So I've owned my 1g fwd talon now for 3 years, and have basically gone through everything in that time. My goals have always been just a well sorted fun car to daily during the warmer months.

Since I've owned the car I've always had shifting issues, and can't ever find a remedy. I've done all the recommended mods, fix's, and adjustments that I've read about. Including: completely rebuilding my shifter, solid base bushings, and all new OEM bushings throughout. Also solid bushings at the trans(where the cables attach). I've tried several different combinations of trans fluids (mt85, mt90, syncromesh, etc). When none of this worked, I figured my syncros we're shot, And needed a rebuild. So I ended up sourcing a rebuilt 1g fwd trans. But to no prevail, no matter what I've tried it always the same. Crunchy, unsatisfying, sometimes terrible shifting experience. Also I should mention I've tried adjusting everything more times than I can count. Both shift cables, and clutch adjustment.

So I'm asking myself whats left, what could be?. The only thing I can really think of, is the cables are stretched, not giving enough movement?. And that's kinda what it seems like, especially with the left/right movement. So any input would greatly appreciate?. Thanks.

Clutch not disengaging. Check the pedal itself. Its a well documented problem. Test it. Check it. Fix it if necessary. Also consider the possibility that your "rebuilt " trans isn't. Unless you did it or you have receipts for parts. Clutch is most likely in my opinion.

Test for clutch drag.

Park on a flat surface.
Put the car in 1st gear and leave the clutch pushed in all the way to the floor.
Make sure the e-brake is off.
Rev the car to 7000 rpm.

If the car creeps forward, you have clutch drag and need to fix it.


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ErikTande said:

Test for clutch drag.

Park on a flat surface.
Put the car in 1st gear and leave the clutch pushed in all the way to the floor.
Make sure the e-brake is off.
Rev the car to 7000 rpm.

If the car creeps forward, you have clutch drag and need to fix it.


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Thanks Erik, that's great info. I have done this test in the past, but it's been a while. And have done clutch job since the last time, so I'll definitely give it another try. Just FYI, I love your YouTube channel, always make great content. Been patiently waiting for some content on the new 2g!!

pauleyman said:

Clutch not disengaging. Check the pedal itself. Its a well documented problem. Test it. Check it. Fix it if necessary. Also consider the possibility that your "rebuilt " trans isn't. Unless you did it or you have receipts for parts. Clutch is most likely in my opinion.

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And yes I've been asking myself the same thing, did I get screwed on that transmission. I'm trying eliminate all other options before I dive into the trans. But it's kind of encouraging knowing it was about the same with both transmissions. Either way, I'm committed to fixing the issue whatever it is.

Two possibilities come to mind:
1) Are shifter cable casings bolted securely to tranny so they can't move?
2) Select lever shoe is worn (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/97-gs-t-fifth-gear-grinding-help.376341/#post-152266167).

Well on my way home from work I stopped in a empty parking lot and did the clutch drag test. As it turns out I do have a small amount of drag above 6k. It's pretty suttle, but it's there. So tomorrow I'll try to adjust the clutch pedal out some more. If I remember correctly though, I'm just about out of adjustment. I definitely feel like since I swapped over to a ACT 2600 PP, my issue has been compounded. When I had a brand new excedy oem clutch in, it definitely shifted smoother. If it would hold any power I'd switch back. From what I've read, that's pretty common with the ACT?.

If you feel grinding then your synchronizers are shot.

Good synchronizers will fight you from shifting until the gear speeds are matched.

Its tough to get an act2600 not to drag on a 1G. I'm pulling my trans to replace the synchros this winter, and I'll be putting a twin disc back in as well as a feshly rebuilt and welded pedal.

Are your master and slave cylinders new? Some people on this site have had success eliminating clutch drag with a 2g master cylinder rod, that's what I had to do with my new clutch.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/extend-master-clutch-rod-or-shim-pivot-ball.527034/page-3

Check the pedal assembly itself. Grab the pedal with one hand and the clevis lever with the other. Try and move them relative to one another. If it moves the shaft of the pedal and the hole in the clevis lever are bad. What happens is when you push the pedal the first inch or two isn't moving the master. Its well documented and you may have read of people welding their clutch pedal. That is why.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-basic-101-a-clutch-basics-thread-for-everybody.459908/

ErikTande said:

Are your master and slave cylinders new? Some people on this site have had success eliminating clutch drag with a 2g master cylinder rod, that's what I had to do with my new clutch.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/extend-master-clutch-rod-or-shim-pivot-ball.527034/page-3

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Yeah I bit the bullet and purchased OEM master and slave. Also installed a braided clutch line. I'll have to look into the 2g rod, thanks.

pauleyman said:

Check the pedal assembly itself. Grab the pedal with one hand and the clevis lever with the other. Try and move them relative to one another. If it moves the shaft of the pedal and the hole in the clevis lever are bad. What happens is when you push the pedal the first inch or two isn't moving the master. Its well documented and you may have read of people welding their clutch pedal. That is why.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-basic-101-a-clutch-basics-thread-for-everybody.459908/

Click to expand...

Yes I have investigated my pedal assembly, it seems ideal. No slop or play, or very little. I've been fairly fortunate with a few things like that. I'm sure it's because my car had lived it's life completely stock, until I purchased it. And oem clutches are pretty light.

So let me ask you guys, what are some better options for clutch kits short of going twin disk? Ones that don't drag as easy, good to around 300whp, and have good street characteristics? Thanks.

I like southbound and I'm sure I'll get flamed for this....centerforce.