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2G Guys, I couldn't stay away and it isn't even my fault...

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doubleclutch

10+ Year Contributor
830
175
Jun 26, 2009
Canton, Michigan
So by making a sarcastic joke, i ended up being gifted a keyless, titleless 2ga GSX manual in copper mica pearl. I haven't even gotten it home yet, but from what i can tell, other than a small part of a strut tower and some interior surface rust, it is rust free and the body is straight. It has sat for 11 years and no idea if it runs. Supposedly he "blew it up" and then parked it, but that could mean a lot of different things. From what i could recognize, it has a br 20g greddy intercooler piping, fpr, cast manifold with external wastegate, maf intake adapter, boost controller, injectors, and some exhaust that has stock tips but definitely isnt stock. Inside is modly,but all in tact including factory floor mats. No idea what i am going to do with it yet other than see what shape it is in and if it will run. I definitely needs some work, but could be a solid car with only 75k miles on the dash.

Suprisingly, the wife isn't mad about it, but i may have to sell my turbo Miata to keep it if i want to.

Tell me what i am missing in the pictures! Tell me what you think i should do first! I have a pretty good idea, but more ideas never hurt.
 

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All right, I officially own the car!

Fuel pump is in and I tried starting it, but no go. I think the fuel is just too old. I siphoned out as much as i could, (4 gallons) by opening up both sides of the saddle and pumping it out with a hand pump.

Should be able to get fresh gas in it tonight and give it a go!
Weak. Wake me up when it dynos at 850awhp on low boost.
 
Weak. Wake me up when it dynos at 850awhp on low boost.

That's just plain cold Vegas.

Here i was thinking i was saving DSM car culture as we know it by resurrecting a paperweight and you have to go do that.
 
So did you say how much you paid for it? Or how much dis you pay it for it?
Great find by the way!!
If I could drag it out, it was mine.

I got wheels and tires back on it. New fuel pump is in and new plugs. Found out it has Rc racing 550s in it. Reset the Safc to what i think is correct. Still can't get it to fire. Its trying to run, but just won't stay lit.

Has spark of some kind
Appears to be in time (cams line up, screwdriver in cylinder 1 is at the top when cams line up, mark on the under drive pulley is lined up.
Old plugs were wet after cranking, afpr shows some pressure, not sure how much, needle is a bit weird
Firing order is correct for 2ga (4123 front left to right on coil pack)
I drained 4 gallons of old fuel and added 5 gallons of fresh fuel ( I have to think at least half the fuel is fresh)
A few puffs of white smoke came out the exhaust at some point, so it can't be plugged? (wonder why it was white)

Next steps I think is a compression check and swapping out the injectors for some stock ones i have. Maybe one or more are bad? Thoughts anyone?

Honestly, once this thing is running, I will probably sell it. It needs quite a bit and i just don't have the time or energy right now.

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First off this is exactly the type of "barn find" that is really worth it. To top it all off, you got a full-extras, highest trim, extremely rare version of the 2G. Just the VIN plate saying "DSM" says it all. Bigger vented rear brakes, LSD, EPROM ECU, perforated leather seats.... The whole shebang, as others have pointed out. And all that for FREE?!

As someone who's gone through this exact thing, my biggest advice is DON'T be tempted to get it up and running as it currently stands. If you're planning on keeping it forever, pull the motor and do yourself (and the car) a favor by doing a standard rebuild. You have no idea how the car was treated before, how well it was maintained and when the last oil change and cambelt was done. Even so, sitting for so many years can cause cars to age in very different ways. These aren't old 70's V8s that just need some fuel poured down the carbs to fire it up after sitting for 50 years. It's also not a 1980 Peterbilt with a Detroit 60 in it that doesn't care if it sat for 1 year or 100 years. It'll fire right up and pull another east-west coast load while making Bandit proud.

What I'm trying to say is, in the long term, it would be cheaper to do a rebuild right now than 1 month later when it spins the bearings and throws rods. Alternatively, if you're planning to sell it right away, I'd just leave it as it is. Say it sat for 11 years and you're unsure if the motor is in good shape. It already looks clean enough to attract a lot of potential buyers.
 
How was the process to get a title for it? I've heard it being done, but don't really know what it entails.
 
First off this is exactly the type of "barn find" that is really worth it. To top it all off, you got a full-extras, highest trim, extremely rare version of the 2G. Just the VIN plate saying "DSM" says it all. Bigger vented rear brakes, LSD, EPROM ECU, perforated leather seats.... The whole shebang, as others have pointed out. And all that for FREE?!

As someone who's gone through this exact thing, my biggest advice is DON'T be tempted to get it up and running as it currently stands. If you're planning on keeping it forever, pull the motor and do yourself (and the car) a favor by doing a standard rebuild. You have no idea how the car was treated before, how well it was maintained and when the last oil change and cambelt was done. Even so, sitting for so many years can cause cars to age in very different ways. These aren't old 70's V8s that just need some fuel poured down the carbs to fire it up after sitting for 50 years. It's also not a 1980 Peterbilt with a Detroit 60 in it that doesn't care if it sat for 1 year or 100 years. It'll fire right up and pull another east-west coast load while making Bandit proud.

What I'm trying to say is, in the long term, it would be cheaper to do a rebuild right now than 1 month later when it spins the bearings and throws rods. Alternatively, if you're planning to sell it right away, I'd just leave it as it is. Say it sat for 11 years and you're unsure if the motor is in good shape. It already looks clean enough to attract a lot of potential buyers.

Unfortunately i don't have the time or energy right now to do a full restoration. My goal was to get it running and maybe go for a drive, and then sell it. It is a cool car and lots of people are very interested, but i simply don't have the time with two little kids.

How was the process to get a title for it? I've heard it being done, but don't really know what it entails.

Should be easy. *should*. I filled out the proper paperwork, but that wasn't sufficient. I had to bring in my wife's uncle's mom, (where the car was left) transfer it to her (pay the fees) then wait for the title to show up, have her sign it, then go back in and transfer it to me (pay fees again). Basically with something like this you are at the mercy of the SOS agent, which we know what a crap shoot that is.
 
Update:
Compression 165-165-155-165
Coil back ohms out good
Plug Wires ohm out good
Coolant temp sensor ohms out good
All plugs are wet to a varying degree
 
Sometimes they get busted up when people do timing jobs or the wiring gets hurt. I’d measure continuity from the crank and cam sensors to the ecu plugs to see if you got an electrical connections. If the power transistor plug is messed up it will stop the car from starting to
 
Sometimes they get busted up when people do timing jobs or the wiring gets hurt. I’d measure continuity from the crank and cam sensors to the ecu plugs to see if you got an electrical connections. If the power transistor plug is messed up it will stop the car from starting to

PTU is on my list, but it is a pain to check with the power sources and light bulb and stuff. If the PTU was bad, would it get any spark at all?
 
I’ve never actually seen a bad transistor it’s usually the wiring or plug got dinged. Pretty sure it won’t spark if there’s a problem there
PTU checked out ok.

Starting to think I need to pull the ECU
 
Guys,
How screwed am I?

If the walk isn't that bad, can the thrust bearing be replaced or is it basically full teardown?
 

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Eh, you can't really diagnose crankwalk just by that sensor and how much it's ground off alone. I mean, the trigger plate might be slightly bent. Or from the thermal expansions and whatnot it gets bigger and maybe bends just enough as to contact the plastic housing on the sensor and eat away at it. A bad or worn harmonic balancer pulley can also cause that end of the crank to vibrate and 'jump around' a lot more which would also lead to this.
 
Eh, you can't really diagnose crankwalk just by that sensor and how much it's ground off alone. I mean, the trigger plate might be slightly bent. Or from the thermal expansions and whatnot it gets bigger and maybe bends just enough as to contact the plastic housing on the sensor and eat away at it. A bad or worn harmonic balancer pulley can also cause that end of the crank to vibrate and 'jump around' a lot more which would also lead to this.

I'm guessing this can definitely cause a no start? I Need to find a dial indicator to check play. Clutch does feel weird and doesn't always return, but the car did sit forever. I tried to move it around with a prybar and didn't really see any movement.The balance shaft was deleted, maybe they bent to fins when they pulled the belt off.
 
I'm guessing this can definitely cause a no start? I Need to find a dial indicator to check play. Clutch does feel weird and doesn't always return, but the car did sit forever. I tried to move it around with a prybar and didn't really see any movement.The balance shaft was deleted, maybe they bent to fins when they pulled the belt off.
Yeah, definitely won't start with a bad crank sensor.

You can try bleeding the clutch, sounds like it needs some fluid and a bleeding. Any leaks on the slave or the master cylinder?
 
Don't have an indicator handy, but this sure seems like more than 0.0098"

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