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2G 6 bolt auto trans in a 2g

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jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,410
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I know kiggly sells a kit for this. However is it really needed? They say it destroys pumps. I dont want to risk it. I have multiple starter plates laying around. I only have the 2g flex plate. I still need the pilot bearing.

But is the kit needed or could I make my stuff work? I just dont know what is different.
 
Hi, firstly to answer your question could you clarify what is going into what?
 
Hi, firstly to answer your question could you clarify what is going into what?

I have a 6 bolt motor that I am putting on my 2g auto trans going into my 2g.

I have used a manual trans before on my 6bolt 2g. But the autos use a pilot bushing. I just dont know if I need the kiggly kit or will the other parts work.
 
The holes on the flex plate wont line up nor will the starter plate. I bought the kiggly racing conversion kit and the first thing i noticed was how strong the flex plate was, so that was a good start plus the bushing was in the kit which i followed Johns advice from IPT and turned it around and sanded it down somewhat. The other thing about the flex plate is it allows you to add extra bolts to your converter to strengthen the attachment.
 
The holes on the flex plate wont line up nor will the starter plate. I bought the kiggly racing conversion kit and the first thing i noticed was how strong the flex plate was, so that was a good start plus the bushing was in the kit which i followed Johns advice from IPT and turned it around and sanded it down somewhat. The other thing about the flex plate is it allows you to add extra bolts to your converter to strengthen the attachment.

What was the reason for sanding it? Our torque converter doesnt use the 8 holes only 4. I was looking into buying a better converter but car is street driven.

The directions for the kit show a diagram using the flexplate washer. But the holes do not line up for my to use my 7 bolt washer. I have read multiple posts saying the kit comes with everything I need. Do I need this washer? If so, what's the part number?
 

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The washer just helps spread the load. Make sure that the bolts you use don't interfere with the rear main seal housing or are too long and hit the block at the oil pan flange. You will need to trim the "wings" of the 6 bolt rear main housing so the flywheel bolts won't hit it. They can be ground down to clear while on the motor.
 
The washer just helps spread the load. Make sure that the bolts you use don't interfere with the rear main seal housing or are too long and hit the block at the oil pan flange. You will need to trim the "wings" of the 6 bolt rear main housing so the flywheel bolts won't hit it. They can be ground down to clear while on the motor.

Do you know a part number for the washer thing? There is no mention of it on the site. If it's not needed then I wont use it. Does that washer have anything to do with the spacing that could damage the pump?
 
Yes it does have something to do with the STOCK flexplate. They have a washer on BOTH sides of the flexplate so that the pump engages correctly with the converter. The kiggly plate is thicker so the inside washer isn't used. I did this to my 92 less than 6 months ago, and that is how I did it, like your picture shows plus trimming the rear seal housing ears. I now trim ALL my 6 bolt rear main housings since I don't know if they will be using a Kiggly plate, stock or standard trans.
 
Yes it does have something to do with the STOCK flexplate. They have a washer on BOTH sides of the flexplate so that the pump engages correctly with the converter. The kiggly plate is thicker so the inside washer isn't used. I did this to my 92 less than 6 months ago, and that is how I did it, like your picture shows plus trimming the rear seal housing ears. I now trim ALL my 6 bolt rear main housings since I don't know if they will be using a Kiggly plate, stock or standard trans.

Also, is the stock starter plate used in conjunction with this kit? Do you happen to have pics of how much you trimmed off?

Some auto trans install questions. When installing the torque converter, you slide in on until I hear/feel 3 clicks? And what way do I turn the converter, clockwise it counter?

Also, I have been told that it is near impossible to install motor and trans together. Since I have both out of the car, should I install the trans and then the motor? Just curious what you think is easier. I have pulled a manual trans with and without the motor before. This is my first auto ever LOL.
 
Since I am a 1g, no trimming necessary on the starter plate so IDK.
The converter MUST go all three "clicks" and I always turn it clockwise. Fight it until it seats ALL THE WAY. I scribe a mark on the inside of the bellhousing to know where it was originally.
My trans was left in the car when I did the 5 pack front clutch so I just had to stab the motor. My son that has a 2g puts his trans in then the motor and says its a tight fit. Those are my observations.
Marty
 
I'm in the process of doing all of this myself right now and trying to get into the finishing stages of it. Need to go ahead and get the Kiggly stuff though. Don't wanna take a chance of ruining that pump. Jeff Bush sells the bracket needed for the intermediate shaft. I JUST paid $385 shipped for that. Hurt to the gut but I don't have to worry about the shaft not being lined up correctly now at least. Also, I'm also using Nordlock washers on my flex plate with oem bolts torqued to 130 ft/lbs with red loctite.
 
Since I am a 1g, no trimming necessary on the starter plate so IDK.
The converter MUST go all three "clicks" and I always turn it clockwise. Fight it until it seats ALL THE WAY. I scribe a mark on the inside of the bellhousing to know where it was originally.
My trans was left in the car when I did the 5 pack front clutch so I just had to stab the motor. My son that has a 2g puts his trans in then the motor and says its a tight fit. Those are my observations.
Marty

I wanted to update my own thread. I saw IPT video talking about the pilot bushing. He said to machine the lip down and install it backwards so the TC fits tighter. I did try this but for some reason I couldn't get the bushing to go on the converter. So I installed my spare the way the factory intended. Anyone have ideas on this?

Second issue I am having is with the inspection cover. It fits so tight between to oil pan and the flexplate. It is so tight that it actually rubs the flexplate. Did you guys have to trim your cover or what?

Second question is about a leak that is my fault. There is a black cover that hides a gear on the back of the trans above the diff. I dont know what that is called. But is there a part number for a gasket for this? I tried cutting my own gasket but it failed.
 
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A - test fit the pilot bushing but don't get ot stuck. before install and lube it. I like assembly lube.
B - you probably can't run the inspection plate.
C - diff cover gaaket, I'll try to find that # for you. I just had a spare trans rebuilt myself.
 
A - test fit the pilot bushing but don't get ot stuck. before install and lube it. I like assembly lube.
B - you probably can't run the inspection plate.
C - diff cover gaaket, I'll try to find that # for you. I just had a spare trans rebuilt myself.

I was actually talking about this gasket. Camera wouldn't focus but it's in the background of the axle.
 

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Oh, ok the differential cover it looks like, if I see it correctly.
 
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