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ECMlink Wideband with DSMLink

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XyienceDSM

Probationary Member
22
1
May 21, 2020
Mansfield, Missouri
I combed about 15 pages of the ecmlink engine management threads and found what I thought were helpful hints for the dsmlink user. Most of these quotes are from the two users "BENSBABY" and "scareface". Just kidding. Probably half are from kjewer and the rest jery123, rhowell and others. Hopefully the information listed here is correct. These are all completely random tips. I hope you enjoy.

ECMLink Tips
  1. (SDAdjust Tool I believe)Another tip to get the tool to work better, start the log after the engine has warmed up, or clip the warmup section out of it before running the tool. I don't think it monitors ECT at all, so in the warm up area the tool will be trying to take out your warm up enrichment thinking it's an airflow calibration problem, when obviously it is not. That likely has to do with the number of samples/logs. As you keep running the tool it should dial it in better. I wouldn't expect the numbers from one log to show any real trends yet
  2. Once you have WOT and global working correctly, you can go back to idle/cruise VE and dead time
  3. Add some VE there until WB matches target. If it takes more than 100% VE to get there, then add a little global instead to keep VE from going over 100.
  4. If it's on E85, it won't knock a little. It's either happy, or broken.
  5. Cars with advanced base timing will often idle high getting into idle surge
  6. Very short exhaust is the most common reason I have for locking in open loop. Any atmo contamination at the sensor will make the engine run richer that it is showing
  7. since you are running regular fuel you should keep it richer 10.7 -10.6 afr
    • 11.0 afr is good for higher oct fuels ,for regular gas richer is better
  8. Timing should be at it lowest point when boost hits, hold steady until peak torque, then increased continually to your target peak number at rev limit.
  9. Don't even look at boost est with speed density. Pretend it never existed. Boost est is based on airflow and the assumption that VE is 100%. Airflow is based on VE and boost. So you're trying to use airflow to determine airflow. It doesn't work. Trying to line up boost est and boost, on a SD setup, will steer you wrong every single time.
  10. The ecu will pull 1* of timing when the coolant temp hits 206
  11. I would set your fpr, then do a pull, change your maf slider at 5500 to match boostest&map, do another pull, then change global by whatever wbfactor at 5500 reads, dial idle in with new global, one more pull to match the rest of afratioest up with WB.
  12. Have you done all the basics? BLT, check base timing, set biss, isc within range, tps at .63 and reading 0%-100% in stream, idle switch enabled and reading 1 at idle, and so on? Do all that, load evo fuel and timing maps, then idle it until you go into closed loop and adjust deadtime/mafcomp until combinedft is cycling around 0. Once your done with that you can start trying tweaks if it's still stalling
  13. The BISS can be tricky because I've seen it take almost a full day to see the results. Turn it all the way in and then back it out two full turns and that's usually a good start. Drive it for a while after its warmed up and see what the isc reads and adjust in 1/4 turn increments
  14. Warm the motor up first. Disconnect the battery for 10 seconds to reset the ISC. Key on to home the ISC. Start it up. Adjust BISS to target idle speed on the RPM tab with ISCposition around 30, before LearnedIdleAdj has time to move. This usually gets it 95% of the way there. Your ISC should read ~30 and Lrndidle Adj should be between 140-144
  15. For the first, a higher idle only when warm always makes me want to check the throttle cable adjustment. As it warms up, the jacket expands, and will pull the throttle open slightly if there isn't enough slack. If your TPS is set properly when cold, you'll see this as a 1-3% throttle when warm and off the gas.. Forget trying to adjust cable slack at idle like the factory manual suggests. To properly adjust the throttle cable, loosen the two adjusting bolts on the jacket/bracket, have someone floor the gas, pull the jacket back until the throttle body is hard against the WOT stop, and tighten the two bolts. This gives 100% throttle opening with no over travel, and all additional travel going into slack at idle. Rerun the TPS adjust wizard after this.
  16. What is a good idle target, that's harder to answer. In short, the lowest stable idle is usually best. Don't increase it arbitrarily just because you have cams. Go up 50 at a time as needed to get stable idle.
  17. On pump gas, you'll probably want to stay at or below around 10* timing (maybe even 5-6 degrees). On a high compression E85 setup perhaps as high as 14 or 15, and low compression race gas or E85 you can push as much as 17
  18. So far as the formula for calculating SD changes; it's easiest to just use the WBFactor. If that value shows 3% then add 3% to whatever cell is tracked in the datalog at that point. If it shows -4%, then take out 4% of whatever value is in the currently tracked cell. You may find small (.5% or 1%) variations pull to pull, but by and large that will get you where you need to be
  19. those that have a 5 bar map may have issues with their speed density table looking a bit, "rough". This is due to scaling. If you are daily driving the car, or dont plan on seeing more than 25 psi, stick to a GM 3bar, 3.3 or the 4 bars that are on the ecmlink website.
  20. Your resolution suffers when you go to the 5 bar map sensors and the throttle response as well as cruising may feel choppy. The lower pressure map sensors can scale things a bit more accurately since they are more along the "sweet spot" of things.
  21. Just a heads up to those in the market for map sensors. Dont just go out and buy a 5 bar or something that may give you more trouble than its worth.
  22. The ISC has a range of 0-120; 0 closed and 120 open. With the car fully warmed up and idling, having zero accessories on (headlights, radio, etc etc) you want it to be about 30.
  23. If the logged A/F ratio is different from what the DA table is asking for...your SD VE table is miscalibrated at that/those particular cells.
  24. Take 75 and subtract the base fuel pressure you are running...and that's the most boost you can run AS FAR AS THE FUEL PUMP is concerned.
  25. Deadtime is mainly used to dial in fuel trims at idle. Think of it as a fine adjustment to Global Fuel
  26. You'll set target AFR in the direct access tables (max octane open loop) to what you really want, then tune the SD (VE) table to achieve that target AFR in all conditions. 12.0 is leaner than I like to run on any fuel
  27. The airflowperrev is too high. It should be around .28-.30 on a 5spd 2.0 with cams at idle. I think your SD VE numbers are too high.
  28. Lower the VE numbers in and around the cells at idle, make sure to reset fuel trims while idling. you should see airflowperrev come down, but the AFR might change as well. change the deadtime on the injectors to fix the AFR. reset fuel trims again.
  29. One key point to remember is that idle surge is simply a high enough idle to hit idle/coasting fuel cut. Fuel cut isn't the cause, it's a symptom of the high idle
  30. If you need more fuel at idle to get STFT/LTFTlo in line...add deadtime until it hovers as close as possible to zero. If you end up with ridiculous DT numbers...it's possible that you need to do some adjusting in the VE table in the "idle cells" (if running SD) or to the 50Hz slider (if running a MAS or MAF). It's a good idea to find out what DT values are being used by others with the same injectors. Set DT to those values and if things are still off...get fuel trims as close as possible by adjusting the VE cells/MAF sliders in the idle area...then fine tune from there by adjusting DT in small increments
  31. To get the proper Apf bring the engine to operating temperature, start data logging, open SD table -track data log, you will see which cell-cells are in use & start lowering that cell-cells until you see proper Apr. That will force you to add global dead time so start adding global dead time until STFT hovers close to 0
  32. retarding timing will create boost but will make less torque in spool up region, advancing timing will create more torque but less boost in spool up region.
  33. If you want more psi earlier in the spool up region, retard timing and add fuel
  34. The deadtime adjustment setting affects mixture at idle more than it does at WOT. The global fuel setting affect things across the board, so if you find that WOT is rich, adjust the global fuel setting to get the WOT mixture correct and the deadtime adjustment setting get the idle mixture right
  35. STFT is only making adjustments after the LTFT. So to get LTFT closer to 0% lower your deadtime till the LTFT Low is within -+3% of 0%.
  36. The VE in that area was at 105, I bumped it to 120 and ill try it tomorrow. Are +100 numbers normal?
  37. No they are not, if everything is dialed in correctly, numbers greatly above 100% points towards fuel pressure problems or injectors physically cannot supply the fuel being requested
  38. @ 7.5k wb afr is 10.4 target is 10.8 cell value is 88 so 10.4/10.8=0.9629x 88 =(847)40 so the cell 88 has to be changed to 84.7 or better 85 or 84.5 since you can't enter 84.7 and you change the whole vertical row when on full boost .
  39. Bringing VE in the idle area up between 55-60 will get airflow/rev in range, then adjustments to dead time will be more meaningful. You really don't want to adjust global at idle, since it affects fueling everything else too
  40. Don't bother with WBfactor anywhere but open loop. For closed loop, use CombinedFT instead
  41. Unfortunately, the LTFT doesn't really indicate a global change at all, especially on SD
Hi i was wondering if you knew anything about DSMlink or ECMlink doesnt matter, wanting to know if they are Wideband or Narrow?
 
Hi i was wondering if you knew anything about DSMlink or ECMlink doesnt matter, wanting to know if they are Wideband or Narrow?
The tuning software itself isn't wide or narrowband. That describes the O2 sensor itself. That being said, ecmlink does have options to run wide band O2 sensors directly to the ecu and still allow the car to run closed loop just like factory. Take a look HERE.
 
That being said, ecmlink does have options to run wide band O2 sensors directly to the ecu and still allow the car to run closed loop just like factory. Take a look HERE.

Just to be clear, DSMLink doesn't support wideband O2 sensors directly connected to the ECU, there must be a wideband controller that feeds an analog voltage to one of the ECU's A2D inputs.
 
Just to be clear, DSMLink doesn't support wideband O2 sensors directly connected to the ECU, there must be a wideband controller that feeds an analog voltage to one of the ECU's A2D inputs.

Ah yes. You are correct. I had mispoken.
 
Just to be clear, DSMLink doesn't support wideband O2 sensors directly connected to the ECU, there must be a wideband controller that feeds an analog voltage to one of the ECU's A2D inputs.
Thank you, would u recommend a software to support wideband
 
Thank you, would u recommend a software to support wideband

It's not a software issue, it's a hardware issue.

There are some ECU's for other cars that have native wideband O2 Sensor support (Like some Audi and Honda's) but on a DSM using a factory ECU the Wideband sensor needs a hardware controller that outputs a 0-5 volt analog signal to the ECU that the ECU can then map to a AFR. DSMLink has the support to do the software side and you provide the hardware interface.
 
It's not a software issue, it's a hardware issue.

There are some ECU's for other cars that have native wideband O2 Sensor support (Like some Audi and Honda's) but on a DSM using a factory ECU the Wideband sensor needs a hardware controller that outputs a 0-5 volt analog signal to the ECU that the ECU can then map to a AFR. DSMLink has the support to do the software side and you provide the hardware interface.
SWEEET i appreciate the help man!

It's not a software issue, it's a hardware issue.

There are some ECU's for other cars that have native wideband O2 Sensor support (Like some Audi and Honda's) but on a DSM using a factory ECU the Wideband sensor needs a hardware controller that outputs a 0-5 volt analog signal to the ECU that the ECU can then map to a AFR. DSMLink has the support to do the software side and you provide the hardware interface.
Just curious, does ECMlink or DSMlink have automatic transmission controls for tuning? like torque converter lock up, shift points, shift firmness or stuff like that.
 
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Just curious, does ECMlink or DSMlink have automatic transmission controls for tuning? like torque converter lock up, shift points, shift firmness or stuff like that.
You would want a shiftbox to get most of those features. @1990TSIAWDTALON might be able help enlighten you to them, but iirc they're discontinued now.
 
You would want a shiftbox to get most of those features. @1990TSIAWDTALON might be able help enlighten you to them, but iirc they're discontinued now.
So what your saying is for an automatic it doesnt exist? or that Link just doesnt have it

Just curious not sure if this is off topic but does anyone know what the Cold / Warm IDLE RPM needs to be at for a 99 eclipse GST? mine was at 1500-2000 now its at 900-1000
 
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http://forcedfour.com/smart100_1.htm

I see he includes "BASE MAPS" now. That was something I had to figure out on my own. Just drove my car with this in it last night, love that little box. :thumb:
 
Its the standalone TCU for your automatic transmission for controlling your line pressures, shift firmness, shift points etc. It is like Link for the transmission.
 
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