I would start looking for a stronger crank when you want to make 700+ HP

I've seen several stock cranks go in the 700whp range on the dyno. And read on here or the link forums of several doing more. For your goal, a spec'd stock crank is all you need.

For your goal, a spec'd stock crank is all you need.[/QUOTE]

Spec'd? What does that mean. and i found the eagle rods and wiseco pistons but i dont think the rods come with bearings. Where can i get the right bearings? Also can i just clean up the crank that i have now or do i have to machine it. it looks pretty good. I have an extra block that i will use and build so that i dont have to have my car apart for a long time i can just build the block and swap it out in a weekend or two.

here is where i gound the pistons
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/wiseco/apps-Mitsubishi.html
(K559M85) are the ones im looking at

here is where i found the rods
http://www.stikiller.com/product.php?productid=16659

What do you think??

plasty gauge the crank first to see if it needs to be ground down, if it checks out good just have a shop micro polish it.

im pretty sure its good but ill check anyways

Make sure your car is a 6 bolt before buying rods and pistons. For your goal, you don't even need to buy rods or pistons.

how did the engine take a crap? spun rod bearing, rod in the block, or just burns oil?
you may just want to find a new set of 2g pistons and use your rods if they are in good shape.
if you do end up going with the eagle, and wiseco setup then you will need to have it fully balanced, if you want to get high milage out of it.

i was on the highway going 80 and the oil cooler behind the filter came undone. the bolt holding it on backed off about an inch and the oil dumped out. i shut it off within like 10 seconds of noticing my oil pressure and coasted till i stopped. i took it home figured out the problem torqued it to specs and got a new filter and oil and started it up. I have a knocking sound and my dipstick and oil cap both have horrible blowby. my dipstic looks like an exhaust pipe with oil and gas popping out of it. i just rebuilt it 4000 miles ago so if this time im not going stock.

2slow4utsi said:

Make sure your car is a 6 bolt before buying rods and pistons. For your goal, you don't even need to buy rods or pistons.

Click to expand...

its a 6 bolt.

c_k06 said:

i was on the highway going 80 and the oil cooler behind the filter came undone. the bolt holding it on backed off about an inch and the oil dumped out. i shut it off within like 10 seconds of noticing my oil pressure and coasted till i stopped. i took it home figured out the problem torqued it to specs and got a new filter and oil and started it up. I have a knocking sound and my dipstick and oil cap both have horrible blowby. my dipstic looks like an exhaust pipe with oil and gas popping out of it. i just rebuilt it 4000 miles ago so if this time im not going stock.



its a 6 bolt.

Click to expand...

If you're knocking, chances are the crank isn't good in its current shape.

ArticNemesis said:

If you're knocking, chances are the crank isn't good in its current shape.

Click to expand...

ill second that
personal experience with a 20valve 4age
my x mr2 did the same thing to me a while back, i didnt have oil pressure gauge though. (the sensor went out earlier that week)

i threw some new bearings in.. the crank ground the new ones out in under a month.



i loved that car

if your crank is boned, get a stock one and have it checked out like stated above.

Yes of coarse the crank is not good in its shape but it just needs a little machine work. I did the same thing as him years back and welded the number one rod to the crank. Cheap machine shop visit and good as new.

On a side note the 6 bolt crank has held up to some very high HP numbers in the 2.0L setup. Some even think the 7 bolts are stronger as long as you take care of the over rated crank walk problem.

i have an extra block and crank that im gonna build and then in a weekend or two ill drop it in. this crank is good

There's nothing wrong with cutting the crank. It was $20 cheaper for me than a used $150 crank with unvouched history. Plus I got the magnaflux and proof that it was perfectly straight included, as anyone would when a reputable shop cuts down a crank.

How much did you pay to have your block and crank redone?

I paid $130 for the crank. And $140 for a bore/hone. I stripped the block and pulled the crank my self of course.

Found this post in a google search. Figured I’d chime in that we make 1300+ with a stock 6-bolt crank.