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2G Internal recommendations?

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Sam's GSX

5+ Year Contributor
395
54
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
I'm about to pick up a split long block with wiseco pistons and eagle rods, I plan on replacing the ring, and having the head decked, I was wondering if I should do anything else to the Internals before I put it in the car? it has arp mains and I will probably pick up L19 for the head, and I was thinking felpro for the gasket.
My goal is probably 450whp, it could go higher later, but I'm not sure at the moment.
Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks
 
From what I've read I have found that having cast pistons is better for medium HP and daily usage. Using forged is more for racing applications and has a slight slap against the walls before everything is at operating temperature. I've been keeping this in mind for my build, at first I thought forged was the bees knees but then I learned the difference and each type has its own place.

I would personally go through and double check all of the clearances of everything inside the block and confirm it is within the recommended spec of each aftermarket part and check all the stock parts are in tolerance as well. Make sure nothing is scored or scraped in any way and everything has a tight fit.
 
I'm about to pick up a split long block with wiseco pistons and eagle rods, I plan on replacing the ring, and having the head decked, I was wondering if I should do anything else to the Internals before I put it in the car? it has arp mains and I will probably pick up L19 for the head, and I was thinking felpro for the gasket.
My goal is probably 450whp, it could go higher later, but I'm not sure at the moment.
Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks
This is a great vid I found, check it out and it could help you with what your doing
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Oh ok, the guy has just taken it apart to check it, said nothing scored or scraped (used those exact words) I'll personally have it apart to do the rings and stuff, although I have no experience inside the engine, I'll check as well. So forged lasts less time than stock because of this?
From what I've read I have found that having cast pistons is better for medium HP and daily usage. Using forged is more for racing applications and has a slight slap against the walls before everything is at operating temperature. I've been keeping this in mind for my build, at first I thought forged was the bees knees but then I learned the difference and each type has its own place.

I would personally go through and double check all of the clearances of everything inside the block and confirm it is within the recommended spec of each aftermarket part and check all the stock parts are in tolerance as well. Make sure nothing is scored or scraped in any way and everything has a tight fit.
 
Oh ok, the guy has just taken it apart to check it, said nothing scored or scraped (used those exact words) I'll personally have it apart to do the rings and stuff, although I have no experience inside the engine, I'll check as well. So forged lasts less time than stock because of this?
a stock motor could last you 200,000 miles or 2,000 miles, same goes for a fully built engine as well. it all depends on how you drive and maintain it, forged or cast pistons, works both ways. you could have a fully build motor running only 200hp and by chance the block cracks and wastes your whole motor LOL. with the power level your looking to make with the internals in there you should be fine, dont worrie forged or cast. but do your normal, take apart engine label everything and dont mix anything up, freshen up rings and check crank/rod bearings gap and clearances. Make a few questions for your self and see what you can afford to do to that motor.

power level?
budget?
 
A general recommendation. Do not trust/believe what the vendor said.
Should check everything by yourself. If you are not familiar to this kind of work, ask a good machine shop to do.
If you are going to disassemble the engine, you should do pretty much everything to rebuild the engine. It shouldn't be just replacing the rings. Measure everything with crank, block, rods and oil pump. then have them bored/honed, line-honed, decked, reconditioned or/and replaced if necessary. Also plan all clearances according to how you would like to use the car and then set them properly. Properly build the engine with right parts and a good tune is the one that would make it last longer.
 
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Ok, so other than checking everything (and I'll look into exactly what to look for, later)
That build should be good for my goals is what I'm gathering.
And I am taking it to a machine shop.
 
What's the best way to tell what size rings to get? All I know right now is they are wiseco pistons and I can see the numbers on the top of one, I can measure it once I have them, but I dont want to get the wrong size.
Sorry for the newb questions about internals, I have not had to work with them yet, and I'd rather ask you guys then spend $130 and find out they're the wrong size.
 
What's the best way to tell what size rings to get? All I know right now is they are wiseco pistons and I can see the numbers on the top of one, I can measure it once I have them, but I dont want to get the wrong size.
Sorry for the newb questions about internals, I have not had to work with them yet, and I'd rather ask you guys then spend $130 and find out they're the wrong size.
Wiseco part number is on the piston top, so you can distinguish which ring set come with that piston kit. but it's better to check the mark on the top of rings, too. This is because in some case people use over size rings. So you should measure the actual cylinder size with a bore gauge (NOT with a caliper) to determine the right ring size. If the one who built the engine with the previous owner has put the PTW clearance on very loose side, maybe you would already have too much end gaps if you would buy the rings according to the piston's part number. In that case you would need over size ring set to have your desired ring end gaps.
 
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