The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

2G Turbo Oil Drain Line Angle

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yeah that's kind of what I'm figuring out now. This little drain line kit I found in my parts box has a good size tube hose but the -10 AN fittings are smaller than stock size inner diameter... So they would cause a little restriction at the beginning and the end of the hose... But it's better than the giant leak I have right now from the crimped and bent stock one!!
 
Sorry don't mean to detract from this thread @1990TSIAWDTALON did I read correctly that the @MorrisonFab drain kit bolts into the factory location as in no need to weld on? I bought my drain kit from racepart solutions a la @Archer Fabrications Holset HX40 install thread but would rather have ease of install
Yes sir.
I used allen head bolts for the turbo side, per Matt's suggestion, and stock bolts AND bolt seals and drain gasket for the pan.
Gotta say I love it. :thumb:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/morrison-fab-turbo-drain.524997/
 
The smaller diameter in the AN fittings is why I don't like trying to make turbo drains using them. I cut the the corrugated section out of the OEM drain & use Goodyear chemical resistant hose with constant tension clamps between the two ends.
 
The smaller diameter in the AN fittings is why I don't like trying to make turbo drains using them. I cut the the corrugated section out of the OEM drain & use Goodyear chemical resistant hose with constant tension clamps between the two ends.
And we've done that too! :thumb:
:f-u: that flex section!
 
I went with 3/4 and went high on the oil pan. You definitely want to move the oil well so all that hot oil doesn't spend a bunch of time backed up in the turbo. New lines are cheap, turbochargers...not so much LOL
 
Yup. You've already downgraded from stock by going to 10AN and reducing the inside diameter of the drain line by 1/4", now you've added a sharp bend right at the pan which, on a gravity drain, is a bad idea.

You want the drain to turn upward as quickly as possible but with the least amount of a bend as possible to promote the best drainage. The only way this can be done is with either two 45's or a 60 and 30 fitting depending how far the turbo is placed away from the engine by the manifold selection.

Here's why you want the drain to turn upward quickly...the way our engines sit in the bay, the inlet at the pan is not the lowest part of the drain. This is a terrible design but it's what we're stuck with unfortunately. If the fitting at the pan on this car was a 45, the flow would be much better and it would keep oil from laying in the line as well.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The forward engine tilt that Justin points out is exactly why have been angling the oil pan fitting up, getting rid of the slight "uphill" section just before it goes into the oil pan to better evacuate the drain line.
Just to note, our 3/4" oil drain kits are made for turbos with a 2" center to center drain flange, which is the most common bolt pattern for Borg Warner, PTE, and Holset etc turbos, but not for MHI bolt-on turbos that use a 1.5" center to center bolt patten.

Sorry don't mean to detract from this thread @1990TSIAWDTALON did I read correctly that the @MorrisonFab drain kit bolts into the factory location as in no need to weld on? I bought my drain kit from racepart solutions a la @Archer Fabrications Holset HX40 install thread but would rather have ease of install

Yes, it is a direct bolt-on as Marty said :)

The ID of the fittings and oil hose are a bit larger than the factory oil pan opening, which isn't an issue to use as-is and greatly help with drainage to begin with, but if you want the most oil drain area possible the oil pan can be taken off and that hole drilled to 3/4" to match (there is enough area there to do so without any sealing concerns) along with opening up the gasket opening.

Cheers!
 
Yup bought your kit without hesitation! Thanks for all your support to this community. I will probably make the opening slightly bigger as you said to allow for more area but not having to hire someone to weld a bung probably saved me $100
 
Ever since I did a turbo swap I had a really slow leak from the turbo oil line (which I upgraded when I swapped but I guess it just didn’t seal right).
So now I paid for this oil drain line already made to make sure that it doesn’t leak. Was wondering, is this 90 degree into the oil pan too steep of an angle? I remember one of my old buddies said to watch out for the stuff, something about oil pooling in the line. Basically is the bottom of the 90 degree fitting too angled and will it cause issues?

Don't leave it like that.
I saw someone posted a photo of the barb fittings with a 45°. That's the way you would want it, maybe not a full 45°

I purchased a 90° 10an fitting and it didn't line up with the turbo drain feed. I ended heating up the fitting (little by little) and bent into the correct angle for my feed line.
As others said Stm sells the kit.
Goodluck
 
The smaller diameter in the AN fittings is why I don't like trying to make turbo drains using them. I cut the the corrugated section out of the OEM drain & use Goodyear chemical resistant hose with constant tension clamps between the two ends.

I agree, the AN couplings are smaller diameter than the OEM line and more restrictive. Compare OEM line with the AN coupling...
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I had no choice but to install my AN line for now... The factory line was leaking all over the parking lot because it was crushed and bent and missing a gasket.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I'm going to get another OEM line for better flow and ease of installation. But for now, here's the AN line with Permatex Right Stuff used for the oil pan coupling. No more leaks! (The clamp was just an extra precaution...those hoses aren't coming off!)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
New OEM 2G drains are $20...if you use an OEM gasket with the raised silicone embossment facing the pan and also stud the pan you won't have any more leaks. Also...never, ever use RTV on oil drains. I have a thread about this.

For those who aren't using a stock turbo, you cut the 2G drain line a little over an inch above the flex section and slide a section of 3/4" silicone hose over it. On the other side you get a 3/4" I.D. hose barb and a threaded fitting for whatever turbo you're using and join it to the base with clamps. This particular setup is a full 3/4" I.D. for a Holset:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Nice setup...I was in a pinch due to the bad oil leak. I'll probably get a better setup like that soon. Also, the sealant I used is not rtv silicone...it's called the Right Stuff (black) by Permatex and it's a one minute instant gasket maker designed to withstand the pressure, heat and chemicals in an oil pan. My owner friend at a BMW/Porsche shop recommended it a few years back...Works every time without fail, no waiting for setup or dry times, even if the surface is not clean and has a little oil on it. Used to be $8 a can...but now that it's caught on with the DIY community it's selling for $30 a can. And I was careful to clean out the excess so it didn't block the inner diameter of the coupling too.
 
I tightened the coupling on the oil pan with the two bolts, then I carefully cleaned out the excess gasket maker inside the drain hole with a cotton swab before I attached the hose. The hole was already smaller than the stock tube, so I was determined not to make it any more restrictive from excess gasket maker. Should be fine for now. I'll upgrade the line later.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top