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2G Will Not Idle

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98 TalClipse

Probationary Member
18
0
Jun 2, 2020
Dover, New_Hampshire
First post here and i searched a bit and couldnt really find anything specific to what my car is doing. So it's a 98 Talon with a 92 6 bolt swap with a 95 GST ECU. I have dsmlink V2. Now, someone else did all of the work, swap, wiring, everything. I bought it and when i bought it i was informed that it only needed a turbo. So i replaced the turbo with a 16G. Now come the issues. Stock injectors.

I have the fuel deadtime set to 0, which is what the previous owner said to do. So when i go to crank it over, it cranks fine but it wont start unless im giving it throttle. Once it starts, if it goes to idle, it immediately dies. AFR is around 14.6 while im feathering the throttle, trying to keep it alive. I have changed the spark plugs to NGK BPR7ES and playing with the idle screw makes little to no difference. It doesnt choke or die if i give it gas, it freely revs and runs great as well as builds boost.

So i know the main culprits could be TPS, IACV, CAS, something with the idle screw, possible vacuum leak and maybe the fuel filter. Otherwise, im totally lost. Also, i cant get my laptop to connect to the car again so i also have to figure that out. Appreciate any thoughts/help. Thanks!
 
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Does it have a Fast Idle Air Valve blockoff plate on the throttle body? That's the cold start valve actuated by the coolant temperature. If it's defective or blocked off, that would explain the difficult cold starts.

After the engine is warmed up to temperature, if it's still won't idle then there are possible vacuum leaks or issues with the idle control solenoid. Do some vacuum leak testing and check for proper functioning of the ISC valve (it's on the throttle body with the plug in connector). There are threads that explain the procedure.
 
Im pretty sure the FIAV is still connected but i will have to look to make sure. I havent really had much time to do many tests or look at things but i have all this weekend so im getting together a list of things to check. Thanks!
 
First post here and i searched a bit and couldnt really find anything specific to what my car is doing. So it's a 98 Talon with a 92 6 bolt swap with a 95 GST ECU. I have dsmlink V2. Now, someone else did all of the work, swap, wiring, everything. I bought it and when i bought it i was informed that it only needed a turbo. So i replaced the turbo with a 16G. Now come the issues. Stock injectors.

I have the fuel deadtime set to 0, which is what the previous owner said to do. So when i go to crank it over, it cranks fine but it wont start unless im giving it throttle. Once it starts, if it goes to idle, it immediately dies. AFR is around 14.6 while im feathering the throttle, trying to keep it alive. I have changed the spark plugs to NGK BPR7ES and playing with the idle screw makes little to no difference. It doesnt choke or die if i give it gas, it freely revs and runs great as well as builds boost.

So i know the main culprits could be TPS, IACV, CAS, something with the idle screw, possible vacuum leak and maybe the fuel filter. Otherwise, im totally lost. Also, i cant get my laptop to connect to the car again so i also have to figure that out. Appreciate any thoughts/help. Thanks!
You say idle screw. You mean biss screw? 1g or 2g throttle body?
 
You need to look as the controls are different. 2g does not have an idle position switch. I'd have to go look at mine but I don’t think it has any sort of throttle stop at all.
 
I had set it to 43 psi i believe but i dont have a pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel system. Ill have to work on why i cant get my laptop to connect to the ecu so i can check all of this stuff. Great info and thanks for the help!
 
Here are some pictures of the throttle body/engine bay.
 

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These eclipses were designed at the factory to have recirculating blow-off valves. All of the air inthe intake manifold is metered through the mass air flow sensor and it will affect the air-fuel ratios especially at deceleration and idle...it can cause stalling. But I don't think that is the problem for your high idle. Just an observation...

The high idle is most likely because there is some are getting past the butterfly valve in the throttle body somewhere. Check the links:
https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/dsm-idle-control
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idlesurge
 
Then that may be your problem! Get a hose and connect the exhaust port of the blow off valve back to the intake and that should help correct it. And maybe open up the BISS idle air screw for a little more air to raise the idle
 
The vacuum line coming off the nipple on the bov is teed to the boost controller. One line comes off the turbo to the boost controller inlet, and the other t from the bov line goes to the intake manifold. Is that not right?
 
I'm referring to the exhaust port of the blow off valve where the air comes out and you hear that swooshing sound when you let off the gas...it's about 1 1/4 inches in diameter...that should have a hose on it that is connected to the intake so all that excess air goes back into the intake pipe.
Like this:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
So when I turn the key on, my check engine light flashes quickly. Is it supposed to stay on for a bit? Or is that normal? The factory boost gauge goes up halfway with the key on so I don't think the ecu is cooked. Also, I'm not getting power at the diagnostic port. All fuses are good. Tested with multimeter. Going to pull that this weekend and see what's up but most likely why I can't connect to ecmlink.
 
So I got the ECU fixed by ecmtuning and got my v3 package. Laptop connected fine but now it will not again. Might be the cable as the ECU is working fine.

Now my turbo isn't making any boost. Can someone show me a diagram of how the vacuum lines are supposed to go as far as the turbo? The egr and emissions were deleted in this car prior to my ownership and it's a mess of lines running everywhere and I'm pretty sure something is messed up within it.
 
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