That's a 1g cam angle sensor. It doesn't necessarily mean your engine is a 6 bolt. Easiest way to tell which block it is would probably be by the oil pan.

91talonts1 said:

That's a 1g cam angle sensor. It doesn't necessarily mean your engine is a 6 bolt. Easiest way to tell which block it is would probably be by the oil pan.

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thats what my brother said, how do i check that?

6 bolt pan is flat where it meets the front case. 7 bolt is rounded there.

Also, the 6 bolt block is more skinny and has one less bolt for the bell housing. It can be seen if you still have the transmission from the 7 bolt connected.. You may see a missing bell housing bolt just under the #4 cylinder exhaust port area (front of engine passenger side). The bell housing from a 7 bolt won't match up exactly with a 6 bolt block.

Besides, a 6 bolt swap is usually considered desirable modification for a reliable bottom end and to avoid the crank bearing issues of some early 7 bolt engines.

Sniffbooger said:

Also, the 6 bolt block is more skinny and has one less bolt for the bell housing. It can be seen if you still have the transmission from the 7 bolt connected.. You may see a missing bell housing bolt just under the #4 cylinder exhaust port area (front of engine passenger side). The bell housing from a 7 bolt won't match up exactly with a 6 bolt block.

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This is a difference between 1G and 2G engine blocks, not necessarily a difference between 6- and 7-bolt. Remember there were 1G 7-bolt engines. And the 1G 7-bolt block is, in some ways, like the 6-bolt engine, including how many bolts there are connecting the block and transmission.

Oil pan method is pretty fool-proof.

Ahhh the wise man speaks! Thank you for the clarification!! So in my post above, I would be describing a 1g 6 bolt skinny block, mated to a 2 g transmission if there was a missing bell housing bolt near the #4 cylinder.... Or that could also be a 1g 7 bolt block...it's not a perfect indicator...

I hear ya, and you're not wrong. All I'm saying is that looking at that particular detail isn't enough to definitively determine whether the block is a 6-bolt or 7-bolt because the 1G 7-bolt exists and would look identical to a 6-bolt engine in that regard.

Missed your ninja edit. You've got it! Oil pan is going to be a simple and easy check for anyone. There's plenty of other ways if the oil pan just doesn't do it, though.

Good information. So the 6 bolts were really only the first few years...maybe up to 1993 or so...

Changeover in April of 1992. So there are some '92 model year 7-bolts as the model year changed over in June if I recall correctly, but most 1992 models are 6-bolts. 1993 and 1994 models were all 7-bolts.

As an additional comment, I've run the 1G CAS on several 2G 7 bolt engines with no issues. So like it was said, just because the 1G CAS is there, it doesn't immediately mean there's a 6 bolt engine. I even ran a 1G CAS on a 7 bolt with confirmed crankwalk just so I could make the engine last a couple weeks longer until I had the time to replace it.

A Honda distributor will even fit there

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

A Honda distributor will even fit there

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Ummm...does it work??

It would if we had an intake for a carb. It is the same size as the CAS and happens to have the same slots in the bottom to engage in the cam. We had a 89 Accord that I was comparing it to and I am sure it would bolt in, then just run a coil and a carb. My son and I both laughed when we saw it probably would work. IDK if Mitsu ever had a carbed motor that had an intake that would bolt up to ours tho.

The coil is inside the distributor on the civic distributor I have from '95...but it probably is not enough juice to push a spark under high boost conditions....but that would give the cam signal... although it would fry the ECU!

Not for ecu use, only battery, starter, coil, fuel pump or gravity feed and distributor. I was thinking of making a "run in" stand if I could find an intake and carb so I could run in all of my 4g motors.