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2G Auto to manual

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GregoryRyan

Supporting Member
167
113
Jul 22, 2013
Millstadt, Illinois
I am in the final stages of converting my 1995 Eagle Talon auto over to a 5 speed. All of the threads Ive dug through do not cover these topics so I figured Id post here to elicit help from members that may have already solved it in hopes to help members in the future.

First, after eliminating the auto shifter assembly and cables there is still on cable left that seems to run from the ignition to the shifter assembly itself. This cable seems to drive the key lock and simply pushing the cable in manually allows me to remove the key. Is this what every member who has done an auto to manual have to deal with or is there a better option for me to eliminate the cable? Do I need to mess with the ignition? I have pictured the cable below...
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Second is dealing with the engine harness and the abnormal amount of plugs I have that visually and physically speaking have no male connector to go with. As far as I can see aside from the speed sensor, the large plug with 3x3 rows of wires that I need to splice two together, the temp sensor, a few grounds and what appears to be the IAC plug all the other sensors can just be...eliminated? I don't mind back tracking the harness and eliminating the sensors that aren't needed but I wanted to make sure before I do. I also do plan to mock everything up and get the car running before this but wanted to potentially lean on someone else that did NOT simply want to just zip tie the unneeded connectors up and away and spent the time cleaning the harness up as needed. I have pictured the remaining plugs I have sitting, please disregard the large plug on the left that I do kmow has the wires for my reverse lights (TBD) and the two wires that will allow my car to run that need to be spliced.

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If you made it this far I truly appreciate your time and patience.
 
For your first problem, open up the bottom of the ignition lock cylinder and remove that cable completely. The only reason it was there was to prevent you from starting the car in gear.

Your other problem I cannot relate to. I ended up sourcing a manual harness. It was much easier to do this than tear open my auto harness.

Hope it helps
 
If I were to source a manual harness is there differences between let’s say a manual spyder harness vs. non spyder? Or a 95 manual harness vs. 99?
And yes that very much helps @IHeartMyHonda I appreciate the response.
 
If I were to source a manual harness is there differences between let’s say a manual spyder harness vs. non spyder? Or a 95 manual harness vs. 99?
And yes that very much helps @IHeartMyHonda I appreciate the response.
Spyder to coupe doesn't make a difference, nor does AWD to FWD. 95-96 was different from 97-99 because of the cam sensors. Cars with California emissions were also different. From what I can tell, the quickest way to tell a Cali harness from a 49-state harness is where the wiper motor plug is. (Cali has the plug in the on the wiper motor vs in the engine bay.) Other differences are where the evap solenoids are, and whether it has a fuel tank pressure sensor.

In reality, if you find any manual 2g turbo harness, you can use it if you don't mind swapping over a couple of plugs.
 
Alright thanks. I’m weighing on whether or not I should just cut back the harness and solder/butt connector and shrink the unneeded connectors out of the harness or source a manual harness. My current harness has a decent amount of broken connectors so a new (old but new to me) harness may be the better option in the long run. Thanks again for the help, these little things just aren’t covered when doing these conversions.
 
@GregoryRyan no problem. I kinda had to figure that stuff out for myself too. I have a manual harness sitting in my garage if you'd like to try it. It's missing cam and crank sensor connectors, so I'd let it go cheap. But the rest of it is in really good shape.
 
The harness includes the fuse box and wraps all the way around over to the alternator side of the bay as well correct? If so initially looking at it it seems like a hefty amount of work to swap the harness. Cutting back and capping the wires in the main harness SEEMs like a fairly straight forward task. Seems like I am at a crossroads where I need to make this choice fairly soon.
 
The harness includes the fuse box and wraps all the way around over to the alternator side of the bay as well correct? If so initially looking at it it seems like a hefty amount of work to swap the harness. Cutting back and capping the wires in the main harness SEEMs like a fairly straight forward task. Seems like I am at a crossroads where I need to make this choice fairly soon.
No, you don't need that part. Just the engine harness half.
 
I did an auto to manual swap over the winter and left all of those connectors you took pictures of disconnected. They are strictly for the auto trans. My car runs fine. It is a bit difficult to tuck them neatly out of sight though.
 
Yeah @91dsm I am going to mock things up this weekend to ensure I have everything I need and then cut back the harness and eliminate them. The rats nest of wires already in this engine back triggers my OCD already, having unused plugs just dangling there would keep me up at night.
 
Yeah @91dsm I am going to mock things up this weekend to ensure I have everything I need and then cut back the harness and eliminate them. The rats nest of wires already in this engine back triggers my OCD already, having unused plugs just dangling there would keep me up at night.

It definitely bothers me seeing them there. I have them tied out of sight for now. Ill eliminate them later as well.
 
Well I decided to pull the harness and remove the unused connectors...

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Regarding the large 3x3 connector that I am supposed to loop the middle outside wires together, I believe that the reverse switch wires include one of those wires correct?

Looks like:
Wires 2 and 3 get wired together to get the car to start
Then for reverse lights I need to wire 1 and 2 to the reverse switch? Confirmation on this would be awesome!

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Last edited:
@91dsm and @IHeartMyHonda do either of you have any insight to my above question in post #12?

I never bothered to wire up the reverse lights so I cant help you there. I didn't have any luck connecting those wires in the loom to get the car to start either. It just sounded like it was grounding out when I turned the key. I bypassed the starter relay instead.
 
I have converted my 95 GSX to manual as well, and like others, I just swapped out the engine harness. I had several spares anyway, so for me it was worth the hassle of fishing the harness out through the firewall. I likewise just removed the cable from ignition to shifter. It is no longer needed. Since you have the harness out already, if you want to swap the harness to a manual harness, send me a PM.
 
Thanks for the responses guess I’ll keep digging and see if I can confirm these reverse lights. I may have to debug this myself since most seem to have bypassed the reverse lights all together.
 
I never bothered to wire up the reverse lights so I cant help you there. I didn't have any luck connecting those wires in the loom to get the car to start either. It just sounded like it was grounding out when I turned the key. I bypassed the starter relay instead.

How did you bypass the starter? Just for information purposes
 
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