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rabenne's street car

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Yeah no bueno to leave it without a baffle. It’s going to push out any oil that’s in the vicinity. Wished they had threw the bigger ar on to see how much of a difference it makes.

Same! I really hope I have the funding to do so. I have been secretly stashing away EVO X parts with my spare pennies and I can see that getting out of hand at some point. I want to dump ALL my money into ALL of my cars!
 
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I test fit it on a spare block and a couple holes need enlarged. Otherwise good fit. What kind of issues did u run into? The only leak I have is the one I made by welding the fitting on poorly, but I have heard of others having pan to main cap clearance issues. I haven't test fit it on the engine in the car yet, so there may still be surprises...

Holes didn't line up, crank hits, main studs, wasn't flat, leaked from around flange, no hole for factory dipstick. I put pictures in my build thread. I am running a stroker, so that may introduce extra clearance issues.
 
Holes didn't line up, crank hits, main studs, wasn't flat, leaked from around flange, no hole for factory dipstick. I put pictures in my build thread. I am running a stroker, so that may introduce extra clearance issues.

I have checked the bolt hole alignment against a stock pan and two or three will need widened up. The flange wasnt flat on mine either, but I was able to correct a lot of it by hammering the flange flat against a reference surface. Whether it seals or not remains to be seen. Based on the posts in your build thread, I think I may end up just trying to hammer the pan out around the interfering main caps and rod bolts. I see that one is right on the edge of the sump junction, so if it just wont happen, I might try what you did.

My other thought was maybe just buy a 1/4" thick sheet of 5052 aluminum in 12X18 and laser cut a perfect flange based on 3d laser scanned data. Then I can surface the existing flange with a fly cutter (however far it needs to go to be flat) and then weld on my new flange (with proper bolt hole locations). Then the entire pan drops 1/4" MINUS amount of material removed from original flange before welding it on. Hopefully 1/8" + 1/4" = 3/8" flange. Once thats welded on, I can fly cut the new flange to have an entirely flat pan that will not interfere with the mains/rod bolts, etc.

It wont be real cheap, the material will probably be $70-80 and laser cutting isnt free, but it almost seems like an easier route than grinding and laying more material down until you are low enough in all the spots that interfere. Especially when I think about all the test fitting and crawling under the car to do so.

After doing it your way, would you recommend the same fix or would you consider welding a new flange on?
 
Got some work done tonight... I installed the kiggly valve springs, kiggly hla, and kelford 264 cams (small, yes I know). I also prepped the exhaust manifold gasket surface (not shown) for the new MF parts going on.

The oil pan still seeps from my crappy weld, so that needs attention. The valve cover is getting dropped for powder coat later this week, and hopefully will have a nice quick turnaround.

Tomorrow I am going to see how well I am able to degree the cams with the engine in the car... I have a dial indicator setup that should work, two solid lifters, two test springs and a magnetic degree wheel. It might take a few tries to get consistent measurements, but once I figure it out I will just install the cams to kelfords spec for now.

I chose the AEM trutime for the EVO 8/9 instead of the DSM set because I dont utilize the intake cam sensor on the gear like early 2gs, and the DSM gears have provisions for that sensor, which in my opinion look shitty. The only issue with the evo 8/9 gears is they dont have the side timing marks like DSM gears. I transferred the marks over from the stock gears with a red paint pen for now (not shown in pic, not actually installed yet.). I have to say it looks like a pretty damn clean engine for something that got assembled in 2007...

Please ignore that I didnt clean up the silicon from the VCG last time... I just wanted to get the cams torqued and I will deal with that when I put the new VC/VCG on.

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Got my second wg finally, might have to do some test fitting today. See if the rad needs changed/modified, measure for the intake pipe, double check the oil feed and drain parts, etc.

The cams can wait a day... I have all weekend to dial them in, and get the turbo parts on. Still havent dealt with the oil pan...

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Well, test fitting is going pretty well... The radiator hose clears the wastegate with enough room to put a heat sleeve over the rad hose.

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Also found the intake pipe is a bit long/tall for the plan, so it will need hacked up and a large section cut out of the middle. Should work nicely otherwise.
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Took the oil pan back for welding another attempt to fix the leak... still didnt get it. I think there are pinholes in the fitting itself at this point, so I am going to cut it off and weld it to a plate, then weld the plate to the pan. hopefully I have better luck that way... if not, Ill have to figure out what I am going to do for the giant oil return setup.. maybe leave the stock pan on there...
 

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@TK's9d2TSi It'll be fine... Remember this is a coolant hose that has an extremely high heat capacity fluid flowing thru it. Radiant heat is the issue and cheap hose sleeves are really effective at protecting against radiant heat.

I doubt ill have issues, but if I do, I will remember I said, "it'll be fine..."

Unfortunately the spyder radiator is no different, based on the one I just sold... dead center...
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I will probably just buy a 1g rad (if necessary) since the upper hose placement is better for my application and they are super easy to adapt for a 2g. The thought of trying to weld aluminum again makes me cry a little LOL.
 
I probably should have started there TBH. I thought tig welding was supposed to be a better option, and I still do want to learn... but I am ready to let my buddy do it instead.
 
Well I chopped down the intake pipe and it ended up just about perfect. It is a bit tight to the upper IC pipe, but it clears and puts the filter in roughly the right spot.

Filter took some damage trying to get the bead on the 4" pipe to go into the flange. I ended up using a heat gun to soften the rubber and it slipped right in... ill have to remember that for the replacement filter...

Excuse my messes...
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Also stuck the magnetic degree wheel I printed to the fluidampr, and eyeballed what it would take to make a pointer for it. Should work out nicely.

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Looking at the pan i do see some pin holez on the inside, it also seems like some of the weld never took to the excisting weld either. One thing with alloy welding is you have to down slope the pedal or amps as it makes holes if you just stop. I learnt this with alloy welding. If you got any oil or dirt then thats not a good weld and will also create a possible issue for you.

Have you located the exact point of it leaking?
 
Looking at the pan i do see some pin holez on the inside, it also seems like some of the weld never took to the excisting weld either. One thing with alloy welding is you have to down slope the pedal or amps as it makes holes if you just stop. I learnt this with alloy welding. If you got any oil or dirt then thats not a good weld and will also create a possible issue for you.

Have you located the exact point of it leaking?

Yes, it was actually leaking thru the fitting itself... i burnt a hole in it. ill post a pic when I cut it off to start over..

My buddy's welder ramps down the amps automatically when you let off, but I still have seen what you are talking about... He says this sheet aluminum is really trashy metal, which kinda makes sense for a bootleg moroso pan. I am toying with the idea of just welding a box to my stock pan for a sump extension... didnt you do this at one point @ec17pse ?

I do have some friends that can weld, so I think its going to end up costing me some beer to get this done finally. I dont want to keep messing up parts and grinding everything back down... LOL
 
Yes, it was actually leaking thru the fitting itself... i burnt a hole in it. ill post a pic when I cut it off to start over..

My buddy's welder ramps down the amps automatically when you let off, but I still have seen what you are talking about... He says this sheet aluminum is really trashy metal, which kinda makes sense for a bootleg moroso pan. I am toying with the idea of just welding a box to my stock pan for a sump extension... didnt you do this at one point @ec17pse ?

I do have some friends that can weld, so I think its going to end up costing me some beer to get this done finally. I dont want to keep messing up parts and grinding everything back down... LOL
If its through it then its had it. Some are thin walled and dont work well, re looking at your fitting it dont even have a base to weld onto so all that heat will melt the thin wall. Thats a hard one to do actually as your likely going from 1.5mm to what 3mm on the pan? As for material its likely normal 1050 sheel, its easy to fold and weld but not super strong but for its job it dont need to be as if its going to get damaged it will very easily.

I did weld an expansion on the front of my oem pan. Got just under 1 QT more oil capacity as i also raised the cover inside up so it traps more oil
 
@ec17pse I remember a video with a hose..?

The fitting comes with a very large flange, and has to be turned down to be welded on from the inside (too large otherwise). The fitting is super thin walled, but still much thicker than the pan material. Its super thin, like .070" or 1.75mm. Going to give it another shot when the new fitting comes Saturday. Decent plan but poor execution... I just suck at tig welding really badly. Its clumsy and its one step forward and two steps back. Nice thing is my buddy is just laughing confidently that he can fix whatever I mess up.

I test fitted the pan to a spare 6 bolt block I had in the shed, and it actually fits pretty decent. I will admit I had to clean up some of the factory welds that rubbed on the suitcase handle... and I will have to open up almost half of the bolt holes to get them to align well enough. They are all just a shade off in one direction. A die grinder can make them into ovals and im good to go there.

The only thing I haven't been able to check is rod clearance with the stroker crank since my spare block is all stock. Might have to do what PK did...
 
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