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2G Oiling issues

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ZACH 99 GST

Proven Member
47
16
Jul 15, 2015
Memphis, Tennessee
So the car has not been started in over a year and it seems like everything has been changed, but the only internal components swapped were cams, springs, retainers, and oil squirters out of a 1g 7 bolt for clearance. It’s finally time to start everything up so we go to prime it and it never gets oil pressure on the guage or the light. I ran a Mitsubishi part number MD132912 oil filter housing so I could use an external oil cooler. After continuously turning the motor over with the injectors unplugged with no spark plugs in I never got any oil pressure. The pickup tube was installed exactly how it was before the motor was taken out, there’s really no way you can do it wrong anyways. The idea that there was no oil pressure came from number one the light and the gauge not showing it and number two the oil cooler never got oil to it. So assuming something was wrong I started taking everything apart thinking no oil had been moved, but there was a quart missing when I drained it. Turns out that quart made it to the filter but never made it to the cooler which makes me believe it wasn’t making it to the sensors either. I’m not 100 percent sure how the oil flows chronologically through the housing. I might should add that this is a 6 bolt block. So, I was under the assumption that that housing would work on any year from everything I read in my research. Is that true, and or has anyone else run into this issue? Another thing that crossed my mind is does that aluminum housing have any plastic in it? Reason being, it took a lot of heat and a lot of effort to get the plug out for the turbo feed line and I don’t know if something could have been melted internally? The pump has 30k miles on it and the fact oil got to the filter leads me to believe there is nothing wrong with it or the pickup tube. Any ideas?
 
I would imagine you really need to be cranking the engine like realllllly cranking it in order to build significant pressure, i imagine i am also a bit ignorant in this subject as well. Hope this jafro video helps you! His videos are great!!
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Sorry, I thought you were cranking by hand as its quite a bit to read. So you're cranking using the starter with the spark plugs out? Even so from what I read just now it won't build significant pressure for sensors to pick up (some guy was saying 5 psi?). This could be why you are reading nil on your gauges, might not be a detectable amount even with the starter being used to crank. Sounds like you've got it primed up though.

EDIT: I believe you are using the correct ofh if you have a 6 bolt
 
That video was awesome, I didn’t come across that earlier, but from what I see there’s an issue between the filter and oil cooler in the housing. I am currently pulling it off for inspection. But I believe I was getting pressure somewhere to get it to the filter, but it never made it to the cooler. That’s the concern.
 
And if it doesn’t make it to the cooler than it wouldn’t make it to the sensor according to the diargram.
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There’s oil in this hole but not the other one. But from the diagram that seems like it would be the exit because it is right next to the sensor.
 
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There’s oil in every part of the housing except for this hole
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and the two bungs on the back for the actual cooler maybe I am going about this wrong but I am at a loss
 
You just haven't gotten oil all the way through the cooler, you'd have to crank for a very long period of time to get it that far. I'm surprised you got it as far as you did.

Just start the car for a few seconds to see if pressure builds. With oil as far as it was, you should see pressure very quickly.

The other (correct) way to do this, is remove the timing belt (or better yet, before you install the timing belt) and spin the oil pump sprocket with a drill. Once primed, reinstall belt like normal.
 
Fire it up! your not going to get oil through a new filter by just cranking it unless you want to buy a new starter, and possibly a new flywheel, and you aren't going to build enough pressure to turn the light out that way either, if its wet up to the filter its working, dont over think this thing, run it, the same thing happens when you change the oil and filter in any car, there are a few seconds of running with no pressure until the air is forced out of the system and the filter gauze is soaked.
 
On a 1990 OFH, the thermostat that opens up to allow oil flow to the cooler is around 180*.
I, personally, DO get oil pressure and I turn the light off doing exacly what you are doing. I spin the motor with the starter, without plugs in, and it normall takes several spins and about the time you think it won't prime, the light goes out.
I assemble ALL of my components with assembly lube, including the inside of the oil pump and they always prime right up.
Just a few things to point out. I think you are going to be ok also, but I do prime the way you are trying, the only difference being I have assembly lube in the pump, which is thicker and sticky so it makes the pump gears pull and and push the oil pretty much immediately.
Marty
 
I would also advise you to remove this "extension" from your OFH as the vibrations from our engines can and will shake and BREAK that off.
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A much better approach is to run a remote LINE (-4an) from your housing and mount your oil temp sensor to the end of it (for a pressure sensor) or in another place where oil is FLOWING not dead ending.
Just some tips from past failures. I run mine like this.....
My 90* fitting feeds the turbo and the straight fitting feeds my oil pressure sending unit.
We had a brass tee on a OFH at one time and the vibrations from the motor cracked and broke it off since it was hanging, with more leverage, off of the housing. Since that time, we started remote mounting sensors.
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Lastly, the port you have your fitting in is a Pre-filtered oil port. You should be using the bottom port, it is the Post-filter port hence the reason I am using the top port for a sensor, not a turbo feed, even though I run an inline turbo filter off the bottom feed.
 
Both the fittings have been addressed, and thanks for all the help. I threw it all back together and went ahead and back filled the cooler. Still no pressure was built by just spinning the motor over, so I threw plugs back in it and plugged up the injectors. As soon as the car fired, plenty of oil pressure was built. All the concern was actually just for no reason at all. Hopefully this might help someone going through the same thing one day.
 
I would also advise you to remove this "extension" from your OFH as the vibrations from our engines can and will shake and BREAK that off.
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A much better approach is to run a remote LINE (-4an) from your housing and mount your oil temp sensor to the end of it (for a pressure sensor) or in another place where oil is FLOWING not dead ending.
Just some tips from past failures. I run mine like this.....
My 90* fitting feeds the turbo and the straight fitting feeds my oil pressure sending unit.
We had a brass tee on a OFH at one time and the vibrations from the motor cracked and broke it off since it was hanging, with more leverage, off of the housing. Since that time, we started remote mounting sensors.
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I had no idea it was even possible, but I and 2 of my friends have cracked filter housings just from vibration.
 
I had no idea it was even possible, but I and 2 of my friends have cracked filter housings just from vibration.
It was on my sons DSM and he was 1 block away from Oriellys so he coasted in and got another tee to get home then we changed setups forever. :)
 
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