The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

NGR Type S adjustment

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JwUoNoG

15+ Year Contributor
528
3
Aug 12, 2004
Perry Hall/Parkville, Maryland
Any tips on adjusting the NGR Type S BOV? I tightened it a few turns from where it was out of the box (I believe backed out all the way).

Under light/no boost, I get a quiet whoosh, or even a little bit of fluttery sounds.

Moderate boost, I get a whistle.

However, under a WOT pull, I get a loud whoosh. Sounds just like a puff of air, like any other BOV.

I had a Greddy Type S 15 years ago, I can't remember if I got the whistle under WOT too...

Thanks in advance!
 
This sounds Like mine & normal to me. I have both a real Greddy Typs-S & NGR Type-S & they sound the same & like what you've described. Also sounds like you have yours adjusted fairly well too.
 
Thanks! I adjusted it so many times and was always second guessing myself.

The hex bolts that hold the cap on were loose. One was missing and I think 4 others were loose. I asked NGR for more, and they sent them. I used some blue thread locker and put them all back in. They would've rattled off eventually!
 
The oring in my adjustment screw broke when I tightened it too far. I have a new one on the way.

Do I need to disassemble it to install the new oring?
 
My NGR was stuck in the open position the other day while driving, huge boost leak. I revved the engine several times and it went away.

I'm having some sound issues now...

After the BOV releases, I hear a bird whistle type of sound. It's two high pitched tones.

I played around with several different settings, it doesn't seem to improve. At some settings in the middle, I also get a long high pitched squeal that lasts during deceleration until I go to neutral or open the throttle again.

Any ideas what it could be? It seems to be independent of the adjustment settings. I still have both springs in.
 
I found out what the issue was.

The o-ring that goes around the plunger was completely missing.

I guess it got jammed when it got stuck open, and then flew off.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Sweet- so that either ended up in the intake manifold, in the turbo inlet if it's recirculated, or vanished into the abyss if it's vented.

I had one come off the same garbage valve but luckily it somehow ended up getting stuck on top of the piston. I filled the groove with weatherstrip adhesive then placed the o-ring back where it goes so I defy it to try and escape again.
 
So I got the O ring replaced. It is a #18 o-ring.

The bird sound is still there, but if I tighten the adjustment screw down enough, it goes away. However, the BOV doesn't whistle as much as it used to under this setting.

I might try connecting the lower nipple. Maybe the boost will hold the plunger shut and prevent the weird sound.
 
So I have it back on and adjusted. This time I had to do several more turns. It's more whooshy than I'd like, but I get a loud whistle under boost.

If I loosen it, I can get more whistle, but then I get the weird after-chirps. I guess I just gotta live with it.
 
I ended up doing the single spring mod.

While the cap was off, I started the car and moved the plunger around. I found that if I hold the plunger almost closed, it creates the chirp sound that was bothering me. It seems that with the screw tightened to a good whistley setting, after the valve opens, when it goes back, the plunger doesn't quite close right away. A little bit of air escapes from the gap, and then it closes.

I did the single spring mod so that I could have more of a whistle sound, and reduce the spring pressure so that it wouldn't result in the tiny gap.
 
Sorry to keep bumping this thread. I'm not sure if anyone still uses this BOV, but when I had a DSM 15 years ago, it seemed like almost everyone did.

After doing hours of research on this BOV, I think I can provide some helpful advice for any potential user.

The single spring mod might be better for DSMs, but in my experience on a different car, it was too soft. I was able to get the BOV to open when just slightly reducing the amount of throttle (TB not completely closed). I believe I was experiencing a boost leak under partial throttle boost conditions as well.

If your BOV is making a bird tweet sound AFTER the main whistle, your BOV is set too soft. The noise is caused by the plunger not completely sealing after the valve opens and returns to the idle position. Tighten it just a quarter turn at a time until the tweet sound goes away.

I found this out by removing the cap and moving the plunger back and forth by hand while the car was idling.

Watch the plunger and rev up enough to make the BOV open. If it returns to the completely closed position, you should be good. If it is still slightly open, it is too lose.
 

Attachments

  • NGRtypesPlunger.png
    NGRtypesPlunger.png
    617.4 KB · Views: 76
Thanks for adding the tips for any other users. I have 2 of those NGR Type S BOV's and haven't put them on yet. :thumb:
 
They are in "inventory" ROFL. Probably be in the classifieds when I get to them. They are #56 & 57 out of 442 parts WTF with still many boxes and parts not listed yet. I have my own dam warehouse! :banghead:
 
I recently upgraded my LICP on my Focus ST where my NGR is mounted. I didn't get a great look, but I think the O ring flew off again!

Luckily my BOV can run vented with no problem since the ST has a MAP sensor. I'd be wary of running this on a DSM that recirculates. An O ring could easily take out a turbo and/or motor.
 
Spoke too soon, the o ring is still there.

I finally got the sweet spot. It's so fickle.
 
So the infamous p0505 IAC code came up on me after doing a clutch replacement...Im still fighting with this code and I did come across this NGR adjustment sorry bring this back up. It took NGR to get to me on this info a while but I got it. In the picture I've included the #18 O Ring and top hat Allen bolts mine somehow warped over time I guess and I asked them about these too. So here they are...
They should be available at your local Home Depo spent about 7 bucks.
The new Allen's look nice.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
That's a shame. I really hoped that BOV would get some revisions and be a good way to get that throwback, period-correct sound for all of us restoring DSMs right now. I had an NGR on my 1G back in 2011(?) and had the same problems those above are experiencing.

I guess I'll stick to this awful-sounding HKS I have, ha.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top