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rabenne's street car

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Sender fittings welded on! Gaining...

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After poorly applied paint, and reshaping the crossover tube...
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8an feed, 6an to 5/16 barb on the return so I can use the stock feed tube as the new return, and all the hose diameter should match up. FPR outlet has 5/16 barb, and so does the ethanol sensor.
 
small update: the sender didnt quite clear the access plate. There is a rolled down lip on the plate where the wiring grommet goes through, so I hammered it flat/flush and stuck the grommet back through. Fits nicely! Score!
 
Is this not the cutest little thing you have ever seen? My buddy with the cummins prius is putting that thing on his diesel lawn tractor! Should be some good shenanigans... he straight piped the lawn tractor the day he brought it home... LOL

We did some testing on the wastegate actuator and that little baby doesnt even begin to open until 16psi, and isn't fully open until nearly 20psi!

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My timing cover has a crack in the plastic, and me being nervous, I dont want to put it on like that. If it decides to start crumbling, and ends up going into the timing belt, it could spell game over. So I am throwing it away... Ordered a new GVR4 timing cover (black 6 bolt) and a 2g mid cover and backing tins to match. I am going to do the Jafromobile 1gina2g timing cover method. I paid for the expedited shipping because I dont want this to delay me too long.

Jafromobile Timing Cover Setup for 6 bolt in a 2g

MD141456 Lower Timing Cover $111.00
MD187283 Inner Cover $12.60
MD199941 Inner Cover $10.59
MD191811 Timing Cover $40.53
 
Got the oil drain setup all figured out. Looks like it will be functional!

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Also did some hacking to make the 2g Three Speed scatter shield work on my setup. I run a 1g t-stat housing and front water pipe, so the shield wasn't designed to accommodate a hose right there. With the compact fit to the block on this setup, I had to clearance the shield to get the hose past. It shouldn't hurt its function too much in the event of a disaster (knock on wood).

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Threw some flat black on it to match the brackets and other stuff under the hood. Been using this same paint for brackets long enough that its starting to look intentional... weird. LOL

Bobby's brace got a rough check to see if it would clear the extended sump on the ally pan. It looks like shes going to be tight... If you see this Bobby, what's with the new bolts? As in, what is the need/intention for including them? Just curious because I haven't tried to bolt it on yet...

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So does it have a smaller nut that fits in the tube and allow a socket in there with it? I didn't check the stock hardware, but I couldn't see why it wouldn't work when I was just eyeballing everything. So I am wondering what necessitates it. If you can be more specific, @NWHTanK it might help? @ec17pse ?
 
The hardware is just me being me and giving new bolts as opposed to the old corroded bolts etc.

With the subframe in the car you cannot get the bolt in from the trans side so you have to put it in from the back forward and the nut slips in the front tube area. (***** I have a write up on this of installation on here for everyone to follow*****)

It turns out on the AWD chassis my angles were not quite correct on the angle i added so you will need ti take a few mm off that passenger side tube by the trans. I already made a note to this and next time i do these will be adjusted to get this right.
 
@ec17pse that's what I thought man! Mine are currently setup that way, and putting them in from the other direction (as shown in @NWHTanK 's photo) would take a bunch of extra work. I'm glad that's not necessary, because you would be dropping your subframe if you want remove the lateral lower control arm... I was hoping there wasn't something I was missing, and you just decided to include some nice 12.9's with the kit to round it out. Thanks for that btw, they look like quality bolts...

I will check out the thread to see the note about the pass side before I bolt it on. Thanks buddy!
 
@ec17pse that's what I thought man! Mine are currently setup that way, and putting them in from the other direction (as shown in @NWHTanK 's photo) would take a bunch of extra work. I'm glad that's not necessary, because you would be dropping your subframe if you want remove the lateral lower control arm... I was hoping there wasn't something I was missing, and you just decided to include some nice 12.9's with the kit to round it out. Thanks for that btw, they look like quality bolts...

I will check out the thread to see the note about the pass side before I bolt it on. Thanks buddy!
Yeah my original plan was to do it that way then i found out it was not possible from the passneger side so i kept it the oem direction, even the pan side was tight getting in from the front.

Where i can i will always include nice new as strong or stronger bolts. It just makes it that much nicer as a whole.

The clearance on the passenger side is not listed in the write up. I need to add it though for now untill i make the revision on the next round
 
You are bolting inside of a tube for the control arms.

The nut and bolt head are to big to fit in the tube from factory.

Mine fits.. maybe I have the wrong (non-oem) nuts?

Yeah my original plan was to do it that way then i found out it was not possible from the passneger side so i kept it the oem direction, even the pan side was tight getting in from the front.

Where i can i will always include nice new as strong or stronger bolts. It just makes it that much nicer as a whole.

The clearance on the passenger side is not listed in the write up. I need to add it though for now untill i make the revision on the next round

Not a problem. I just went out and looked to see whats up...

Tight on the drivers side too... I'll figure it out!

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Mine fits.. maybe I have the wrong (non-oem) nuts?



Not a problem. I just went out and looked to see whats up...

Tight on the drivers side too... I'll figure it out!

View attachment 604311 View attachment 604312
Thats a good amount of room on the pan so thats safe, i wanted enough room for when the engine moves and twists as the pan will engine will rotate forwards so the pan moves backwards. That was what i was trying to do to be safe on clearance.
 
By the looks of it , it still looks like a pain to get a tool in thier to tighten up. So either engine raised up or subframe lowerd a bit to gain access. I just prefer the bolt to be locked in front to back, if the nut backs off for any reason it won't come all the way out. But it will make just allitle more difficult to set alghment.
 
To each his own... I really dont want to drop the subframe to service control arms/ball joints, so I might be stuck trimming to get a tool in. It's not the end of the world dropping the subframe, but why not give it a shot first. If I cant make something that fits then I dont deserve my job title! Lol

Bobby, I have aluminum roll stops and poly sides. Movement should be minimal, but I'm glad you brought it up. I had not considered that, honestly. I like it tho! Just some minor tweaking and I can torque 'er down!
 
I know a solution to this. Weld a nut inside the cup... ?¿¿¿?

I like your thinking, but it would be a pita with the powder coat and all... Might end up there anyway. Either way ill be exposing some of the mild steel, so it has to be re-coated in the bare spots at minimum. That probably means ill just be painting the whole thing wrinkle black LOL.

I also thought about adding a leg to the nut similar to the subframe studs into the body. Or somewhat similar to a j-nut I suppose. They are free to move around, but have a leg that keeps them from spinning in their pockets. Something like that could probably be done... It looks like with some grinding and the right length socket it might be doable as well.

Ill probably start with the idea of welding a leg on the nut, and see if that will do it.
 
Once the nut grabs on the locking spring it will not spin and be ok to do up, if it needs a little assistance then a small flat head in the nut area helps.

I did not want to weld a nut on anytbing as if it strips its easy to replace seperate then one thats welded so i think about those small details also, i know if you strip a nut its not my problem but i make it as much of a problem for me as if i was buying it and i had that issue.
 
Once the nut grabs on the locking spring it will not spin and be ok to do up, if it needa a little assistance then a small flat head in the nut are helps.

I did not want to weld a nut on anytbing as if it strips its easy to replace seperate then one thats welded so i think about those small details also, i know if you strip a nut its not my problem but i make it as much of a problem for me as if i was buying it and i had that issue.

That would work fine for sinching it up if I can get it ran down far enough to start locking up, but when I go to remove it, as soon as the bolt tension is removed, the lockup goes away, and the bolt and nut would just spin. I would at minimum need to be able to hold the nut to get the bolt threaded in or out until the lock spring starts to hold it. That could be something fairly simple, but I am going to explore other options to make things easier on myself in the future.


edit: Bobby, you are right, a screwdriver works just fine to hold it until it snugs up, and fine for removal as well. Not that tricky, so I will probably just confirm it will be okay when the motor shifts and send it.
 
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That would work fine for sinching it up if I can get it ran down far enough to start locking up, but when I go to remove it, as soon as the bolt tension is removed, the lockup goes away, and the bolt and nut would just spin. I would at minimum need to be able to hold the nut to get the bolt threaded in or out until the lock spring starts to hold it. That could be something fairly simple, but I am going to explore other options to make things easier on myself in the future.


edit: Bobby, you are right, a screwdriver works just fine to hold it until it snugs up, and fine for removal as well. Not that tricky, so I will probably just confirm it will be okay when the motor shifts and send it.
I messed around with a few ways and ideas and tube size was limiting as the stock frame has a lip i have to miss.

I need to have a redesign anyway due to the hitting of the awd trans and i want to allow bigger downpipes to fit so i shall also re look into the mounting for the front again.
 
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