Just want your guys opinion on this nitrous system if/when I decide to pull the trigger. I recently upgraded my setup from an Evo3 intake/kelford 264 cam/#8 PI converter to a Magnus V4/Kelford 280/#7 PI converter so I am feeling as though I will need a nitrous kit to get up on the converter.

Will mostly be using it to stall up but also may spray out the hole in the future if I am feeling spunky! Do you guys that run nitrous also run a purge kit or is that just for the looks?

Here is the kit I am looking at, I like the simplicity of the push button activation rather than the WOT activation:

https://www.nitrousexpress.com/mainline-efi-single-nozzle-system-with-10lb-bottle-ml2000.asp

Let me know what you think or any recommendations!

I purge before the I get to the line to make sure the nitrous is there whenever needed. If not you may have a little delay. That kit that you are looking at is similar to the one I have. So far I haven't had any problems with mine I just use it to spool up and I am running an IPT torque converter.

Bo0sTeD 4G63 said:

I purge before the I get to the line to make sure the nitrous is there whenever needed. If not you may have a little delay. That kit that you are looking at is similar to the one I have. So far I haven't had any problems with mine I just use it to spool up and I am running an IPT torque converter.

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Thanks for the info! What shot are you using?

The purge is definitely good to have. What size turbo and turbine housing?
I assume the motors a 2 ltr?

Boomdeeze said:

Thanks for the info! What shot are you using?

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I am using a 50 shot.

A purge kit is very useful if you have but it is not exactly necessary for running. You can activate it once before running to fill the line. And after running, close the bottle and activate it to purge all that remain in the line.
IMO, a bottle heater would be more beneficial than a purge kit. Of course it's better to have both, if the budget would allow you.
As for the push button switch, I recommend to combine it with another switch to avoid to accidentally activate.

DSMPT said:

A purge kit is very useful if you have but it is not exactly necessary for running. You can activate it once before running to fill the line. And after running, close the bottle and activate it to purge all that remain in the line.
IMO, a bottle heater would be more beneficial than a purge kit. Of course it's better to have both, if the budget would allow you.
As for the push button switch, I recommend to combine it with another switch to avoid to accidentally activate.

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Does you have to flip the activation switch in order for the push button to work? So you have to have the toggle switch activated to allow the push button to release the nitrous, that's how I understood it.

So the bottle heater is a need?

Tom N said:

The purge is definitely good to have. What size turbo and turbine housing?
I assume the motors a 2 ltr?

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The turbo is the DSM82 so 3582 in the FP35 housing (~.68ar). Yes the car is a 2.0l and didn't have a problem getting on the converter before but that was with smaller cams and IM along with the loose converter (PI #8). Wanted to tighten up the converter to pick up some mph and open up the intake to unleash the beast!

A 50 shot should be all thats needed

Boomdeeze said:

Does you have to flip the activation switch in order for the push button to work? So you have to have the toggle switch activated to allow the push button to release the nitrous, that's how I understood it.

So the bottle heater is a need?

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Sorry I am not so sure what you mean by flip the switch, but it's not complicated. It would depend how you control the nitrous, if control it via ECU or have a standalone N2O system. Anyways the push button switch would be just a trigger. Could be a power supply or to ground to activate a relay. Or if you have a standalone ECU that allows you to have a nitrous control activation input, just connect a momentary push button switch to the specific input. And select an input type 12v-on, ground-on or whatever by following the ECU's guide.

As for the bottle heater, if you spray only for the converter, the story would be a bit different from spraying it always while you are running. Sure you can run without it, but yes if you want the N2O pressure always steady, the bottle heater is a need.

DSMPT said:

Sorry I am not so sure what you mean by flip the switch, but it's not complicated. It would depend how you control the nitrous, if control it via ECU or have a standalone N2O system. Anyways the push button switch would be just a trigger. Could be a power supply or to ground to activate a relay. Or if you have a standalone ECU that allows you to have a nitrous control activation input, just connect a momentary push button switch to the specific input. And select an input type 12v-on, ground-on or whatever by following the ECU's guide.

As for the bottle heater, if you spray only for the converter, the story would be a bit different from spraying it always while you are running. Sure you can run without it, but yes if you want the N2O pressure always steady, the bottle heater is a need.

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Ok I will likely put it in a momentary switch to activate the nitrous when needed. If I were to have the tank heater in my pit to warm the bottle but unplug it as I am getting in line, would it still work rather than buying the tank heater that gets installed in the car?

Boomdeeze said:

Ok I will likely put it in a momentary switch to activate the nitrous when needed.

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Yeah if you want to spray manually, just hook up the push button switch instead of the WOT switch in the diagram below. Connect the one side of push button switch to a 12V arming switch and the other side to the relay's #86 terminal. That's the simplest way and you would be able to spray only while you are pressing the push button by yourself.

Boomdeeze said:

f I were to have the tank heater in my pit to warm the bottle but unplug it as I am getting in line, would it still work rather than buying the tank heater that gets installed in the car?

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If you only spray for the converter at the line, I think it would work. But if you would keep spraying while you are running, probably it would get cold and the pressure would be lower, it depends on the ambient temp and the jet number though. Should install a pressure gauge then monitor it, and add it later if you think it's necessary.

Boomdeeze said:

The turbo is the DSM82 so 3582 in the FP35 housing (~.68ar). Yes the car is a 2.0l and didn't have a problem getting on the converter before but that was with smaller cams and IM along with the loose converter (PI #8). Wanted to tighten up the converter to pick up some mph and open up the intake to unleash the beast!

Click to expand...

Hi, just very curious about the Evo 3 intake vs the Magnus v4. Did you have a dyno graph comparing only intakes? Reason I ask is that I have seen people using the stock Evo 3 unported manifold running 700-800 whp (bigger TB though)... I am thinking of switching back to my Evo 3 intake from the nice Driven Innovation intake... Thanks

Ben-Stian said:

Hi, just very curious about the Evo 3 intake vs the Magnus v4. Did you have a dyno graph comparing only intakes? Reason I ask is that I have seen people using the stock Evo 3 unported manifold running 700-800 whp (bigger TB though)... I am thinking of switching back to my Evo 3 intake from the nice Driven Innovation intake... Thanks

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I don't have a back to back comparison. I swapped in larger cams as well so the dyno wont be able to tell a lot regarding the intake manifold swaps.

Do you have a link to cars running the evo 3 at 800 whp? I know fast times have been put down using the evo 3 IM but haven't seen those type of numbers yet. I am just curious as I have read and talked to people that switched from the evo 3 to the V4 and saw a big jump in HP.

Boomdeeze said:

Ok I will likely put it in a momentary switch to activate the nitrous when needed. If I were to have the tank heater in my pit to warm the bottle but unplug it as I am getting in line, would it still work rather than buying the tank heater that gets installed in the car?

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a plug in bottle heater should be fine. its not going to drop much pressure once its warm to have one that stays in the car. i dont even have a heater. ive used the sun and a blanket to get it to pressure

Boomdeeze said:

I don't have a back to back comparison. I swapped in larger cams as well so the dyno wont be able to tell a lot regarding the intake manifold swaps.

Do you have a link to cars running the evo 3 at 800 whp? I know fast times have been put down using the evo 3 IM but haven't seen those type of numbers yet. I am just curious as I have read and talked to people that switched from the evo 3 to the V4 and saw a big jump in HP.

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Ok thanks. Matthias Boldt in Germany is one I remember the name of that have ran big hp with the E3 manifold...

I firmly believe in using dry nitrous for converter stall and spray down the track. You do have to run a larger than normal shot as the dry nitrous is not as aggressive. Leave the fueling of the engine to the injectors and have fun not melting pistons. In my opinion.

We ran a Borg Warner S483 on our talon with a 1.25a/r T4. Depending on the Converter, which we finally figured out, we would have to run anywhere from a 225hp shot to a 300hp shot. We purged with no heater. We just kept a full bottle at all times in the car. We controlled the nitrous through a relay via Dsmlink.

Before I took over he was melting pistons frequently. Moved to a dry shot and the only problems we had were killing trannies. They didn’t seem to like making 800hp sitting still and 1000-1100hp before the end of first gear.

biglady112 said:

I firmly believe in using dry nitrous for converter stall and spray down the track. You do have to run a larger than normal shot as the dry nitrous is not as aggressive. Leave the fueling of the engine to the injectors and have fun not melting pistons. In my opinion.

We ran a Borg Warner S483 on our talon with a 1.25a/r T4. Depending on the Converter, which we finally figured out, we would have to run anywhere from a 225hp shot to a 300hp shot. We purged with no heater. We just kept a full bottle at all times in the car. We controlled the nitrous through a relay via Dsmlink.

Before I took over he was melting pistons frequently. Moved to a dry shot and the only problems we had were killing trannies. They didn’t seem to like making 800hp sitting still and 1000-1100hp before the end of first gear.

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Were you spraying down the track without adding more fuel through the injectors?

The car was set to spray the entire track. Mechanical fuel pump and 8 fuel injector setup.

We ran right near 60psi with the nitrous on top of it all the way down the track.

biglady112 said:

The car was set to spray the entire track. Mechanical fuel pump and 8 fuel injector setup.

We ran right near 60psi with the nitrous on top of it all the way down the track.

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Ok so you had it set to spray at a certain time so the nitrous was worked in to the tune. I can’t run the dry and I need fuel added with the nitrous so I can have the momentary button for when I need nitrous.

I don’t see why not. Is your fuel system lacking? Unless you are running a large shot, your fuel system I would assume would be more than enough to handle it through the tune

biglady112 said:

I don’t see why not. Is your fuel system lacking? Unless you are running a large shot, your fuel system I would assume would be more than enough to handle it through the tune

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I just want the momentary switch to use it when stalling up. I’m out of inputs so I can’t wire it in to the ECU to control the nitrous which is why a wet shot is helpful!