If mig was just as durable, I would also be ok with it as it would be cheaper. It doesn't have to be pretty since its not something many people see. Do you have pricing estimates yet?

For powder coating, I would be ok with ordering it raw. I would just paint it black myself. But if you were thinking about offering it, I would choose black as it's a good overall color. Plus our stock ones are black.

I really cant wait till this is up for sale. No one else offers it.
In general both mig and tig are both strong. The chassis i build at work are all mig welded and the stratos cars sometimes get rally raced so they are plenty strong enough.

In general its theory is 1 tonne of tear loading per inch of weld as a rule. But its likely ro be alot more then that. I mean we can go for days about in depth welding as a whole but i dont and cannot learn it all to the core or i wont remember anything else LOL

I love tig welds myself, ways have done but now im building stuff for this market i know cost is always an issue and thats why im suggesting this routeas a cost saving option for welding. Fit up / mock up still hase the same time and process if metal behaves and does what i ask of it so saving a good lets estimate 5 hours saving of welding time, that will help the end goal on price for the end user.

As for price estimate i dont know as im for ever altering bits and having new bits made but this one i am doing now should be the last revision for the frame itself! Well i say this but minus 1 bit! (Follow later for the question) Then the options on lower bracing and cross member will be all options on top and various styles but yet to get to this stage till the frame is complete.
 
@ec17pse if you want me to host a class on arc physics of MIG vs. TIG let me know! The amount of useless knowledge I have about welding is being squandered, haha :)
Nah your perfectly good their. Lol
 
Another good day on my day off on this frame.

All the items a part from the rear engine mount (question on this at the bottom of the post) please read.

Got the new revised spaced rack mount on and jigged up so its more precise going from pre jig to jig. Jig also got altered for this new version.
Rack is all level and distanced from the front and back so it sits central and not on the wonk.

This one is pretty much ready to tack some more places and remove to test fit again. This maybe a few weeks away currently though so bear with me on this.

I already have to adjust 2 bars on the over tube thats above the rack (links the front to back) they are a few degrees off level. Its actually not an issue but when on full lock and raising the tie rod end it touches the tie rod rubber bellow and although the oem frame does this also i know i can gain a bit more height / space by moving this up some. To get it to mimic what i did by hand would likely never ever happen but i want to make sure. Other then that everything else mounts all ok and just fine.

A few pics of the progress today for you all
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The question i have is about the rear engine mount/roll stop.

I had planned to make it fixed to the frame either via alloy inserts for a stiffer mount or a poly mount. but i was wondering if it might be more ideal to either

A.. have a rod end vertical for the oem mount thats on the engine

Or

B.. have the rod end in a way that i can make it mount directly to the engine with a new bracket design and this could loose some extra weight and bulk but the option is going to add some cost to it.

Some pics to roughly show and idea on it but it may differ, the forces i have to take into considerstion if i mount it to the engine directly and that may twist things or pull so i have to make sure the design is ok to do a direct approch.

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I personally would like option A.keep the vibration down a bit.
Roger that, i thought this might be a factor to account for since some liked the idea of nylon anti damping or rubber washers for a small bit of relief.

I was told though not long ago the evos are solid mounted to the chassis from factory and they dont get complaints of chassis vibration/noise. So i wonder why we do? Could be the suspension arm setup vs what we got that makes a difference
 
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Do you have an idea for a price range yet? Or group buy? I am very interested as well.
Not yet as im still collecting all the bits and changing things up but after this one is fully built i shall have a good idea of whats needed. Then i have to figure out shipping LOL
 
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