donniekak
DSM Wiseman
- 5,715
- 1,065
- Mar 23, 2008
-
Surprise,
Arizona
After battling the 1g clutch setup for years I finally found a fix for poor disengagement.
Running everything up to an act 2600, I didn't have much of an issue just swapping around oem clutch parts. In particular the 3000gt slave cylinder with its smaller diameter bore added enough throw for every clutch I've used. Until I installed an act 2900.
No matter how I setup the 2900, I couldn't get it shift good at high rpms. Doing a clutch drag test the car wouldn't move in 1st gear on the limiter, but the engagement right off the floor was saying otherwise coupled with the slow high rpm shifting.
I pulled the pedal assembly, installed brass bushings, and welded the arm onto the end of the shaft. Nothing different here.
The fix is what I did to the arm. I welded solid the factory hole where the Clevis pin goes. I then drilled another hole about 1/4"-3/8" further down the arm. The effect of this is to get maximum travel of the slave due to changing the ratio of pedal movement to slave movement, while still allowing the master to be in self adjusting range.
The car now shifts great.
I believe it's very important to make sure every part of the clutch system is working properly, and the clutch is bled before thinking you need this mod. Like I said above, for every clutch I've ever used, act 2100, act 2600, oem, xtd, competition, spec, southbend, a 3000gt slave was all I ever needed. The different geometry of the heavier act plates require more throw to work properly.
It's imperative to use metal bushings, and weld the assembly as well with this mod due to the added pedal effort.
Running everything up to an act 2600, I didn't have much of an issue just swapping around oem clutch parts. In particular the 3000gt slave cylinder with its smaller diameter bore added enough throw for every clutch I've used. Until I installed an act 2900.
No matter how I setup the 2900, I couldn't get it shift good at high rpms. Doing a clutch drag test the car wouldn't move in 1st gear on the limiter, but the engagement right off the floor was saying otherwise coupled with the slow high rpm shifting.
I pulled the pedal assembly, installed brass bushings, and welded the arm onto the end of the shaft. Nothing different here.
The fix is what I did to the arm. I welded solid the factory hole where the Clevis pin goes. I then drilled another hole about 1/4"-3/8" further down the arm. The effect of this is to get maximum travel of the slave due to changing the ratio of pedal movement to slave movement, while still allowing the master to be in self adjusting range.
The car now shifts great.
I believe it's very important to make sure every part of the clutch system is working properly, and the clutch is bled before thinking you need this mod. Like I said above, for every clutch I've ever used, act 2100, act 2600, oem, xtd, competition, spec, southbend, a 3000gt slave was all I ever needed. The different geometry of the heavier act plates require more throw to work properly.
It's imperative to use metal bushings, and weld the assembly as well with this mod due to the added pedal effort.