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Hi Miguel, thanks for the entertainment, how much was your initial investment may I ask? In regards to the leak, are you sure its from the transfer case? I thought it had a different coloured fluid to Transmission fluid. Its possible the leak is coming from the drive shaft seal. If you ever want to do a rebuild on the tranny I can get cheap gasket overhaul kits. Thanks again for the 1gina2g kiggly crank sensor. My little beast is finally out of its 3 year coma and is recovering nicely just waiting on ECMlink to get it tuned.
 
Hi Miguel, thanks for the entertainment, how much was your initial investment may I ask? In regards to the leak, are you sure its from the transfer case? I thought it had a different coloured fluid to Transmission fluid. Its possible the leak is coming from the drive shaft seal. If you ever want to do a rebuild on the tranny I can get cheap gasket overhaul kits. Thanks again for the 1gina2g kiggly crank sensor. My little beast is finally out of its 3 year coma and is recovering nicely just waiting on ECMlink to get it tuned.
Hey bro, nice to hear she is running, I bet you were like a little kid with new toy:rocks:

Than you is good to know about the transmission rebuild kit, I being thinking about it, but for now I have put quite a bit of time in it, I might enjoy it and may e later on, I will do the rebuild, however, I will keep you in mind when the time comes.

The leak is from the transfer case, When I reinstall it, I add some shockwave oil which is orange, and the oil leak is orange, the oil is clean and I can tell very well is transfer case oil.

It’s the seal where the input shaft goes in to the Tcase, you can see in the pic the wetness between the Tcase and transmission, I will change the seal and get the outer shaft seal replaced at the same time to make sure there will be no leaks in the future.

Talking about the investment, well I loose truck of how much I have put into it but I will do a list for you to have an Idea.

Parts I have put into it so far.

1. New radiator and cap.
2. Evo3 Tubo and accessories.
3. Exhaust manifold Heat shields.
4. Head gasket and head rebuild.
5. Evo3 exhaust manifold.
6. Dash.
7. Front seats.
8. Sunroof.
9. Transmission mount.
10. Complete cooling hose kit.
11. Transmission oil change/filter.
12. Motor oil change/filter.
13. Coolant fluids change and rust cleaner.
14. Axle bolt replacement.
15. Driver side wheel bearing.
16.Both from lower ball joints/arm.
17. Both upper ball joints.
18. Front sway bar end links.
19. Timing belt kit with water pump.
20. Middle timing cover peace.
20 spark plugs/wires.
21 Brake pads all around.
22.Center console.
23. Front O2 sensor.

There are some little stuff like, wrinkle paint, headliner glue and fabric etc etc, but I didn’t include that which they are cheap.

Most of the build like mine is the time what we put into it rather then money wise. Remember, this is a stock form build, not a monster, that’s the difference, we want to uses most of the stock parts and keep it as stock as it can look.
 
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Your best bet is to buy a second hand tranny and rebuild it and do a swap out, then you have two or just sell one but at least thats less time the car has to be off the road plus its good to have spare parts when it comes to theses auto boxes, they are becoming rare.
 
Your best bet is to buy a second hand tranny and rebuild it and do a swap out, then you have two or just sell one but at least thats less time the car has to be off the road plus its good to have spare parts when it comes to theses auto boxes, they are becoming rare.


Yea you are right, I used to do that with the manual trans, I end up with 4 tranys and Tcases., After I moved in, I ended up selling them all because of the space,. Right now I have 2 3000 vr4 transmissions and Tcase, and 2 rear end of the same 3000gt and I don’t own a 3000 vr4:idontknow:

I have in mind to mate the 3000 6 speed transmission to the 4g63, but will see.
I have a bunch of stuff laying around,. At one time I had parts to build 3 cars from scratch, now I have only for 1 carLOL

Right now, I have 3 engines, a 3000vr4, a 4g64 in a stand and a 4g64 in the shop getting all the good stuff. When I moved in here I did a garage sale, or better say, a giveaway, I gave out a lot of stuff because I barely get time to sell, I’m out of town most of the year.

I didn’t have in mind to rebuild the trans to be honest I was planing to do a manual swap when the auto gives up, but driving it daily, I started to like the comfort, And I being thinking on a rebuild instead of the swap.

I might start looking for auto parts instead of swapping to manual, anyways I all ready have a manual, so why not keep it that way, one manual and one auto and sweep a coin when it comes to play:hellyeah:
 
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Classic, yeah autos are the way to go especially for a daily. I also have 3 4g63t"s and 1 4g64 and two manual transmissions & 3 W4A33's. The W4A33 is a strong box plus you can muck around with shift settings and strengthen the internal parts like the kick down band the shafts and springs. But the other day I picked up an evo 8 6 speed manual gear box and the transfer case for less than $200 USD, of course i will have to rebuild but could make some good coin on that deal!
 
$200 for the evo 8 transmission ??? That’s a real deal, hope you get it fixed and get your money back, which I’m sure you willLOL

Well, good to know you are an expert about transmission, I might do the rebuild myself when it comes the time, just to have a regular knowledge how the internals work in an auto trans.


Today I didn’t do much on the car, I checked on the new brakes, which I just put on, and I just found out, I left the axle loose:confused:, for some reason I forgot to tight the axle nut:beatentodeath:.
So the axle was wiggling and rubbing on the abs sensor, it grind it a bit. So I grind the mounting spot to be able to get the sensor deeper and get closer to the axle ring, however it didn’t work, or at least it didn’t changed.

The problem I’m having is, it brakes normal but when I’m slowing down (braking), once it gets to 20mph, it kicks in the abs module and makes a really bad noise, like if the brakes pads are shot.

I think the abs sensor got damaged completely and the system detected different rotation vs the left side and thinks is slipping.

I am in search for another sensor to put it on and see what happens.

On another hand, the AC compressor is not working, so I have to change it, I left it there with hope to make it work, but well.
 
I’m guessing you checked the wiring relays etc for the compressor? Usually it’s the clutch that needs testing could be just a bad ground? Im no expert but I like the idea of buying something cheap that doesn’t take up to much room and turning over a profit and learning something too!
 
Well the only thing I did was to put the axle and the wheel bearing., OK, I did a lot of maintenance but concerning to the abs, the axle and wheel bearing was the only parts I change that are related to the abs.

After doing all maintenance and swapping those parts it started doing that, that’s when I check and realized the axle was loose, and was like 3/4 inches backed out the hub, so when I turn the wheel the axle was wiggling and hitting the abs sensor, the sensor has the end point (where meets the axle ring) shiny and the axle ring too,

So, I think the axle ring was rubbing the sensor and grind the tip of it and now is shorter.

But the feeling is like if the caliper is sticking and makes a horrible sound, but the sound is more like knocking and not like squealing, there is no metal or anything and the knocking is not constant as the wheel is rotating, it clonks a couple of times and goes and clonks and go and I can feel in my foot if it was metal to metal, after a couple of doing it, it starts to smell barn pads.

Thinking about it now that I’m describing it, It’s going to be the caliper getting stuck, is just wear it doing it only bellow 20 mph.

I will have to look at it and see what I can find.
 
Have you wobbled the wheel off the ground to make sure it’s not the wheel bearing?
 
No it’s not the wheel bearing. I just replace it with a new one and after replacing It, it was when all this happened.

And thinking about it,I don’t think the sensor is bad because I haven’t get a code, all seems good (tacking about warning lights).
 
Updating.

I still have the driver side brakes acting up and figure out, it’s the abs system that kicks in below 20 mph.
I went to clean up the abs sensor and I found what was the problem, the gear ring that goes around the axle broke 3 teeth, the abs is catching that and thinking the tire is turning slower or better say, it’s slipping and the abs system kicks in.
000F8746-69FD-4EB9-A31E-58E90DDF69A9.jpeg
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I removed the abs fuse, took it for a spin and the problem disappeared.

Well, now to the search for a new axle gear ring to replace it.
I will use it as is with the abs system disabled for now.



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After that I moved to the Tcase seal and replace it. It’s all good and dry down there so Im very happy, I have always think, a dry (Free of leaks) Engine has big value.

Ho by the way, I forgot to mention, the original AC compressor didn’t work, I had hope the noise was doing was because the compressor wasn’t tight, but it keeps making noise, so I replaced it with the new one, put some free on and is working cold as hell,. So I’m super excited having AC again.

When I changed the AC compressor, I remove the brake reservoir and bracket to give it a good clean up, I even paint the bracket and filled the reservoir with fresh brake fluid.

I’ll update later on.
 
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Yes finally I figure it out, I will drive it like that for the moment,I don’t want to stress to much, thank you guys for fallowing the build.

Update, I got a 2gb hoist In the mail it arrived yesterday.

BIG THANKS TO 98 DSM WHO DONATED THE BRACKET and contribute to the build. I appreciate the effort to look for it and send it to me. And at no cost.

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Here is a comparación between both. You can see the provision it has for the knock sensor connector.

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Here is how it seats now, I can see the connector in there:tease:
I know this is totally insignificant for a lot of DSMers, but To me it means a lot, I will bring this car back %100 to its original look.

582EF9CA-5991-4551-A753-75FBD8DE2753.jpeg



Also, I got the package from a vendor from here, yes, I try to contribute to the market from our platform, to keep them going strong and stay with us, Well I just wanted to mention that to invite others to do the same.

I ordered two sets of seals for the Tcase, I replaced both seals and save a set for the other car.

E6504503-C331-40C1-84B2-D8295E32ECD3.jpeg


The bracket has a provision hole to hold the wiring harness, so I looked for a zip tie with the mounting coil and secured the harness from there.

60E77324-F119-4DCE-848E-6E2626525F72.jpeg


I still have to source the wiring harness cover/holder or what ever is called, it bolts on with two bolts from the front intake manifold, it holds the wiring eight behind the fuel rail, also i need the front hoist that bolts to the manifold bolts and steering pump, but I’m not to worry about it which they all the same (94/99), so I can easily find one.

I just started to work in the inside of the car to complete the black conversion. I will update once I get something to show, so keep tune. :)
 
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I found a 95 talon fwd at the junkyard, it entered 3 days ago and I got most of the parts I needed to complete my car.

B36F3CD1-3194-4358-8FFD-02A190845AE0.png



I will update the thread later on, so keep tune.


As mention, here are the parts I got.


03F7C954-20CE-4FC4-9514-8CA1E8C95241.jpeg


Here is the motor mount it’s a bit different then the one was on the car, wondering if autos and manuals uses different motor mounts, or it came of a galant?
You can see the center mounting locations is a bit higher in one mount then the other, well I put it in anyways and I add the wall protector or what ever you call it, I only have one so I have to source the o the one later on.

9BF41BB8-2E31-4CA3-A4A2-C1C715ED43B7.jpeg
2907290A-1962-4F0E-BD0D-D52418E27F0A.jpeg


Here is installed.

E0BC3A81-91B6-49E1-90AE-AEDD3FB374B7.jpeg

I removed the manifold heat shield to bolt on the front hoist and look what I found, two bolts were Brocken, no wondering the loose of power I was feeling,.
Lucky me I got the bolts out with my bare fingers, I replaced them with some other used once.

8B18460B-585F-4A1B-868C-49399369F64C.jpeg


unfortunately, I couldn’t install the hoist because the evo manifold is to thick and the nut , hits the manifold and a sucker won’t get in, I have to bolt it down with and open wrench, so for now I will leave it as is, whenever I have to remove the manifold,I will grind down that area to be able to fit a socket.

The plastic, or harnes guid/holder or what ever it’s called was in bad shape, so I reinforce it, paint it and put it on. Herís how I got it.

A47BA23F-67A0-4E9C-83C7-0DEEA6C67B74.jpeg


And here is installed.

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I removed the famous EBay Jpipe that I modified and make it look original, I sand down the welds And make it look smooth and paint it wrinkle black to get a stockish look.

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I send down the engine to check how it looks, I haven’t see it since I replaced the Tcase seal.
Well, I found a very light leak at the Tcase and transmission Union, I didn’t go deep to see what was it, I will give a bit more time to have an idea how bad is the leak, looks like is very minimal so will see,.

I also see the oil return line a bit wet, that definitely will have be changed, here are some pics of the leak.

191C2F48-79CF-42E7-9210-A2BC05EC0E05.jpeg

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Hope you guys are entertained.
I will update the thread later on.
 
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It’s being so long since I update this.

I left to work and left the car to my sister to drive it which here car Brock, well 3 weeks later she called me saying the car some times stalls but besides that, everything was working ok.

Yesterday I fixed her car and had my talon back. When I came home I hear a rattle noise coming from the alternator and I check it out, this is what I found right after opening the hood.


AA01B0D0-F948-43F7-B867-D3EA93E21C67.jpeg
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CFCF661F-E69D-4CE5-B1E2-3DD64EA4DD36.jpeg

It had CEL on and all were from the map, sensors and vacoom related, well I fixed everything except the Brocken sensor wire and the egr that it leaks,
My old egr valve was leaking and I just replaced it with this used one, it was good but didn’t last, so I will look for another one to replaced it , odd they are not selling it es anymore, I could grind it only used.

Well the valve cover gasket is leaking but I didn’t have time to replace it, I’ll see if I can do that before leaving to work, the good news is the Tcase is dry which means all seals under there are good, i did replaced both t case seals buck was worried about the transmission input shaft being bad but apparently is all good.

On a side note, when I was working in Denver Colorado, I spot a talon in a junkyard and took the awd transmission, the intake to bov recirculating hose which was new, and the front axle ring (abs ring)., As you guys remember I broke a tooth when changing the wheel bearing and caused problems to the abs system, I just have to get the time to replace it.

For some reason the wheel bearing is making a loud noise, it might be the wheel bearing being defective which I just replace it, I will pay attention to it, it might be something else.

I love the car but everything time I compare to my weekend car, I get disappointed because is stock tight, I might get some coil overs and lower it, it makes a lot of difference.

Funny, my weekend car is not painted, it’ has red doors and bumpers and the rest is grey, but all my family likes it better the way it looks compared to the painted one, I know is because is lowered, has wider wheels and has the brembo looking thing that stands out a lot.

Money is my problem right now, I want a haltech ECU and some coil overs for the daily one.

Im debating if keeping it the way it is with OEM wheels or go wided and do a brembo swap. Well see but for now, stay tune.
 
Little update, looks like my transmission. Is slipping, I can’t afford a rebuild at this time, but I have a spare manual transmission that I have being thinking in doing the swap, this is my dd, so for the moment I being thinking in welding a spare center differential and put it in the spare transmission and drop it in,. This way I don’t need to change the rear differential to match the manual gear ratios and don’t need to source both front axles for the manual transmission and the Tcase.
I will do it this way to be able to dd while I get the time to rebuild the auto transmission.

I will keep you guys posted.
 
Updating the thread.

I replaced the from driver side wheel bearing and discovered, the axle boot was pinched, I don’t know how that happened but I will replace the boot next week.

Once I replaced the bearing, I replaced the abs O ring gear, (axle ring), so now I have a functional ABS System, now I have to replace the passenger side wheel bearing which it makes a bit of noise, so next week it will be replaced together with the axle boot.

Here are some pics of the process.

8FA24C9B-4EEB-4B0C-94BC-37FF217632FB.jpeg 8BC54B2C-0A03-4FE2-888C-768D511D160F.jpeg E40DC28E-8F51-4E55-B917-C0EDC9F5AF3E.jpeg A77C9475-D90E-4C30-B8B7-205E8EF81687.jpeg

You can see the wheel bearing when is fully inserted and how it comes out, There was a lot of movement there.

I forgot to mention, I replaced the TPS and that fixed the shifting issues,

The car drives great and is very comfy compared to my weekend dsm, the auto is nice but I hate to deal with auto shifting problems which I know shttt about auto transmissions, and that’s without saying the affects of bad parts on the engine that affects the performance of the transmission, shifting etc etc.

That’s why I love the stick shifts better which you can identify way better and faster is that’s a transmission, clutch or engine problem.
 
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Update.

I replaced the passenger side wheel bearing and at the same time replaced the driver side axle boot, I know, I know, I had to do all the hazle just to replace the axle boot.


Here is the driver side bearing.






16FFAD62-F308-43A7-89E5-97353F6D1670.jpeg


Here is the passenger side evidence.

AB1C7BCE-13E5-416B-A602-D2A2020EC4FC.jpeg




9CFA6E80-801E-4E17-9F81-9DD6E325B943.jpeg




Here is the driver side bearing all ready installed and all surrounding cleaned and dry of grease. I degrease all the area to have a dry and clear surface for future evidence of leaks.

08D0B068-51C5-4F0A-A59E-4F4537176078.jpeg


And here is the passenger side bearing, it’s tight and makes so much noise when I turn it with my hands.

532611E9-559A-4D55-9B0E-31BFC5FA8A54.jpeg
 
Ok being a long time since I was working in the car, so an update of what’s going on.

I was out of state working and I got some family problems, so I put the car on sale and was going to show it, once I was back home., Well I was forced to stay longer at my work and didn’t make it in time to show the car, so I removed the car from the sale for the moment.

I was so frustrated about selling my DD, after all this work and sweat I have put in to it, and now I have to let it go:banghead:

Fortunately, things got solved different way and I no longer have the need of selling the car any more, so here we go. :rocks:

The last times I drove the car, I was having wear shifting problems, then the shifting stuff went away and then after they went away, it didn’t want to go into gear when cold,

After the car was parked on the driveway and seat there for all this time, I try to move the car out and it didn’t go into gear, so I let it seat to let it warm up and after it was warmed, it worked flawless.

The car runs and drives flawless once is warm, but when is cold it doesn’t want to go into gear, it does go into reverse but feels to heavy.
Well, yesterday I had time to go through the easy things like, checking wiring/sensor connections, so my plan was to open the TCU for any burn damage which was one of the things that came on my research, well, everything looked ok until I got to check the oil level., It was 2qt low on oil:confused:.

After adding oil, I let it seat to cool down completely and 6 hours later, I turn it on and vámonos, the car went into gear with no problems:rocks:

When I changed the transmission filter, I remember to get it to the right level:idontknow:

The car is driving flawless now, so I will keep working on maintenance, there is a clucking noise when braking at low speed on the rear driver side, I removed the wheel and couldn’t see anything concerning the brakes system, so all what I did was to add some grease to the brake hardware and use some paste to the back of the pads to eliminate the noise.

After doing all that took a test drive and the noise still there, so I went and remove all again and this time I went deeper and removed the rotor and found the hardware (spring) from the parking brake shoe is weak, the complete brake system moves side to side easily, it is attached right but the spring doesn’t apply enough pressure to the shoes to hold it firm in place, unfortunately, the stores where closed at that time so everything has to get back on, so I will get it fixed once I get the time.

In another hand, the front passenger side ball joint is in its las days, I can hear the clunking noise it produces, but I will get into it once I fixe the brake issue.

Also I got a bad valve cover gasket leak so I will have to go through that too, so keep alert.
 
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Fortunately, things got solved different way and I no longer have the need of selling the car any more, so here we go. :rocks:

Good news! I love this build thread, you're putting in a bunch of work and it's awesome to follow along, thanks!!!
 
Update.

I changed the Ebrake hardware on both sides.

Here are some pics for the viewers.

A79E186C-CD03-40C4-9EDA-6FA13AF2386C.jpeg



I clean all the area and I can see there is no rust around the surface so that makes me opt for painting it and prevent future rust.


54FE315A-C517-4B93-BBAB-F1A9840FF17D.jpeg


I hate to just paint all evenly, I like to paint parts separately, but that will be in the future IF I end up replacing the wheel bearing, but it’s ok for now.

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Here is the final look and to be serious, I hate how it looks with the axle nut painted, Bur at least rust won’t keep growing.

7049F487-C95C-41EF-9566-D5A35AF23003.jpeg


For the record, I drove the car and the noise was gone, It was a good feeling when all was just perfect, But when I was interning the driveway, I can hear the noise coming back:beatentodeath:

Curious, this time the noise wasn’t as a clunk but more as a spring rubbing the disk and only when going slow and applying quite a bit of pressure to the brake,
I even used the Ebrake at the time the noise was present and it didn’t make the noise to go away or change , so that makes me think is just the brake hardware rubbing the disk only when applying pressure to the brake.

I did inspect everything when I removed the complete system and I didn’t see anything wrong and not even signs of rubbing metal or anything, so now I have no choice but to replace the brake pad hardware.

I know is just ridiculous to just replace stuff without making sure it’s in reality the part being bad, but because they are more like maintenance hardware, I have no problem replacing them which they are cheap and easy to install, however I will post later once I replace the hardware to see if it fixes the problem,
 
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A little update.

I bought new rear brake pad hardware to replace them, but it end up to be the Wronge parts, because was to late I couldn’t return them, so I took the time and inspect every single part and did notes some shiny spots where the pads were moving, so I bend the taps a bit to produce a tighter fit to the pads and grease the contact areas and put everything back together, so I test drive it and all seems ok, well will se later on when I drive it for a while and see if the noise went away,.

In a side note, the car will go to my daughters hands, she needs a car and this car is being so reliable that I traer her to take good care of my daughter, because I works outside of state most of the time, I will be gone with a good release knowing everything will be ok and I will check the car once in a while and keep maintenance...

However, she all ready knows that, NO ONE, absolutely NO ONE, can touch her when it comes to repair related.

I still ave to fix minimal stuff like the door light switch, some times the light comes on when opening the door but some times it doesn’t and I have to wiggle the switch or at lots fought it to make it work, I. Sure is false contact but will see.
 
Yea It’s just the transmission that I don’t trust jet.
It’s being really good but in the morning when is cold, it takes a bit to go forward, or better say it goes but very slow, like if there is not much oil pressure and once it warms up is completely gone.

I just want her to take care of her till I come back which is 2 months, once I get here I will change the end clutches to see if it fixes the problem.
 
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