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1G Exhaust manifold blood red during idle

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wolf alchemy

Proven Member
724
14
Mar 4, 2014
kouts, Indiana
Rebuilt engine, and also friend put on jumper cables backwards at night to jump.

New ECU, cam sensor bolted to original position, and then removed to spin 180. Also hooked up 3in gm with maft sensor set up properly, No change
Won't idle without help of throttle. Mechanic who installed new engine blamed a clogged catalytic converter, but upon feeling exhaust pressure coming out, it feels the same as it always has, maybe more pressure, but could be due to higher idle, than normal. I'm bad electrical wise, can't read ECU to get any idea of what sensors could be bad, might any one have an idea what sensors to start replacing?
 
Do you have any way to get a log? Also what's your afr? If your manifold is turning red at idle that thing could be mad lean. Have you checked timing? And also verify there are no air leaks.

Also get some diagrams of all your engine connections, water, oil, electrical etc. And just skim through your engine bay to verify it's all good.
 
Currently. No way to log yet, and no a/f gauge installed. Have one that was going to be installed after rebuilt engine was installed, but she's a f***ing wreck. XD yet she's still a hot mess. Honestly thinking of sending it to a shop...which scares the shit out of me due to a shop killing her in the first place....along with my dumb assery. Don't ask. Bad timming tensioner is all I'll say.

Do you have any way to get a log? Also what's your afr? If your manifold is turning red at idle that thing could be mad lean. Have you checked timing? And also verify there are no air leaks.

Also get some diagrams of all your engine connections, water, oil, electrical etc. And just skim through your engine bay to verify it's all good.
 
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Get a timing light and check your timing.. My guess is you are far too advanced.
Even with the cam set to it's original position? It was worse before because the dumbass didn't time it at all and had it waaay off from it's original position

I can't keep her running long enough for one to pop up? also running her like that honestly freaks me out. Lol
Any check engine lights?

Before any one else comments, and I start to feel overloaded. I'll go through the advice above, and if none of that works I'll post that she's still a hot mess. Will be in a couple weeks. Work two jobs without a single day off. XD don't do it. It's not worth it boys and gals. One job and overtime.
 
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Even with the cam set to it's original position? It was worse before because the dumbass didn't time it at all and had it waaay off from it's original position
Yes, you cant really "eye ball" it you can try moving the sensor either direction to get it to idle, then hit it with the timing light and set it properly to spec.. (5* before TDC)
 
Yes, you cant really "eye ball" it you can try moving the sensor either direction to get it to idle, then hit it with the timing light and set it properly to spec.. (5* before TDC)
I personally can. XD theres literally one circle on one side from the washer, and then a smaller circle on top from the bolt. Lol, but I kinda get what you mean

Found... Possibly that my engine is wrecked.... Why do I seriously trust people....
 

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I have a 90 GSX that was off 1 or 2 teeth and it survived, I change the timing belt and tensioner (that was the bad part) and she is running fine.
Have you done a compression test yet, that'll give you some data.
 
Vacuum lines were incorrectly hooked up. Who knows what else is wrong timming wise. Found a shop who's owner actually owned a Plymouth Lazer. American Complete Auto Repair. Located in Merriville, Indiana. So I'm sending it to them.... Only because I sincerly don't have time. If it was just sensors, then I could, but yeah... Two jobs. Daily 2 hours of sleep. Work every single day. If there wasn't any snow or crazy heavy rain. I'd work for years without a day off. XD hope you guys aren't disappointed.
 
Just ask questions. Double check the work and ask how they set the tension and did they use a go/no go gauge or something to measure. Eyeball won't cut it for tension. You may sound like an ass but it's your money.
 
Just ask questions. Double check the work and ask how they set the tension and did they use a go/no go gauge or something to measure. Eyeball won't cut it for tension. You may sound like an ass but it's your money.
I didn't know you could adjust the tension? I thought the tensioner was a set standard pressure on the belt yes?
 
Do your research on what you are asking them to do before you bring it to them. That way when you explain things to them you sound confident and know what you are talking about. They are less likely to get over on someone that knows their stuff, unless they are just dumbasses and have no idea how to work on cars.
 
I didn't know you could adjust the tension? I thought the tensioner was a set standard pressure on the belt yes?

There is a specific range that the auto-tensioner works within, and without doing the proper timing belt tension procedure, it will be overtensioned or at the end of it's travel. This is why the t-belt procedure is so important to do correctly.
 
There is a specific range that the auto-tensioner works within, and without doing the proper timing belt tension procedure, it will be overtensioned or at the end of it's travel. This is why the t-belt procedure is so important to do correctly.
What he said. Who did that tbelt job anyway? Make them redo it.
 
So. Here's an update. They checked the timing and only the cam gear was off. Everything else was fine. Did a compression check, and cylinders 3 and 4 are low. Don't remember which is which, but one is 95 and the other is 100. Other 2 cylinders are at 198. They say the pistons probably hit the valves. Will a cylinder head rebuild or just buying a 2g head already assembled get her running possibly? Because to me it seems weird that only two went bad. You all will know for sure what's up from the compression check and from my photo above if the pistons hit the valves.
 
You are assuming no pistons are damaged. The only way to be sure is take it apart, assess and repair the damage found. Leakdown would help you pinpoint further
 
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