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ECMlink MTX-L and dsmlink do not match

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jkuga

Proven Member
140
29
Feb 12, 2017
Oregon
Alright I've got my idle to a better spot. Next thing I've been working on is getting what my MTX-L gauge and what's logged in dsm like to match.
I have my wideband in the O2 housing with narrowband sim setup and connected to the rear O2.
It's hard to get an exact read on how off they are becausethe gauge moves so fast but it looks like they are from 1.00 to 0.5 afr. Sometimes the gauge is higher and some times dsmlink is.
I have tried switching from logging it as an LC-1 to linearwideband and adjusting the min and max voltage. With the engine off but the gauge on and reading afr I can get them to match by adjusting the voltage for linearwideband but once I turn the engine they are off again.
I don't even know if that is how you are supposed to get them in sync but that is what my searching found. The other possibility I is maybe my power and grounds for the gauge are not good enough causing it to read off. I have the gauge powered from the battery with a relay triggered by the cigarette lighter fuse and going into a fused power block. It's grounded to a grouding blocked hooked up to the battery. My other gauges are hooked up this way as well.
Am I adjusting it incorrectly or is the wiring cause the difference in reading or am I missing something?
 
The important wire is the ground. It should be common with ecu ground so if it’s on the negative battery cable, that is good. I didn’t have to make any adjustments as it reads what was displayed. Sorry that’s not much help though
 
The important wire is the ground. It should be common with ecu ground so if it’s on the negative battery cable, that is good. I didn’t have to make any adjustments as it reads what was displayed. Sorry that’s not much help though

Thanks, at least it confirms my wiring is good.
It took a couple videos showing the gauge and link and I paused went through it frame by frame and it's weird because they are dead on at some points. It super off at others.
I took two screen shots of the frames back to back and you can see in the one the gauge reads 16.9 vs 16.1 in link. Then the next frame shows 15.8 in both.
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Not sure this will help but try calibrating it
Recalibrated it and set it back to LC-1 in dsmlink. Took a video and check the values. It was dead on a couple times then off again by a whole 1 afr.
How quickly does your wideband change its value? Mine moves around so quickly it's almost impossible to see what it's read for more than a second. I didn't realize this when I bought it but I got the MTX-L plus which I guess is supposed to read the afr more quickly? Maybe that's why it moves so much? But it still doesn't explain the readings being off.
 
If you lock the ECU in open loop, that would make it easier to match the readings. You can set your afr at different points in dsmlink to see how far off you are and then adjust calibration accordingly. Just be careful not to run too rich for too long if you do this.
 
Oh ok will try that this afternoon.
If you lock the ECU in open loop, that would make it easier to match the readings. You can set your afr at different points in dsmlink to see how far off you are and then adjust calibration accordingly. Just be careful not to run too rich for too long if you do this.
When you say I can set the afr at different points do you mean adjust linearwideband voltage? Or change the actually afr by adjusting fuel?
 
Yes, I mean change the fuel settings to get the wideband at any afr you want, then see what it reads in dsmlink. And then you can just adjust the linear wideband preferences to get dsmlink to match with the wideband gauge.
 
Yes, I mean change the fuel settings to get the wideband at any afr you want, then see what it reads in dsmlink. And then you can just adjust the linear wideband preferences to get dsmlink to match with the wideband gauge.
Went to try this today and I realized I haven't played with link enough to figure out how to lock it in open loop. I did mess with the voltage in the lm programmer for the gauge and got them to match but the gauge was reading leaner than before.
I think the reason it doesn't match when I change the voltage for linearwideband in link is I have been changing it with the engine off but the voltage changes once I power it on maybe? Maybe I'm wrong. In any case I'll keep playing with it as this is the only reason I have found for them not matching at least with an innovate gauge.
 
Under misc you can lock in open loop. Then change maf or SD table to force the car to idle rich. I do this then set up Lin wideband so it is accurate 11-12ish. Wide open is only time I really look at the wideband readings anyway.
 
Under misc you can lock in open loop. Then change maf or SD table to force the car to idle rich. I do this then set up Lin wideband so it is accurate 11-12ish. Wide open is only time I really look at the wideband readings anyway.

I need to do some more reading on adjusting the mad as I have never done any tuning before as the car is pretty stock. I just don't understand why I set it up according to dsmlinks tutorials and it reads off.
 
I messed with the maf comp a but and did get it to idle richer but it still cycles so much it's hard to get a stable reading. I think I'll move the wideband back to the downpipe and put the stock narrowband back in while I figure this out. I checked my wiring to the ecu and made sure it was good. Not sure if that matters.
With the wideband in the ecu I get slower reading so it will be easier to adjust the voltage correctly.
Hopefully this is a good plan and works.
 
It's nice to have your WB log accurately in ECMLink through the entire AFR range on the gauge (LC1's factory defaults are 7:1 to 22:1 I believe) but not necessary. The only AFR range you (and your tuner, if that isn't you) really care about logging accuracy are from 11:1 to 14.7:1 as these are the values you're trying to tune for during WOT (open loop) operation. If you can't get it accurate running the preset LC1WB value then you'll have to use LinearWB, use this video to get it setup. I recommend doing this while you're logging the WB as an LC1WB in ECMLink first because it might be logging accurately from 11:1 to 14.7:1, so check it first. Then move on to setting up the LinearWB values if you've verified the LC1WB setting isn't accurate.

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This video shows how to do it in a car running speed density but the same applies for a setup on a MAF as well but, instead of using the VE table to force the car to go rich you'll use your MAFComp sliders by increasing the sliders at the idling frequency range of your MAF. Just be sure to set them back to where they were before so you don't change your idle fuel trims if they were tuned properly before.

Like Joe said above, don't do this for too long or else you'll wash your cylinder walls and get fuel in the oil.
 
It's nice to have your WB log accurately in ECMLink through the entire AFR range on the gauge (LC1's factory defaults are 7:1 to 22:1 I believe) but not necessary. The only AFR range you (and your tuner, if that isn't you) really care about logging accuracy are from 11:1 to 14.7:1 as these are the values you're trying to tune for during WOT (open loop) operation. If you can't get it accurate running the preset LC1WB value then you'll have to use LinearWB, use this video to get it setup. I recommend doing this while you're logging the WB as an LC1WB in ECMLink first because it might be logging accurately from 11:1 to 14.7:1, so check it first. Then move on to setting up the LinearWB values if you've verified the LC1WB setting isn't accurate.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This video shows how to do it in a car running speed density but the same applies for a setup on a MAF as well but, instead of using the VE table to force the car to go rich you'll use your MAFComp sliders by increasing the sliders at the idling frequency range of your MAF. Just be sure to set them back to where they were before so you don't change your idle fuel trims if they were tuned properly before.

Like Joe said above, don't do this for too long or else you'll wash your cylinder walls and get fuel in the oil.
Thanks for posting this. I'll have to watch the video a couple times to make sure I fully got it but it sounds like the calibrating voltage can vary across the spectrum so just changing the min or max voltage it still won't log accurately across the whole range? So I need to calibrate only 14.7 to 11.1 per the video or richer if it needs to be richer to get the correct reading to tune from the log.
I believe I have an exhaust leak most likely at the clamp in o2 bung I put on the downpipe but potentially at the O2 housing (eBay O2 housing, tried to sand the flanges flat but could still be imperfect) or manifold so if I calibrate it now would it be off again when I have those eliminated?
 
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