The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

2G P1105 - Hesitation & intermittent break up

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Adrian216

Probationary Member
21
3
Feb 24, 2020
Cleveland, Ohio
Hey guys. I picked up my 96 gsx with a few wire / ground issues and a engine code p1105. The car is mainly stock, really struggles to start when it’s cold, hesitates at low rpm and breaks up intermittently under boost, occasionally letting out a backfire but has never stalled or shut off.

So I did some research on previous threads and read that someone has had luck with swapping the fuel pressure solenoid, so I have one on its way.. I just rerouted the vacuum lines, completely bypassing the solenoid altogether. That didn’t help anything so I’m assuming something else is causing this issue ?

Also *** Upon swapping out my blown out shifter bushings under the hood I noticed this random solenoid that is “capped” off right underneath the intake. Could this be causing me any issues?

Appreciate any feedback - thanks.
 

Attachments

  • D7D12450-D449-4FFC-BA0B-1AE2107CC379.jpeg
    D7D12450-D449-4FFC-BA0B-1AE2107CC379.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 98
  • EFB50859-F289-4DEE-B15F-740B42EE3B04.jpeg
    EFB50859-F289-4DEE-B15F-740B42EE3B04.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 176
Last edited:
The solenoid that it's capped off is your boost solenoid, im assuming you have a boost controller. as far as fuel solenoid check your hoses for cracks. You can also try running a vacuum straight from your intake manifold to fpr
 
Ahhhh.. boost solenoid. Lol. Thanks for letting me know. Yes I have a MBC. As for the vacuum - that’s exactly what I did. Straight from the intake to a T - that splits to my boost gauge ( I think? ) and FPR. As for any cracks, I didn’t visibly see any but I may just get a few ft and swap them out.
 
To take the code away, just add a vacuum line from the boost controller, to te boost sensor, connect the hose to the very top nipple and cap the other nipple.

Concerning to the other problem, Don’t just change vacuum lines, but do a boostt leak test first.

Fix all leaks and give it a try to see what it does and report back.
 
Why is this thread talking about the boost and fuel pressure solenoids, btw they are not sensors. The p1105 is a map sensor code.
 
Why is this thread talking about the boost and fuel pressure solenoids, btw they are not sensors. The p1105 is a map sensor code.


Boost solenoid just caught my eye and I asked a question to see if they were somehow related. Fuel pressure solenoid is what all of my forum reading pointed to first when I search p1105. But ok I’ll look into the MAP sensor.
 
Boost solenoid just caught my eye and I asked a question to see if they were somehow related. Fuel pressure solenoid is what all of my forum reading pointed to first when I search p1105. But ok I’ll look into the MAP sensor.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Well that explains alot. I didn't look at my book I just Googled the code. I thought all obd2 codes were the same and standardized.
 
This too.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
First - I replaced the fuel pressure solenoid. No fix. I’ll swap out the mfi relay then dig into those harnesses as a last resort because I don’t like using a multi meter

So after installing an AFR gauge I have realized that the car runs VERY lean after restarting the engine. Lean as in 17-18+ @ idle. This is solely after the engine is shut off then restarted. The first cold start the engine will warm up and run literally almost perfect, idleing around 14 and I’ve ran the car for over 5hrs straight / 100 miles with no issues. If I start the car and stall pulling out, the car won’t run the same.

So to me it sounds like I’m not getting enough fuel after turning on the engine while it’s warm ?
 
Last edited:
Had a similar problem with my gst. The fuel pump has to sit in the nozzle of the sending unit super strong. If they did not install a new fuel pump correctly it will bleed the pressure back into the tank.

The fuel pump has a deal that goes on the end of the pump and it's extremely picky. So if the car has had the pump replaced check on that oring and take a picture of the pump in the sleeve.

Check fuel pressure with a gauge when you start having the pressure issues
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top