If you're skilled at PCB repair, then clean it up and replace the caps. Otherwise, send it to the ECM Link guys and have them clean/fix/replace what needs to be done.

How would one "clean it up"? I have done some circuit board soldering, etc before but not sure how you would "clean" this??

Rubbing alcohol. Many Q-tips.

Thanks!

Can anyone tell me what kind of socket I would need for the eprom chip while I'm soldering on the board?

I use the same sockets that Moates.net stocks. Here's a link:D2 28-pin DIP Socket

Also, here's a link that may be of some help for doing the socket work: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/266472-socketing-eprom-ecu.html

Here's a link for capacitors I found

1g DSM ECU capacitor rebuild kit, Mad Fab Lab

matt1g said:

Here's a link for capacitors I found

1g DSM ECU capacitor rebuild kit, Mad Fab Lab

Click to expand...

Those were the ones I was planning on ordering unless anyone had a better suggestion...I was also going to get the standard socket from them for $1.00 more unless they are crappy sockets? I have heard bad things about zif sockets so I was just going to get the standard one? Any pointers there?

Thanks for the links rts91tsi

You probably wouldn't need to Order as many as I do at a time so it may not work as well... But I would go threw DigiKey Corporation - Electronic Components Distributor for About anything if doing ECU work... or Moates.net as said.

As well keep in mind that rubbing alcohol is not 100% alcohol in a lot of cases an part water. you can pick up Electronics cleaner rather then use that if you would like at a local electronics store or Radio Shark to clean the conformal coating of and take care of the Corrosion to the board... Though most of this if your asking you probably should just send it off to someone who does it.

As far as the How to for socketing above, keep in mind what Steve says in Post 2 in that.

rowingfish87 said:

Those were the ones I was planning on ordering unless anyone had a better suggestion...I was also going to get the standard socket from them for $1.00 more unless they are crappy sockets? I have heard bad things about zif sockets so I was just going to get the standard one? Any pointers there?

Thanks for the links rts91tsi

Click to expand...

You're welcome.

I would ask them if their standard socket is the same one offered with the Honda chipping kit. If so I would pass since the socket pictured in that kit is not a high-quality machine-tooled collet-pin socket like the ones that Moates sells, or similar from Digi-Key as suggested. Here is a link from ECMTuning that gives an applicable part number from Digi-Key for the recommended socket, as well as some info regarding the socket pictured from the Honda chipping kit(which is not recommended), and also some ZIF info.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/socketpartnumber?s=sockets

I'll pass along some knowledge I got from Steve the wiseman. It's from a message regarding sockets/ZIFs that I had when I first got into stock ECU tuning.

From Steve: I only use machine pin sockets and when requested the Aries S4 ZIF socket. Early on I used to solder the S4 directly to the boards but stopped doing that since it doesn't work well with the old DSMLink. This is no longer an issue with V3 but you couldn't close the S4 with the V2 board so you had to put another socket into the ZIF and then install DSMLink.

I really question how often people are going to swap chips and if you have an Ostrich 99% of the time your going to use it and not be swapping chips around which make any advantage of having a ZIF socket questionable.

You just have to be careful installing and removing chips from a machine pin socket so you don't damage the pins. I prefer to know that there is never going to be an issue with the chip (or Ostrich cable) coming loose over any difficulty installing/removing them.

Ok, so I replaced all three capacitors and cleaned all the corrosion off the board I could find as well as got rid of the dust bunnies under the board...car is still only running on cyl # 1 & 2...

What do I check/replace now?!?

I've had wet CAS's cause problems like this. Also don't rule out bad coils/transistor. Even though the bad cylinders are not on a shared coil it could just mean each coil is only giving hot spark to the 1 cylinder. I'm kind of dealing with this same issue on my talon right now but I know it has a questionable coil pack/transistor already.

my galant was showing wierd spark symptoms like randomly running on 2 cylinders, but when i restarted it, it would go back to normal. until it died on my way home christmas night. turns out it was the CAS. swapped it and it fired right back up.
when it wouldn't start it threw a CEL 22, which is the CAS CEL.
easy fix for my car. hope this helps.

DSMopar said:

I've had wet CAS's cause problems like this. Also don't rule out bad coils/transistor. Even though the bad cylinders are not on a shared coil it could just mean each coil is only giving hot spark to the 1 cylinder. I'm kind of dealing with this same issue on my talon right now but I know it has a questionable coil pack/transistor already.

Click to expand...

Thats what I was starting to think. I swapped the plugs around today with no change. I have a FSM so I will test the coil, power transistor and CAS...unfortunately I'm going out of town today and wont be back for another week.

EGLTAWLN:

I wish I was getting a CEL to help me narrow this down some.

Today I tested the coils which the FSM says the primary should be between 0.77-0.95 ohms;. The primary coil for #1-4 was 1.0 ohms; and the coil for 2-3 was 1.2 ohms;. The secondary (high voltage) coils were both right in spec at ~11.8 kohms; (FSM spec: 10.3-13.9 kohms.

Also, I checked the voltage at the CAS, with the ign switched on the CAS reads 5v but when the car is running it reads btwn 1.1-2.3v...is this normal?

The CEL is not illuminated while the car is running, just when the key is first switched on until you crank the car...

Should I try a new CAS? Replace the coil? Try another ecu? What else can I test before I just start throwing parts at it?

Is there anyway that pulling the valve cover off to paint it could have caused this problem?? That is the only thing I did while I had the car in my shop before this problem started.

rowingfish87 said:

Bueller...Bueller...Bueller

Click to expand...

i have same problem did you fix it if you did it how to fix that?

sakroda said:

i have same problem did you fix it if you did it how to fix that?

Click to expand...

Open ecu to see if you have a leaky capacitor. These things are old and can very easily be your issue.

If so you de-solder capacitor, pull it and clean all the goo with alcohol and qtips then replace capacitor.

If you dont know how to do this and need to pay someone a computer repair shop can do it if you cant get it to ecmlink

enriquez2000 said:

Open ecu to see if you have a leaky capacitor. These things are old and can very easily be your issue.

If so you de-solder capacitor, pull it and clean all the goo with alcohol and qtips then replace capacitor.

If you dont know how to do this and need to pay someone a computer repair shop can do it if you cant get it to ecmlink

Click to expand...

I have tested with 3 ecus and its the same

I read your other post. You only have a few things to check if you have cylinders not firing

Plugs
Wires
Transistor
Coil pack
ECU
Wiring

If its fuel and not spark you can also check

Injectors
Injector wiring
resistor pack