2G HeadGasket problem?

Dzducky · May 5, 2020

Sorry for the long read.
But this is the issue I’m currently having for my car, or what I’m noticing about it.
During wide open throttle or doing a pull on the car, the knock sensor will ping and cause the cel to go on, and the car is restricted to go any faster. Boost is also decreased by 3-4psi when that happens. During regular driving the knock sensor will go off randomly not making a difference on drivability of the car.
When idling it will ping after a while of sitting until I start driving.
What I just started to notice is that when it’s idling after driving, and the ping appears, I would put the heat on max and after a while it would disappear, but would appear again after I turn off the heat etc.
Hoping that it is the head gasket going out, or maybe I have to retorque the head studs again.
I have a idling video of the cel going on and off, and a video of the coolant reservoir.
I don’t know how to post videos, so you can pm me if you want to see! Thanks for the help in advance

AWD-Tony · May 5, 2020

Check compression and do a leak down test if you think the hg is leaking. Post a log if you have link.

Dzducky · May 5, 2020

driving around
datalog 1: heat on
datalog 2: heat off

pauleyman · May 5, 2020

How about a profile post. CEL won't popup for no reason. Check the code. If you have some sort of tuning solution, dsmlink etc. that flags a cel then you need to find out what it is or tell us how you have it set.

AWD-Tony · May 6, 2020

It's pretty hot just idling, north of 230 and you're in Minnesota so that needs attention. Like Pauley said, fill out your profile page with all mods so we don't have to ask a million questions.
Are your fans turning on when the car is idling?
Under Misc tab, you can activate the fans. Check that and see if the temp goes down. Should be just under 200 when fans are on.

Side note:
It needs an idle tune.
Your target is 1,000 but it's almost at 1,200rpm.
ISC is way off. With car fully warmed up and ALL accessories off, it should sit around 30
Adjust tps to .63
Under ALS/Knock tab, set your knock sensor rpm to 4000 and 50% throttle. No need to see knock under that range.

AWD-Tony · May 6, 2020

You have a wideband? Wire the output to the ecu and log it along with wbfactor

Dzducky · May 6, 2020

pauleyman said:
How about a profile post. CEL won't popup for no reason. Check the code. If you have some sort of tuning solution, dsmlink etc. that flags a cel then you need to find out what it is or tell us how you have it set.

When the cel turned on, I tried to use dtc on dsmlinkv3 but nothing appeared. Did you want to see fueling tables etc too?

Dzducky · May 6, 2020

TK's9d2TSi said:
It's pretty hot just idling, north of 230 and you're in Minnesota so that needs attention. Like Pauley said, fill out your profile page with all mods so we don't have to ask a million questions.
Are your fans turning on when the car is idling?
Under Misc tab, you can activate the fans. Check that and see if the temp goes down. Should be just under 200 when fans are on.

Side note:
It needs an idle tune.
Your target is 1,000 but it's almost at 1,200rpm.
ISC is way off. With car fully warmed up and ALL accessories off, it should sit around 30
Adjust tps to .63
Under ALS/Knock tab, set your knock sensor rpm to 4000 and 50% throttle. No need to see knock under that range.

I just made a profile page for the car, but I put the main mods on the list. The fans are turned on by a switch and it works consistently. I always leave the fans on. The idle is a little higher, it used to be 850. But under heavy load or reving the car, it immediately tries to catch itself then dies but it doesn’t do that anymore because I sit the idle a higher. GReddy rz bov.
I’ll check what I can do with the ALS/Knock tab.

AWD-Tony · May 6, 2020

So it’s always at 230 with the fans on? Stock fans?

AWD-Tony · May 6, 2020

Jarfromobile, on YouTube, has a couple of great videos to help you tune the idle. Search jafromobile tuning 101. There are many helpful thread here as well.

Dzducky · May 6, 2020

TK's9d2TSi said:
So it’s always at 230 with the fans on? Stock fans?

I always leave the fan on.. On highway so far I seen 203-220 but it stays low while driving on the highway, I assume driving in the city and stopping for a long time will make the coolant temp higher possibly 219-236 I’ve seen so far. I’ll search the guy up and see where to go from there. The fans are not stock. 2 slim fans and that’s about it.

Mello · May 6, 2020

You're running hot. Rule out the simple stuff before doing the harder things. Have you checked to make sure this is not a coolant problem? A hot motor will ping easier than normal operating temperature motor. Are you loosing any coolant, any leaks? Why did you make a video of your overflow bottle? How old is your radiator cap or thermostat? Are both in good shape? I only use OEM Mitsubishi radiator cap FWIW.

Dzducky · May 6, 2020

Dzducky said:
I always leave the fan on.. On highway so far I seen 203-220 but it stays low while driving on the highway, I assume driving in the city and stopping for a long time will make the coolant temp higher possibly 219-236 I’ve seen so far. I’ll search the guy up and see where to go from there.

Mello said:
You're running hot. Rule out the simple stuff before doing the harder things. Have you checked to make sure this is not a coolant problem? A hot motor will ping easier than normal operating temperature motor. Are you loosing any coolant, any leaks? Why did you make a video of your overflow bottle? How old is your radiator cap or thermostat? Are both in good shape? I only use OEM Mitsubishi radiator cap FWIW.

not losing any coolant, but it did bubble pretty hard sometimes, pushing coolant out of the reservoir. I guess I can try replacing the thermostat housing and water pump, before ensuring a HeadGasket replacement. I just changed the cap about 2 days ago. I do not know how old the thermostat is itself.

jed344 · May 6, 2020

You need some tuning. 1 I doubt you are knocking that hard at such low timing and lb/min. second I have no idea what AF you are at I don't see a logged wideband. You are out of injector I saw 100%+ duty cycle in the log. Have you checked your knock sensor to be sure it is good?

Dzducky · May 7, 2020

jed344 said:
You need some tuning. 1 I doubt you are knocking that hard at such low timing and lb/min. second I have no idea what AF you are at I don't see a logged wideband. You are out of injector I saw 100%+ duty cycle in the log. Have you checked your knock sensor to be sure it is good?

I just recently had the knock sensor replaced, and it pings way less, but still does. One of my buddies did say that the tune I was on is richer than usual. I believe my tuner tried to connect the wideband with dsmlink but had a difficult time doing it. I’m highly thinking about getting a new thermostat/housing and a water pump too. The injectors are stock but I do have 1200cc injectors, but I will handle that when my tuner tunes the car.

beansblacktsi · May 7, 2020

The two slim fans are your issue with it getting hot if they don't have a shroud and if they aren't quality slim fans.

AWD-Tony · May 7, 2020

Yup I had two mishimoto slim fans and it was about the same temps at idle. Change the p/s fan back to stock and that should bring the temps down. One of the first things I do when ever I buy a used car is change the thermostat and flush flush flush the coolant out of the block and heater core unless the coolant looks clean.

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