- Thread starter
- #176
rabenne
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,803
- 836
- Apr 21, 2006
-
Racine,
Wisconsin
Sender fittings welded on! Gaining...
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Yeah my original plan was to do it that way then i found out it was not possible from the passneger side so i kept it the oem direction, even the pan side was tight getting in from the front.@ec17pse that's what I thought man! Mine are currently setup that way, and putting them in from the other direction (as shown in @NWHTanK 's photo) would take a bunch of extra work. I'm glad that's not necessary, because you would be dropping your subframe if you want remove the lateral lower control arm... I was hoping there wasn't something I was missing, and you just decided to include some nice 12.9's with the kit to round it out. Thanks for that btw, they look like quality bolts...
I will check out the thread to see the note about the pass side before I bolt it on. Thanks buddy!
You are bolting inside of a tube for the control arms.
The nut and bolt head are to big to fit in the tube from factory.
Yeah my original plan was to do it that way then i found out it was not possible from the passneger side so i kept it the oem direction, even the pan side was tight getting in from the front.
Where i can i will always include nice new as strong or stronger bolts. It just makes it that much nicer as a whole.
The clearance on the passenger side is not listed in the write up. I need to add it though for now untill i make the revision on the next round
Thats a good amount of room on the pan so thats safe, i wanted enough room for when the engine moves and twists as the pan will engine will rotate forwards so the pan moves backwards. That was what i was trying to do to be safe on clearance.Mine fits.. maybe I have the wrong (non-oem) nuts?
Not a problem. I just went out and looked to see whats up...
Tight on the drivers side too... I'll figure it out!
View attachment 604311 View attachment 604312
I know a solution to this. Weld a nut inside the cup... ?¿¿¿?
Once the nut grabs on the locking spring it will not spin and be ok to do up, if it needa a little assistance then a small flat head in the nut are helps.
I did not want to weld a nut on anytbing as if it strips its easy to replace seperate then one thats welded so i think about those small details also, i know if you strip a nut its not my problem but i make it as much of a problem for me as if i was buying it and i had that issue.
I messed around with a few ways and ideas and tube size was limiting as the stock frame has a lip i have to miss.That would work fine for sinching it up if I can get it ran down far enough to start locking up, but when I go to remove it, as soon as the bolt tension is removed, the lockup goes away, and the bolt and nut would just spin. I would at minimum need to be able to hold the nut to get the bolt threaded in or out until the lock spring starts to hold it. That could be something fairly simple, but I am going to explore other options to make things easier on myself in the future.
edit: Bobby, you are right, a screwdriver works just fine to hold it until it snugs up, and fine for removal as well. Not that tricky, so I will probably just confirm it will be okay when the motor shifts and send it.