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2G Intermittent Starter Crank problem

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Tsunamiguy

Probationary Member
2
0
May 28, 2016
Spokane, Washington
Been a while since I had to come back to DSMtuners, but now I have an issue that hopefully someone can shed some light on.

History: Parked my 1997 Eclipse GST for the winter, firing every so often the keep the battery from going flat. This Spring I cranked it up and the starter was spinning slowly, so I checked the date on my battery and it was due for replacement. Replaced the battery and this is when the problem began.

Original Problem: The issue presented when my starter was cranking; after a second or two of crank the starter would stop and all I could hear was the humming of the Bendix. I cycled the key and the car would start.

Solution: I figured since this was the orignal 1997 starter and solenoid I would just treat my car with a new starter. I installed the new starter, it was tested in front of me on a bench out of the box and then I even bench tested it again when I got home. Installed the starter and now I get intermittent cranking. Every time I push the key to start the Bendix comes out.

Problem solving steps I have taken:
1. Ground wires check at battery, chassis and the starter mounting bolt location. All contacts cleaned and shined for good contact.
2. Starter tested when hooked up to the solenoid wire and the positive cable before being secured on the tranny. Spins and spits out the Bendix.
3. Positive cable cleaned tested.
4. Starter relay replaced, original was not bad but I said wth since it took a while to get into the center console to check it.
5. Clutch safety switch pulled and tested, relay closes correctly and it functions as intended in both positions.
6. Anti-theft relay tested and closes correctly powered and de-powered.
7. Ignition switch replaced, as the old one was worn. The starting is now stronger, but still is intermittent.
8. All fuses and fusible links have been visually inspected and also continuity tested - that took a couple of beers to get through.

Last, I am all out of options here, I certainly don't want to roll out of the garage and get stranded. I have checked the entire starting system according to the Mitsubishi manual and all the forum threads I could find on this website.

Any suggestions or procedures that I can follow would be greatly appreciated. I love my car, and it has treated me very well for the last 18.5 years.

Very few mods under the hood: Cold-air intake, Magnecor spark wires.


Thanks
 
Im having nearly the same problem with the starter intermittently starting. Originally the problem I had was after doing pulls for a remote tune, I'd try to start the car back up and the starter would just click when I turn the key and then when it would actually engage it would drag and turn very slow. It then got to the point where it would just click more often to the point I replaced the starter. It still did the same thing so I was thinking maybe the new starter was faulty, well I got another and the issue continued. So I got a new battery and thinking everything was fine because it started, I turned the car off and it did the same thing where it just clicks as if the bendix pushes out but it doesnt spin. Just to make sure, I unbolted the starter but kept all the connections hooked up and grounded it with the bolt screwed on and it works as it should, the bendix comes out and it spins, I did this to rule out the ignition and clutch switch. I thought it may have been a bad ground so I ran the jumper cables from the battery in the trunk to the starter ground but it didnt change the outcome. What do you guys think my problem could be?
 
If it's a generic parts store starter then it's likely that it's just a piece of shit. I chased an intermittent starting issue with a "new" starter ruled out and it took me a couple years to realize it was bad from the get go. It's very common.
 
If it's a generic parts store starter then it's likely that it's just a piece of sh**. I chased an intermittent starting issue with a "new" starter ruled out and it took me a couple years to realize it was bad from the get go. It's very common.
Im just glad its not difficult to remove or I'd be a little pissed off. Once I finish working Ill return it for the 2nd time and cross my fingers I get a good one this time. smh
 
I'm on my second starter and the problem remained so I am leaning towards something random like a wire damaged or something. Its annoying as hell when you go to floss out of the parking lot and your car sounds like it might not start. not exactly the elliptical shine I needed
 
This will be the third one for me, I bought a reman from Advance Auto that made a whirring noise when it did engage and a new one from Autozone that didnt engage while installed in the car. Hopefully the this next one will be fine.

I'm on my second starter and the problem remained so I am leaning towards something random like a wire damaged or something. Its annoying as hell when you go to floss out of the parking lot and your car sounds like it might not start. not exactly the elliptical shine I needed
 
Once I bought a high quality Bosch unit the car FIRED up immediately and has never missed a beat. I would just take the loss on the re-manufactured one if it's a super cheap one.
 
Once I bought a high quality Bosch unit the car FIRED up immediately and has never missed a beat. I would just take the loss on the re-manufactured one if it's a super cheap one.
I returned it, and whats crazy is that the reman at Advance was more expensive than the "new" at Autozone. I'll give the parts store one more chance but my next step is to try a OEM reman from extremepsi. Where did you find the Bosch?
 
I returned it, and whats crazy is that the reman at Advance was more expensive than the "new" at Autozone. I'll give the parts store one more chance but my next step is to try a OEM reman from extremepsi. Where did you find the Bosch?
Advanced Auto. Best purchase I've ever made on this car. Seriously.
 
Ok, so I got another starter from Autozone and it was the same outcome. I ran another cable from the positive terminal on the battery straight to the starter, same outcome. I tried a new starter relay, same outcome. Im at a loss right now.
 
The fourth starter did the same thing, whats the likelihood it could be something going on with my flywheel? The car runs perfectly fine once started but I have to turn the key 5 to 14 times or more to get it to start cranking. Its like the bendix is not going out enough to start spinning.
 
It would have to be pretty damaged. If you have solid power and ground, and you’re getting 12v signal at the solenoid wire then it has to be the starter.
 
If you're sure you have the correct starter for your physical setup (flywheel, starter plate) and it works properly under load (like it would if your car had no electrical problems or if it was put in another similar car), then the problem has to be either the battery cannot handle the current load (not large enough capacity) OR you have a bad cable or poor electrical connections (too much resistance somewhere due to corrosion, dirt, cable internally cracked, connections not tight enough, etc).

Any large battery cable (+ or -) connection point that has even 0.1 ohm will prevent starter from operating properly. The huge current (50-100A) that flows to starter will drop too much voltage at that point leaving not enough for starter. This point may be a cable terminal (either end) that is not clean, is corroded, not tight enough, large enough, etc or a cable that has a burnt/damaged point inside. The point often cannot be found by measuring resistance because either the meter will not measure that low or the resistance changes when the large current flows, etc. The better way is to measure voltage drop ONLY WHILE CRANKING. Start by measuring battery voltage while cranking to make sure battery has enough power. Then measure voltage AT THE STARTER TERMINALS to see how much has been dropped while cranking (generally starters need 9.6v minimum while engaged to turn engine over). To find drop, measure voltage across any connection point (eg. battery terminal to battery post) and also along length of cables (literally from one end of a cable to the other end) while cranking. All these voltage measurements must be done when ignition key is in Start position (ie. while cranking or trying to crank).

Note: Since you have tried different starters, new battery, cleaned and re-tightened all terminal connections, it sounds like you may have a bad starter cable. They get brittle and develop internal cracks with age which creates a resistance and causes a voltage drop in them under the heavy current flow of a starter.
 
If you're sure you have the correct starter for your physical setup (flywheel, starter plate) and it works properly under load (like it would if your car had no electrical problems or if it was put in another similar car), then the problem has to be either the battery cannot handle the current load (not large enough capacity) OR you have a bad cable or poor electrical connections (too much resistance somewhere due to corrosion, dirt, cable internally cracked, connections not tight enough, etc).

Any large battery cable (+ or -) connection point that has even 0.1 ohm will prevent starter from operating properly. The huge current (50-100A) that flows to starter will drop too much voltage at that point leaving not enough for starter. This point may be a cable terminal (either end) that is not clean, is corroded, not tight enough, large enough, etc or a cable that has a burnt/damaged point inside. The point often cannot be found by measuring resistance because either the meter will not measure that low or the resistance changes when the large current flows, etc. The better way is to measure voltage drop ONLY WHILE CRANKING. Start by measuring battery voltage while cranking to make sure battery has enough power. Then measure voltage AT THE STARTER TERMINALS to see how much has been dropped while cranking (generally starters need 9.6v minimum while engaged to turn engine over). To find drop, measure voltage across any connection point (eg. battery terminal to battery post) and also along length of cables (literally from one end of a cable to the other end) while cranking. All these voltage measurements must be done when ignition key is in Start position (ie. while cranking or trying to crank).

Note: Since you have tried different starters, new battery, cleaned and re-tightened all terminal connections, it sounds like you may have a bad starter cable. They get brittle and develop internal cracks with age which creates a resistance and causes a voltage drop in them under the heavy current flow of a starter.

Ok that seems to be my problem. The +wire that bolts to the starter does have quite a few frayed wires. What is the best way to fix this?
 
Replace it. Get a cable that has molded terminals already on it both ends. Not one where you crimp terminals on. Crimping always vibrates loose after a while as well as invites corrosion. Remember to disconnect all battery post negative cables before replacing this positive cable.
 
Ok I'll replace that. Also, the car started fine with the battery relocated in the trunk, but could the way I have it ran cause issues as well? If so, what could I change?
 

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Well you said it had been starting ok with the battery in the trunk before so it would seem your cables are large enough and go to the right places. What have you worked on before this problem started? You may have bumped a bad cable that now has too high a resistance somewhere internally or at a terminal.

To pin it down you need to measure the voltage literally on the starter positive post itself (not a wire going to the starter post) WHILE CRANKING. An analog meter (needle readout) is easier to use if you can get one (because digital takes longer to stabilize). Do the voltage check sin my post 18.

Keep in mind that you still may have a bad new starter as all auto stores are NOTORIOUS for selling dozens of bad alts. Also engaging the starter with no load on it proves very little. Only a high torque load like turning an engine over is the real test and then it better have more than 9.6V absolute minimum AT THE STARTER while doing so.
 
I was able to remove the starter wire harness and the positive wire that connects to the starter was frayed badly. I have a new one coming so hopefully this will fix the issue.
 

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Just my $.02

Check all of your wiring connectors. Ive seen the power wires melt or fray where they are crimped to the starter and to the alternator

A random problem I had on one of my gst's was the ignition key needing to be pushed in as the key was turned forwards. If I didnt push in and turn the starter would make a half assed grindy spin noise and nothing would happen
 
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