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2G electrical problem

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david caldwell

Probationary Member
10
0
Feb 2, 2019
Warrensburg, Missouri
I have a 96 gst rebuild engine reinstalled with upgrades. moved battery to trunk then removed a non-working viper 4105V remote start system. now with the battery hooked up and no key in the ignition the SRS, oil, battery, brake, washer fluid low lite are on and the power windows work, wipers, turn signals will work but it will not start and fuel pump will not come on.

All of the wires that I disconnected were just teed into the cars wiring. it all worked fine before. any help would be appreciated very much need to get it running soon.
thanks David.
 
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Hey as far as the remote start most of the time the starter wire gets cut and split between two wires from the rs module I've never done one personally on an eclipse and it also varys module to module..but if dash and features work with no key then to me seems like the ignition wire is getting signal from somewhere..but then you also have relocated battery how is that hooked up?
 
Check where these wires were tapped
 

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Hey as far as the remote start most of the time the starter wire gets cut and split between two wires from the rs module I've never done one personally on an eclipse and it also varys module to module..but if dash and features work with no key then to me seems like the ignition wire is getting signal from somewhere..but then you also have relocated battery how is that hooked up?
ran a 00 cable from trunk area to a distribution block under the hood by the fuse box then ran the 4 white hot wire to the dist block. the ground at the battery is to the body in the trunk area and then the ground from the block to the strut tower, then the remote wires were just teed into the cars harness you can unplug the ignition switch and it doesn't change a thing.
 
Check where these wires were tapped
they are teed off the ignition switch wires none were cut in half

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The problem is the ignition current source, it’s direct to the battery.

Trace the line to see where you connected to, or at least take some pics of videos how the wiring is routed to see if we can spot something.
The problem is the ignition current source, it’s direct to the battery.

Trace the line to see where you connected to, or at least take some pics of videos how the wiring is routed to see if we can spot something.

the 4 white wires came straight off of the battery when battery was under the hood. I have a wiring harness coming . in the pic you can see the power wire coming into the power bar is the red wire and the starter power wire is below it the white wires straight are the feed wire to the fuse box under the hood.
 
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Is that all you did (wiring wise)?
No fuse box relocation or didn’t touch any other wire?.
You mention You T some wires but weren’t cut, can you explain that.

If that all you did then you might have something else going on, because of the remote start alarm, they might it wired it wrong.

Check the harness or take pics under the ignition switch, they usually do the mess under the steering column, the switch wire has being jumped for some reason.

You just have to trace it and find where is the connection.
 
Is that all you did (wiring wise)?
No fuse box relocation or didn’t touch any other wire?.
You mention You T some wires but weren’t cut, can you explain that.

If that all you did then you might have something else going on, because of the remote start alarm, they might it wired it wrong.

Check the harness or take pics under the ignition switch, they usually do the mess under the steering column, the switch wire has being jumped for some reason.

You just have to trace it and find where is the connection.
I have the wiring diagrams for the car and the remote start system they just sliced the casing off of the wire and soldered the remote start wires. I am a old guy but young at heart first one with all of this electronics on it for me. been a meachanic all my life this thing is driving me nuts. just wish I ccould find that wire that's messed up. thanks for the help
 
Do you have a diagram for your car? What year is it, give us info on the model and all to guide you better. I can guide you on every single wire to trace the problem.

Just to have it clear, it was all right but you relocate the battery and removed the alarm then all this happened right?, or the alarm was in when this happened?

Edit, I just realized you have a diagram.
 
Do you have a diagram for your car? What year is it, give us info on the model and all to guide you better. I can guide you on every single wire to trace the problem.

Just to have it clear, it was all right but you relocate the battery and removed the alarm then all this happened right?, or the alarm was in when this happened?
yes moved battery and then removed alarm now all of this. the car is 96 gst with a automatic and yes I have the wiring diagram for the car.
 
Ok at the ignition key, remove the ignition connector, it’s a 6 pin connector with heavy wires.
Check current on the pins, there should be only one with positive, if my suspicions are right, you are going to fin 2 pins with current (+).

Check the connector and report back if you find 2 wires with current, take a pic and put it in here showing which wires are hot.
 
Ok at the ignition key, remove the ignition connector, it’s a 6 pin connector with heavy wires.
Check current on the pins, there should be only one with positive, if my suspicions are right, you are going to fin 2 pins with current (+).

Check the connector and report back if you find 2 wires with current, take a pic and put it in here showing which wires are hot.
yes one thicker white one and a smaller black and white one I am trying to figure out were it goes but trying to fallow the diagrams that I have from page to page is a pain. and thanks again for the help
 
Ok so all 3 wires you mentioned have current?
one is black with a white stripe and one white I no the white one is suppose to be a hot wire the other black with white stripe is not hot till I turn the key. its hard to follow the wiring diagrams from page to page'
 
You definitely need to trace the black with white stripe. it should not get power until key

White is constant feed, black/white ignition output of key cylinder keeps power during cranking, blue/black is accessory output from key cylinder it loses power during cranking
 

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Good diagram Jpenny.
OP, if you are seeing power on the black with white stripe wire, disconnect the connector from the switch itself and check again, if you don’t see current on the black with white stripe wire, then your switch is shorting, BUT, If you still see power on the black with stripe wire then, you need to fallow the wire to see where was hot wired.
 
So only one wire is hot without turning the key, or better say, with the key off? Sorry I just didn’t understand.
with the key switch unplugged I get the white and the black and white stripped wire have power so back and white striped wire is messed up some where or a relay stuck I am thinking or a module is messed up
 
I got the unwanted power problem figured out but now the fuel pump and the starter aren't working. this car is driving me nuts
 
Ok so what you found or you did to fix problem, and what exactly is the new problem, is just the fuel pump and starter?..

Be a bit more specific so we know what you are doing and have a better understanding on what’s going on.

well i am going to start this over. removed engine rebuilt and reinstalled with upgrades, it ran just fine before electrical was disconnected for a year moved battery to trunk then I removed a viper alarm then hooked up the battery to check everything messed up. the reverse light is feeding the black and white wire to the key switch but cant figure out from where. but with the fuse taken out the dash light, windows, turn signals and the key will work like it should but I still have no power to the fuel pump and car wont turn over.

The immobilzer is messing up. It has a fuse for it, pulled fuse and test for power and getting a 12 on one side the about 6 on the opposite side of where the fuse is plugged in at where there shouldn't be anything the you hear a relay or something click and the 6 volt sied goes away so I pt the fuse the beginninge back in horn does a quick beep and then I am back to the beginning. f

I forgot I had the ecu out of the car too and had hooked up the battery maybe that has something to do with it.

This thing is a big pain got over 4 grand in the motor and upgrades. About ready to sell it for 3 grand but really want to go play with for a little bit.

thanks for the help.
 
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