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2G Power to (somewhat) new fuel pump but pump does not turn on

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madellous

Probationary Member
5
1
Oct 22, 2018
Croydon, Pennsylvania
Hello everyone. I first want to thank everyone for the extensive amount of information available on this site and through the community. I am a GM guy but recently took on a 96 GSX as a project to help a friend get it running again. Through the info on this site I was able to rebuild the entire top end of the engine. Here is my issue with a little background:

The vehicle is a 96 GSX with a 6 bolt swap. Car sat for several years after it turned off randomly one day. Turns out it skipped timing and trashed all the valves. I replaced the head and got it running again a few weeks ago. However, it had only been started a couple times since it had an oil leak I had yet to chase down. It would start with no problem.

Now, the fuel pump (being told it may be Walbro 450, definitely an aftermarket pump) does not turn on (no audible sound or pressure at the fuel pressure gauge). I tried the check connector in the engine bay as well as activating it in DSMLink, neither turned the pump on. I have power at the connector in both situations across both grounds, so I assume the circuit is good. I quickly tried to hook the pump up to power directly and it did not turn on, but it was late so I wasn't sure if I didn't have the leads all the way connected or if I was on the correct pins. The pump was replaced about a year ago but has less than an hour of use on it. It worked just fine a few weeks ago when the car was starting. The only thing I did differently was I pushed the car out of my garage since it won't go into reverse. Ever since then, the pump has not worked.

The only other thing of note is that the fuel tank has fuel in it but it was low. Is it possible that the low fuel caused a relatively new pump to run hot enough to burn out? At no point was the fuel low enough to not start the car. Is there anything on the pump assembly that I could look at/repair?

Any help/insight is appreciated. My next step is to remove the pump and try to test it on the bench. What pins need to be jumped to turn the pump on?
 
Minor update: PO's old mechanic just got back to him and said its either an AEM LP340 or an Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump, not a Walbro 450. Not sure if it makes a difference here. I'll know for sure when I pull the pump this weekend.
 
I hear you Vegas..............@madellous, I installed 2 Aeromotive 340 pumps from Amazon and neither pump worked. I ended up returning BOTH and had to put my Walbro 255 back in and the car fired right up. I am NOT a fan of Aeromotive 340 pumps even though my red Talon has one that DOES work in it. I don't trust them anymore. Maybe if you got one from a vendor on here it would be different, but I am not going through the trouble with a 340 ever again. Grab up a Hellcat 525 and be done.
 
I hear you Vegas..............@madellous, I installed 2 Aeromotive 340 pumps from Amazon and neither pump worked. I ended up returning BOTH and had to put my Walbro 255 back in and the car fired right up. I am NOT a fan of Aeromotive 340 pumps even though my red Talon has one that DOES work in it. I don't trust them anymore. Maybe if you got one from a vendor on here it would be different, but I am not going through the trouble with a 340 ever again. Grab up a Hellcat 525 and be done.

Thanks for the advice. The PO bought the pump from a local speed shop. My plan was to throw a Walbro 255 in to get the car back on the road but I'll take a look at the Hellcat 525. I was just hoping I wouldn't have to dig back into this car again, but I'm noticing a trend with these DSMs ROFL
 
Oh I'm sure!!!! I need to read the instructions............:p
 
Just so you (Madellous) know during your debug, the 1g's and 2g turbo (but not 2g NT due to a Chrysler design) activate the fuel pump only while the engine is rotating (actually due to receiving CAS pulses). This is for safety in a crash. So don't be alarmed when the key is in ON position and the engine is stopped, that the FP is not working (unless you forced it on by jumper or DSMLink).
 
I hear you Vegas..............@madellous, I installed 2 Aeromotive 340 pumps from Amazon and neither pump worked. I ended up returning BOTH and had to put my Walbro 255 back in and the car fired right up. I am NOT a fan of Aeromotive 340 pumps even though my red Talon has one that DOES work in it. I don't trust them anymore. Maybe if you got one from a vendor on here it would be different, but I am not going through the trouble with a 340 ever again. Grab up a Hellcat 525 and be done.
Pump ended up being a DW 300. Hooked up power to it and no dice, not that I was expecting much. Maybe I should go old school and hit it with a hammer ROFL Time to get the hellcat and carry on.

Just so you (Madellous) know during your debug, the 1g's and 2g turbo (but not 2g NT due to a Chrysler design) activate the fuel pump only while the engine is rotating (actually due to receiving CAS pulses). This is for safety in a crash. So don't be alarmed when the key is in ON position and the engine is stopped, that the FP is not working (unless you forced it on by jumper or DSMLink).
Thanks, I tried both the test wire in the engine bay and DSMLink, both provide power to the fuel pump connector as expected but the fuel pump seems to have taken a dump.
 
For the record, my pumps made noise and sounded like they WOULD work but after install, they would hum but not a drop of fuel. I even did a bench test to make sure they came on for just a second. By the time I was taking out the 2nd one and scratching my bald head, I was mad as a hornet and digging around for the pump that came out of the car.....which worked fine (it was a W255).
 
Just buy the F90000295 instead of the F90000285, the flow is insane! The 295 does not have a check valve but if you have V3 a check valve is pointless with the prime function! Check these graphs out and tell me that 295 doesn't make you hot and heavy:
 

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For the record, my pumps made noise and sounded like they WOULD work but after install, they would hum but not a drop of fuel. I even did a bench test to make sure they came on for just a second. By the time I was taking out the 2nd one and scratching my bald head, I was mad as a hornet and digging around for the pump that came out of the car.....which worked fine (it was a W255).
I think I have a W255 laying around that I’m going to throw in just to get the car running again so I can chase down an oil leak. Since I’m fixing this car for a friend, I’ll let him throw a bigger pump in if he wants. Thanks for the advice.
 
I run the 285 Hellcat 525 pump and I love the fact that I can go out 2 days later and still have fuel pressure, so I run the pump WITH the check valve in it. Not one single complaint. Fires right up every time. Love that pump! Depending on your needs, you can make a choice when you upgrade. :thumb:
 
I run the 285 Hellcat 525 pump and I love the fact that I can go out 2 days later and still have fuel pressure, so I run the pump WITH the check valve in it. Not one single complaint. Fires right up every time. Love that pump! Depending on your needs, you can make a choice when you upgrade. :thumb:

But link V3 has a fuel pump primer now so the pump turns on to prime the lines before you turn the key to engage the starter.. So why get the inferior pump for an unneeded check valve?!?! ;)
 
I guess I like pressurized lines for FIRE....ROFL.
Hell IDK, its just my norm since that option wasn't always on there.
But, the 285 isn't what anyone should call "inferior", it is a great pump!
Either one of those is one and done I would like to think, be it a 285 or a 295. :)
(Watch a 305 show up......) OMG
 
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