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2G Head gasket replacement question .

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Terrj

Proven Member
101
7
Oct 22, 2016
atlantic, New_Jersey
So i had the timing done a while back at the shop without replacing the head gasket and now it's blown, rookie mistake, i should've placed it along with everything else when it was off. My question is can i take off the head and replace the head gasket without messing up the timing mark ? Do i need to replace the head bolts ? What else do i need to replace when i take the head off besides the head gasket ?
 
Might as well do head studs if you don't already have them. Otherwise it's just common sense, like any questionable gaskets or seals.
I already have ARP studs installed and did the whole timing job .

No, removing the head means removing the timing belt and messing up the timing.
Really ? I just watched a video and this guy zip tied the time belt to the cam gear after rotating them to tdc , can i do just that and put them back the way it was originally ?
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I suppose you could, but you still need a way to compress the tensioner, and if your a novice its a dangerous move to try in any event just to save a few minutes of proper work, its up to you though if you think you are able to pull it off, just go into it knowing that if you jack it up your bending valves.
 
I suppose you could, but you still need a way to compress the tensioner, and if your a novice its a dangerous move to try in any event just to save a few minutes of proper work, its up to you though if you think you are able to pull it off, just go into it knowing that if you jack it up your bending valves.
Yea ive asked around so far and the zip ties method seem to work pretty well if youre not touching the timing, I should be ok with just replacing the head gasket...hopefully
 
If you can remove the head, lining up the timing marks is easy. Literally takes a few minutes and it’s not a big deal. Make sure the rear balancer is in the correct phase since it can be out 180* and set the tension on tbelt.
 
Without that kit the timing belt job is almost unbearable. I would also just go ahead and get the head resurfaced and inspect the block for straightness seeing as you actually blew the headgasket.

Also correct me if I am wrong but pretty sure you have to rotate the whole assembly 3-4 times anyway to make sure that the balancer shaft is aligned correctly (if you still have yours) so ziptie just seems like an unnecessary step. Or at least that's what the instructional I followed told me to do.

While you have everything off go ahead and upgrade things you planned on upgrading anyway as this is the most access you will have to your engine bay and engine itself, replace gaskets as you go because why not they are cheap as dirt anyway.

Edit: not 6 times that's overkill
 
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@Mello, I will PM you when I get home and let you know what the pitch and size and length are. They were super easy to make. A coupling nut from my Ace Hardware, a regular nut under it all on a pc of metric all thread. I welded the coupling nut to the ends after threading them most of the way on, and left a regular nut, like a jam nut, under it on the rod just in case you need to chase the threads from a funky block or rusty set of threads.
I mean, it really isn't costing $50 bucks to make one. I had to buy the full 5' length of all thread but after that it was very simple.
 
I just did my head gasket. I have the extremepsi timing tool kit, without it it would be nearly impossible to get the belt on and set the tension correctly. It is worth every penny.

Your ARP studs are reusable.

I would buy the timing tools and forget zip tying the belt on, that will just be an extra hassle when you're trying to take the head off.
 
I just did my head gasket. I have the extremepsi timing tool kit, without it it would be nearly impossible to get the belt on and set the tension correctly. It is worth every penny.

Your ARP studs are reusable.

I would buy the timing tools and forget zip tying the belt on, that will just be an extra hassle when you're trying to take the head off.
Yea i just gotta replace the head gasket not the whole timing belt job, i was gonna do the zip tie method but i guess i gotta buy the kit then
 
You can't remove the head without at least taking the tension off the timing belt, and then re-tensioning it, which is difficult without the kit.

I'd just take the belt off, half the time the cam gear bolts are stuck anyway. I had one hell of a time removing mine to replace the cam seals.
 
You don't have to have those tools but after you use them 1 time, you'll be glad you have them! :)
 
Yea i just bought the tools, one question though : do i have to take off the lower cover to get access to the tensioner ?
 
You have to take off all the plastic timing belt covers. There is a mid one as well thats a pain in the ass to get off without breaking... There is a really good how to/FAQ on head removal floating around the forum someplace
 
Really ? I just watched a video and this guy zip tied the time belt to the cam gear after rotating them to tdc , can i do just that and put them back the way it was originally ?
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Shortcuts are just that. You still have to check marks and set tension. There is no other way to be sure. You cant just slide it off and slide it on. It doesn't work that way. It's too hard to get the belt on or stuff bolted up with the belt under tension. 100s of timing belts. I take it apart every time.

You have to take off all the plastic timing belt covers. There is a mid one as well thats a pain in the ass to get off without breaking... There is a really good how to/FAQ on head removal floating around the forum someplace
FYI take the two studs out of the motor mount and the middle cover isn't a problem.
 
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FYI take the two studs out of the motor mount and the middle cover isn't a problem.

Yeah I did that I remember having to jocky it out though even with engine jacked up to give better access... Could have just been brittle plastic . cost me $10 to replace... And yes it's recommended to jack the engine up once you have removed the bolts to the driver side engine mount. Putting several pieces of cardboard on the jack and using the oil pan as the lifting point worked well for me didn't dent the pan whatsoever. You will have to lower and raise the engine as you go to grant access to different parts of the engine
 
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