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rabenne's street car

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Bummer! She didnt pass the leak test... Dripping from the left side glob (yea I am bad at TIG). The weld just needs filler in one spot on the inside where I must have missed a hole. :ohdamn:

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Filled it to the brim, well, just over the welds holding the flange on. No leaks except the fitting! Sweet!
 
Got the fittings welded into the VC, and closed up my hole on the oil pan. Still need to repeat the leak test, but I can't imagine its still leaking.

VC fittings were black anodized but the heat turned them gold. Kinda looks steam punk or something a it sits. Hopefully the powder coating I chose actually looks good on this thing!

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Water tested both the pan and the valve cover. Both leak. Shite! Attempt #3 on the pan coming tonight... This shouldn't be this hard, I must REALLY suck at this LOL!
 
Ya I dont have a tank big enough to submerge and look for bubbles, but Its easy to shim it level and fill it... looks like whatever I did to fix the leak before didnt change anything, still weeping from the same spot.

The VC has two pits that leak on one side and one on the other. The casting seems really dirty and keeps pulling shit to the surface... Ill just keep adding filler on filler and grind it clean before I powder coat it.

It would be easier but every time I go over there I do 20 mins of work and end up bullshit until 11pm and getting nothing else done. My buddy is nearing final assembly stage on his cummins diesel powered prius build and the other EVOs and fast cars in the shop make it easy to stand around and talk about cars for hours...

The PriCum went "viral" when he put the mock-up on the dyno (mostly for the purposes of making some smoke)...
 
He did everything himself, including the 4 link back-half. Really talented engineer and dedicated to the projects. Everything fits under the stock body panels, and 95% of the interior still goes in it. The wheels are factory prius wheels only widened by hacking up other wheels and welding them together. Its going to be fairly sleeper until you hear it. His other car is a geo metro with a 3.8L GM FWD drivetrain in the back, with gobs and gobs of nitrous. The kid makes my projects feel super trivial (which they are).
 
didnt make it out to my buddy's place tonight so I just started mocking up a plan for the baffle. I am going to use this CAD (cardboard aided design) template to trim the stock baffles, and use the stock aluminum tab/rivets to weld globs onto and hold it in place. I only drilled them to the minimum required for removal, so it "clicks" into place when I push it over them. Just drop a glob on that "rivet" and large enough to not let the steel baffle pull back out, should be good to go... probably like all my other plans that are going so well LOL

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Started working on making some solid adjustable lifters to help with degreeing the cams. Ripped apart some spare lifters. Welded a nut to the bottom of the plunger, then ground it down to fit back in the lifter. Then I threaded in a bolt of proper length, and ground down the head where it would fit inside the lifter body.

Then I took about a foot of solder and balled it up in the bottom of the lifter. I use a propane torch to get the lifter hot, which melted the solder into a pool on the bottom. Then I stuck the plunger in the lifter (with the bolt threaded into it) and took the flame away. After the solder cooled it trapped the head of the bolt in the bottom of the lifter body.

Now when I turn the plunger it threads up and down on the bolt soldered into the lifter.

Not a great solution, and probably not worth the time it takes versus buying a part from STM, but it was fun to mess around....

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Printed a degree wheel on magnetic backed paper. It's small, but simple, and should be easy to use. Also finished off the second adjustable lifter.

Plan is to match the hole in the degree wheel to the hole on the fluidamper by using a razor and compass. Then I can slap it on there and align it by the center bore rather than eyeball it.

Any reasons this wont work? Play devil's advocate for me?

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Good luck on the oil pan. It took me forever to get that thing to fit my car and be leak free. Did you test fit it yet?


I test fit it on a spare block and a couple holes need enlarged. Otherwise good fit. What kind of issues did u run into? The only leak I have is the one I made by welding the fitting on poorly, but I have heard of others having pan to main cap clearance issues. I haven't test fit it on the engine in the car yet, so there may still be surprises...
 
Good gain from just a few degrees on this video. I'm definitely degreeing when I build the bottom end.




Nice video, never seen these guys before. I would probably call what they are doing cam tuning rather than cam "degreeing". I always thought degreeing was a term for initial setup to ensure the cam is set at mfg suggested spec with relation to the crankshaft. Maybe I am using that term too specifically. Either way, both are in the future of this setup!
 
They’re mainly Honda guys but Brett tunes anything that’s tunable. They’ve had a hand full of dsm’s ever since they got the awd dyno going.

I not too versed in it but thought that’s what they’re doing to a certain degree. Obviously not the precise way but they did squeeze some good numbers from a simple adjustment.
 
Heck yes they did! and they alluded to the possibilities if truly "degreed" later in the video. I am not certain they would necessarily make more power like they assume. MFG spec for cam position versus ideal spec for HP for cam position could be quite a bit different, and without taking a lot of time to do the testing, its hard to know where they might have landed. Somewhere in the middle? Hard to say they couldnt have milked another 40whp out of more cam timing changes. Either way it IS a great demonstration of why adjustable cam gears are handy.
 
I think he also served as a good example of why you need some sort of baffling between the oil getting flung around and the valve cover fittings. I left pretty big gaps on mine because I didn't want to hinder airflow while reducing the odds that anything is squirting oil directly at/into the fittings. Guess I will find out how it works before too long. Matt expects my parts to be done this week!
 
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