The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

Advice on twin disc that won’t damage input shaft

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ceedawg

Supporting Member
1,528
215
Nov 9, 2002
laurelton, New_York
Any advice on which Twin disc to get? I’m not a 1/4 mile drag racer but would like to run the car in 1/2 mile events. So basically NO LAUNCHING. Some street driving and roll racing.

Whcih is the best twin disc to get that will not damage the input shaft or transmission period In the above driving scenarios?
 
Last edited:
Anything but a PTT...we had nothing but trouble with one of those and never did get it right before switching to an 8-leg Quarter Master. Someone once told us the PTT was never intended to be a drag clutch and was designed more for road racing or rally but with all the issues we had I'd still recommend trying anything else first. The clutch action was poor- there was no "slip" factor whatsoever, engagement was like a light switch even with a +/- 700hp car. If you allowed the clutch pedal to have full travel the fork would hit the pressure plate, so you either had to fabricate some sort of pedal stop or try some hokey combination of master cylinders and slave cylinders to shorten the movement of the slave and consequently the fork. After swapping to the QM with new OEM hydraulic components, all of those problems disappeared.
 
I can't speak for how it does with the eclipse as I'm still using an oem but I do have a OS Geiken twin disk in my skyline and I absolutely love it. It sucks in stop and go but launching and on a long cruise or roll racing it's amazing. I personally haven't done much research on them for our platform yet.
 
Anything but a PTT...we had nothing but trouble with one of those and never did get it right before switching to an 8-leg Quarter Master. Someone once told us the PTT was never intended to be a drag clutch and was designed more for road racing or rally but with all the issues we had I'd still recommend trying anything else first. The clutch action was poor- there was no "slip" factor whatsoever, engagement was like a light switch even with a +/- 700hp car. If you allowed the clutch pedal to have full travel the fork would hit the pressure plate, so you either had to fabricate some sort of pedal stop or try some hokey combination of master cylinders and slave cylinders to shorten the movement of the slave and consequently the fork. After swapping to the QM with new OEM hydraulic components, all of those problems disappeared.
yes I saw where it said to get an Isuzu clutch master cylinder and I said forget that! Now isnt that 8 leg quratermaster like 1800.00,I was looking at the 6 leg but other than the price and the number of legs I am very curious about the difference.
 
I’m done with this Soutbend cutch. Bought it from TMZ it’s slipping on the dyno. Tried to do several adjustments on the clutch it is just not holding 5 k miles. I have no time to waste.

I am told to go twin disc. I see some say stay single disc However I am told the twin disc can damage the transmission.

Any advice on which Twin disc to get? I’m not a 1/4 mile drag racer but would like to run the car in 1/2 mile events. So basically NO LAUNCHING. Some street driving and roll racing.

Whcih is the best twin disc to get that will not damage the input shaft or transmission period In the above driving scenarios?


You definitely can't beat a twin disc for holding power!! Just curious, which southbend did you have and how much power are you making?
 
Anything but a PTT...we had nothing but trouble with one of those and never did get it right before switching to an 8-leg Quarter Master. Someone once told us the PTT was never intended to be a drag clutch and was designed more for road racing or rally but with all the issues we had I'd still recommend trying anything else first. The clutch action was poor- there was no "slip" factor whatsoever, engagement was like a light switch even with a +/- 700hp car. If you allowed the clutch pedal to have full travel the fork would hit the pressure plate, so you either had to fabricate some sort of pedal stop or try some hokey combination of master cylinders and slave cylinders to shorten the movement of the slave and consequently the fork. After swapping to the QM with new OEM hydraulic components, all of those problems disappeared.

I've experienced the same. Previous build had a PTT and it was a nightmare. Impossible to street drive smoothly, just an on/off switch. We even tried a 2g accumulator to dampen it, which barely made a difference. Current race car has a QM with the gear drive discs and it is night and day better. It's as easy to modulate as a stock clutch, and no weird vibrations/harmonics through the car.
 
I've experienced the same. Previous build had a PTT and it was a nightmare. Impossible to street drive smoothly, just an on/off switch. We even tried a 2g accumulator to dampen it, which barely made a difference. Current race car has a QM with the gear drive discs and it is night and day better. It's as easy to modulate as a stock clutch, and no weird vibrations/harmonics through the car.
LOL I have the TMZ clutch and Yes I experience this with the full ceramic disk but I have gotten used to it. The clutch sure as hell does not ever slip on the dyno anymore. but yes acts like a light switch.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top