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@ec17pse I remember a video with a hose..?

The fitting comes with a very large flange, and has to be turned down to be welded on from the inside (too large otherwise). The fitting is super thin walled, but still much thicker than the pan material. Its super thin, like .070" or 1.75mm. Going to give it another shot when the new fitting comes Saturday. Decent plan but poor execution... I just suck at tig welding really badly. Its clumsy and its one step forward and two steps back. Nice thing is my buddy is just laughing confidently that he can fix whatever I mess up.

I test fitted the pan to a spare 6 bolt block I had in the shed, and it actually fits pretty decent. I will admit I had to clean up some of the factory welds that rubbed on the suitcase handle... and I will have to open up almost half of the bolt holes to get them to align well enough. They are all just a shade off in one direction. A die grinder can make them into ovals and im good to go there.

The only thing I haven't been able to check is rod clearance with the stroker crank since my spare block is all stock. Might have to do what PK did...
Video with a hose? Im lost on that one. I thought i might of wrote it but i cannot see anything like that so im a little lost LOL.

If he can fix it all for you then thats good. Keep going and see if you can get it done youtself. It is a shame its so thin walled and you have to turn the base down, the base really helps get a nice weld. Could you not of gone from the inside or is it still too big for that also
 
The weld was originally done on the inside only, but a couple pinholes kept it leaking, so I tried to go around the bottom of the front (where the holes were) and that just pushed the leaks to the edges. Then I tried to fix the edges and burnt the fitting so badly it started weeping LOL

I dont want to give up, but every time I try and fail it wastes a few more days and my progress is stagnant. I really want to keep progressing so I can actually drive this car before winter comes!!
 
The weld was originally done on the inside only, but a couple pinholes kept it leaking, so I tried to go around the bottom of the front (where the holes were) and that just pushed the leaks to the edges. Then I tried to fix the edges and burnt the fitting so badly it started weeping LOL

I dont want to give up, but every time I try and fail it wastes a few more days and my progress is stagnant. I really want to keep progressing so I can actually drive this car before winter comes!!
get the new fitting and have your friend sort it out, he should be able to do it in 1 go and no leak again then you will be 1 happy customer with a leak free fitting
 
right!?! a 12 pack of beer is totally worth it to be done with that part... I can keep trying to improve on scrap metal instead of "expensive" parts. LOL
Yeah dont do expensive parts as your test bed, its not a great idea
 
I tried brazing on the intake pipe and the nature of the pipe makes it too difficult. Everytime it gets close to done it gets back into the old filler and melts it out of place. Cant complete the circumference.

Might just see if an FP intake pipe fits. Anybody want to buy a DSM project LOL?
 
Looks sweet!! Upper hose seems too close imo. Saw someone mention that the spyder radiator have the inlet shifted over the the passengers side a bit.

For future reference, it is the 2.4L N/A motor that has the outlet shifted over on the passenger side.
 
For future reference, it is the 2.4L N/A motor that has the outlet shifted over on the passenger side.

So its the spyders without turbo... good to know. I haven't seen any aluminum tank radiators that have the outlet shifted, but now I have something new to look for. Thanks
 
I tried brazing on the intake pipe and the nature of the pipe makes it too difficult. Everytime it gets close to done it gets back into the old filler and melts it out of place. Cant complete the circumference.

Might just see if an FP intake pipe fits. Anybody want to buy a DSM project LOL?
An alloy intake pipe? If so thats your problem. Aluminum is not brazed. Its neither silver soldered. We dont do it because its quite impossible to do it right or well
 
It worked fairly well on a bung for my iat... but that was easy to keep mostly vertical the whole time. it was easy to pool filler without roll-off. I know its not as good as welding, but it doesnt leak and it is stuck extremely well. My problem on the 4" diameter pipe is working around the circumference and keeping the heat localized. As I moved along the seam, the heat would creep into areas I had already done, and it would melt the filler and roll right off from gravity. I got it almost done, ground it down, and found a light leak. So I tried to heat it up and fill the spot that was leaking light, and it melted too much and everything came out of the joint, then I had several leaks, and decided it wasnt a viable plan for this application... I may still use it on the bung for the breather system tho. If I cant get this pipe tig'd together on the first or second try, I will just buy a FP intake pipe, because it looks like it would be really close to correct with my setup. Then I could probably just tap the casting and put a NPT fitting on it for the breather...
 
It worked fairly well on a bung for my iat... but that was easy to keep mostly vertical the whole time. it was easy to pool filler without roll-off. I know its not as good as welding, but it doesnt leak and it is stuck extremely well. My problem on the 4" diameter pipe is working around the circumference and keeping the heat localized. As I moved along the seam, the heat would creep into areas I had already done, and it would melt the filler and roll right off from gravity. I got it almost done, ground it down, and found a light leak. So I tried to heat it up and fill the spot that was leaking light, and it melted too much and everything came out of the joint, then I had several leaks, and decided it wasnt a viable plan for this application... I may still use it on the bung for the breather system tho. If I cant get this pipe tig'd together on the first or second try, I will just buy a FP intake pipe, because it looks like it would be really close to correct with my setup. Then I could probably just tap the casting and put a NPT fitting on it for the breather...
Because its alloy it soaks up the heat and is not the best at letting the filler flow nicely. You could try some braze powder and it may help with the flow but for alloy i cannot say it will or not. We avoid alloy brazing like all the time and just weld it.

If the cast one fits and works well then go that route. I. Not sure how thick the pipe id for tapping but i believe many have done it with good leak free results (i hope)
 
Yea it was a bad plan, but I wanted to give it a shot for this. I had it so damn close, and after grinding it down it looked really nice too. Cleaned up better than the welds on my Dejon intake. Oh well, there wasn't much lost in trying...

I am also unsure about tapping a thin cast, but I know I have seen people running them that way, but who knows if they were actually leak free LOL! I am still thinking about options. Going to let my buddy try to save this pipe, he said it looks doable from pics.

I was trying to find a local with an FP pipe I could use for test fit before I buy another part that might just not work, but no luck...
 
So I had this cheapo aluminum spark plug cover that I ordered thinking it was plain finished (like the photos in the listing showed). But when it arrived, it had "Ralliart" logo milled on the top. Not really what I was after... so I milled the logo off today. At first it was flexing/deforming too much to get a decent cut, so I bolted it to the VC and fixed the VC in the mill. It worked pretty well!

This part will get color matched to my ic pipes and probably the intake pipe as well. Probably wrinkle black...


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Knocked out most of the 1/2" hard line install, but need a couple more cushion clamps to finish up. I removed the factory 1/4" return line, as well as the breather tube. Then I cut the divider in the factory holders and ran the hard line through the factory holders. They werent really good enough to hold it tight, so I decided to put a cushion clamp next to each factory holder. To do that I picked up a rivnut kit, and popped a few M6x1 rivet nuts into the floorboard. Stainless cap screws to finish them off.

Got a couple hoses ran as well. Still need to get the fuel pressure sending unit fittings welded up, and finish machining my fuel rail spacers, but the fuel system is coming along.

I sprayed a coat of the VHT on that cheapo spark plug cover, and it finally looks decent. Not a show car, but I think it will help keep it looking clean under the hood.
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Also got the oil pan test fitted with all the studs (took a bit more bolt hole wallowing). I am still worried I will find more issues with rod-throw interference once I test fit it on the engine in-car, but its getting closer!
Notice the fitting - the new one - and I am happy to report that my buddy nailed it on the first try, it is LEAK FREE!!!!

20200620_193828.jpg
 
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A bit more test-fitting... Got the pan on the stroker to check for rod-throw clearance issues... I didn't drop it back down to check for marks yet, but I think I felt a spot in the rotation where it got tight and then loosened up... probably a rod bolt pushing into the bottom of the pan, and deforming it so it can continue moving. If that is the case, I should see some witness marks on the pan, wherever it needs clearanced. As always, please excuse my messes...

Chipping away...
 
Got the fuel line finished up. Ran through the stock holders, but secured next to each holder with a cushion clamp, bolted into the rivenuts now installed in the floorboard. I could probably work the tube a bit straighter now that its all secured, but its not bad...


20200621_181917.jpg
 
Got the pan final test fitted with all studs and no rod bolt interference... the witness marks showed some interference in two spots (rod bolts 3 and 4), so I took a ball peen and set it on the witness mark, struck the ball peen with a sledge, and made nice little divots that move the material out of the way where needed. This could have been achieved other ways, but this solution was effective, free, and fast.

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Also finished up rebuilding the fuel pressure regulator, re-sealing all fittings, and made a new bracket for it (now that I have the 3g master cylinder that houses the reservoir on the cylinder).

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When I got my pan it didn't seat to the engine block, it was hitting the mains. I had bought mine new. So I got ahold of Moroso sent them pics , they then requested that I send them the pan, billet mains, studs, and girdle to mock up on thier block and they made me a new pan from scratch.
 
When I got my pan it didn't seat to the engine block, it was hitting the mains. I had bought mine new. So I got ahold of Moroso sent them pics , they then requested that I send them the pan, billet mains, studs, and girdle to mock up on thier block and they made me a new pan from scratch.

This one was a knock-off OBX Malaysia unit i gave $210 for (brand new). It took some work on my end, but it was still pretty manageable for the price.

From what I’ve read, I’ll have to do the same for main studs...ughhh. Never knew you had a cyclone IM :thumb:. Did you notice any gain?

Butt dyno said it was snappier in the low end switching from the 1g intake manifold, but that may have been me wanting it to be true... I never had great comparison logs because I suck at tuning LOL
 
Worse case with the pan is chop that area out and weld another plate over it to seal it leaving alot of room for the cap and bolt to swing past. People denting these for years and seems like the only option really but it works
 
Worse case with the pan is chop that area out and weld another plate over it to seal it leaving alot of room for the cap and bolt to swing past. People denting these for years and seems like the only option really but it works

The one guy that had commented before about the obx pan laid additional filler material in those areas on the outside so he could grind it away on the inside. It worked for him, and I considered doing that, but the dents got me clear for now. The pictures make it hard to see, but the divots are deeper than they look. Plenty of room now!
 
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This is what PK did with his (thanks for the lifted photo from his build journal)... I didnt have any issues with the spot where the sump goes down at rod #2 (no interference here). I assume the difference is that I didn't remove any material from the flange to flatten it. I clamped and hammered the flange as flat as I could on a known flat surface.. the far left dent looks similar, but number 3 must have been deeper than mine, and #2 wasn't an issue.
 
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