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1G I unthreaded my master cylinder rod.

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TK9er

Proven Member
168
16
Jun 1, 2014
lincoln, Nebraska
Hey, I hate to be this guy, but this 1g clutch has me screaming. The transmission is newly rebuilt from jacks. New clutch. I replaced the slave and the master with new oem, and put a speed bleeder in. I had someone come over and help me adjust it. I was able to drive it around, but it only shifted nice when the car was cold. To the point it would lock me out of first gear. I tried adjusting it more and managed to unthread the rod entirely. I am going to take the pedal assembly out and inspect it again. I have already gotten it welded in the past. So, my question is do I just thread the master rod back into the clevis? I am so confused how this stuff works, and I am tired if watching jacks video and reading about it . Also, if anyone is in the Lincoln Nebraska area and wants to help! Come on over!!
 
Just thread it back in and re-do the proper clutch adjustment procedure for a 1G.

The rod is essentially threaded on one end (towards the pedal), and has a half-spherical shape on the other end. That end simply sits against the master cylinder piston. Sort of like a mortar and pestle, if that makes sense? You haven't broken anything, don't worry.
 
Good deal! thanks for the reply. I guess i'm just confused about how to adjust the clutch. I don't want to start another huge clutch adjustment procedure, but I guess I don't understand how turning the rod effects the master in any way. I seems like all it is doing is changing the pedal height. Am I turning the wrong thing?
 
I feel your pain. Laying on your back, getting your hands up under the dash, bending them around the pedals and twisting your fingers to try adjust the clutch is enough to drive even the calmest person to throwing wrenches and screaming profanities.

Is your pedal worn? That's common on 1gs.
Did you shim your pivot ball?
A few of us had to add a longer master cylinder rod from a 2g to fix our issues. More info here:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/e...-shim-pivot-ball.527034/page-4#post-153756860
 
Good deal! thanks for the reply. I guess i'm just confused about how to adjust the clutch. I don't want to start another huge clutch adjustment procedure, but I guess I don't understand how turning the rod effects the master in any way. I seems like all it is doing is changing the pedal height. Am I turning the wrong thing?

You should be turning this medal rod under the dash.
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Is your clutch engaging right off the floor? If it is, that's a problem.
 
I have the pedal assembly out now. I replaced the bushing and had it welded before. I did find one problem. I must not of put the bushing back in where the clevis attaches. so I have a bunch of slack there. So, now i'm looking for a 10mm id x 12mm od bushing for that. I have heard about the 2g rod swap. I think since i have it out, I might as well swap that over. I'm still confused how turning the rod effects the master if it's not threaded internally... I'll have to do more looking. And yeah, I have become a professional curse word inventor! You may not know what I just said, but I guarantee you'll be offended :)
 
Adjusting that rod makes fluid start flowing to the slave sooner, or is supposed to if it works correctly. You are only trying to take up the slack in the system from no pressure to just starting to flow fluid, just FYI. You are looking for the point at which the master starts to push fluid and want that point to be as high on the pedal as possible for full disengagement and no clutch drag.
 
I just did my 2g rod modified 1g master install this weekend.
Definitely not a job I like to do often.
My old 1g set up, the master's rod was barely in the clevis.
That and a very low clutch release point.

I needed the added adjust-ability of the master mod to get the release perfect.
I wanted to get the adjustment at the master, not with a extended slave rod.
To do a master I loosen lock nut
Unbolt line and mounting nuts so master is loose
Then un-thread rod from clevis and leave clevis on the pedal assembly.
Remove master -replace with new modified one
Then the real fun part, thread new master's rod onto clevis and finish up rest of install- bleed and adjust.

In my case it worked out really well.
Now I have a much improved pedal release point (much higher thru adjustment)
then I had the ability to achieve with the stock 1g set up.
Might be a good mod for the OP as well.

As far as clutch master adjustments go think of it this way;
Your increasing or decreasing the stroke the clutch pedal can apply the clutch master cylinder thru adjustment.
 
Last edited:
It's fixed!!! I had to take the pedal assembly out again. I put a bushing in the hole on the clutch assembly where the clutch master clevis attaches. When I had it out before I must not a put the bushing back in. The hole was a 12 mm and the pin was a 10. Fixing that made a huge difference in itself. I also did the 2g swap and I couldn't be happier. I never could get the slave to lock up. Now I don't feel like such a crazy person when watching the Jack's video. I also did the no lift to shift mod to my 90!
 
I just did my 2g rod modified 1g master install this weekend.
Definitely not a job I like to do often.
My old 1g set up, the master's rod was barely in the clevis.
That and a very low clutch release point.

I needed the added adjust-ability of the master mod to get the release perfect.
I wanted to get the adjustment at the master, not with a extended slave rod.
To do a master I loosen lock nut
Unbolt line and mounting nuts so master is loose
Then un-thread rod from clevis and leave clevis on the pedal assembly.
Remove master -replace with new modified one
Then the real fun part, thread new master's rod onto clevis and finish up rest of install- bleed and adjust.

In my case it worked out really well.
Now I have a much improved pedal release point (much higher thru adjustment)
then I had the ability to achieve with the stock 1g set up.
Might be a good mod for the OP as well.

As far as clutch master adjustments go think of it this way;
Your increasing or decreasing the stroke the clutch pedal can apply the clutch master cylinder thru adjustment.

where at in the clutch travel does it start to engage. I feel like mine is rather high.
 
Previously as stated was near floor slightly lifting from complete pedal depression is where it would engage.

Now I can near adjust it to my hearts desire it seems, But I adjusted it properly .
And releases/begins engagement around abouts 1/3 to 1/2 way up the travel.
 
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