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Spyder No start issue

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brettsvn

15+ Year Contributor
33
11
May 22, 2008
Victorville, California
I have a 99 spyder GS automatic (4g64) and was originally throwing quite a few codes including one for injector circuit (had a bad injector), misfire same cylinder as injector (pretty obvious if an injector is bad), p0125 (coolant sensor I believe), a p01750 (shift solenoid), and a p0340 (cas?).

so I bought it for $300, limped it home without checking the codes, changed the pulse generator (that was the original code) and it seemed to run fine for a day. I shut it off and when I started it back up I got the injector and misfire code. I cleaned the injectors, put them back and was running good for my next trip. I shut it down and the codes were back. I left it sitting over night and in the morning it started up and ran fine. Same thing happened on shut down but was then introduced to the coolant level code. So I checked the thermostat (previous owner took it out), installed a new one, cleaned the connectors for the coolant sensor, changed the CAS with a new one, fired it up and it ran for about 4 seconds and shit down. It did that twice and on the third time I got nothing and that’s currently how it sits. Now when I go to crank I don’t get anything besides a little hum and click from the start relay. I checked the start relay and have continuity, checked the started 4 times at Autozone, switched back to the old CAS, checked all connections and tried again with no luck. So I checked the CAS harness at the sensor and seem to be getting voltage (hopefully I’m doing it right) I put my common to the black wire and my positive to pin 2 and read something like 5.3v but the weird thing is, I checked the output from the ecu and got no voltage at all. I believe I’m doing it right but am just not positive, I looked up the schematic and went in the back side of the plug in the ECU to the CAS wire and the other to ground and got no voltage reading. Am I doing something wrong? I’ve read countless threads and seem to be on info overload so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!
 
did you clear the codes? cause on my 1995 gsx if i get the p0340 code (CAS) it will pop the CEL light and then car will start but instantly shutdown( this would happened every time the cel poped up) erase the code's then try to start it again if it shuts down again instantly after start....you have bad ground wires or battery connectors are bad
 
sounds like loose grounds...
Possibly man. I put it all back together and it fired right up with the new injectors it’s back to running smooth... idk, hopefully the problem doesn’t come back. I checked the grounds and cleaned them and made sure they were tight but maybe I missed something somewhere along the way.. then again, it’s now running so maybe not? Lol
 
As stated before, unhook the battery for maybe 10 minutes and hook it back up.(also try touching the positive and negative wires together for maybe 30 seconds. I never really knew if this works with dsm’s but this usually was a good way to clear them on my 01’ sport trac. Lol.)
 
It does sound like an electrical issue, and probably a ground issue at that. Your Spyder was one of the few models that got a second fuel pump relay, which are known for wearing out. A dying/dead secondary fuel pump relay could cause a no start condition.

While you're tracing electrical wiring, you might as well eliminate a potential problem and bypass the secondary fuel pump relay. Here is the write up we did on bypassing this unnecessary time bomb.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g64-spyder-gs-fuel-pump-relay-module-bypass.497574/
 
It does sound like an electrical issue, and probably a ground issue at that. Your Spyder was one of the few models that got a second fuel pump relay, which are known for wearing out. A dying/dead secondary fuel pump relay could cause a no start condition.

While you're tracing electrical wiring, you might as well eliminate a potential problem and bypass the secondary fuel pump relay. Here is the write up we did on bypassing this unnecessary time bomb.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g64-spyder-gs-fuel-pump-relay-module-bypass.497574/
Thanks for the input! With your mod, when you say “make these three connections” do you literally just remove the module and connect all three wires together or?
 
It’s only 2 wires, but since You will extend one of them to connects to 2 other wires, that’s technically 3 connections. If you are unsure about which wires to connect, just follow the colors on the diagram, and make the connections, one at a time.
 
Well when I got hole today, it fired right up as normal and was running fine, I let it warm up, shut it off and started fine again, but on the third time, it was a no go. It’s as if it has a problem only after being warmed up. And after letting it sit and cool down it’s back to normal operation. I did swap the CAS again and no dice. I’m running through wiring in the morning again. The related grounds would be from the battery to firewall and from the IM to firewall correct? There is also one on the coolant sensor and I will also check the PTU in the morning as well. Fingers crossed it get this shiz figured out
 
...It’s as if it has a problem only after being warmed up. And after letting it sit and cool down it’s back to normal operation.

From my Tech article: "The car would run great, switching from open loop to closed loop, until it warmed up. Then it would stumble and die."

Hmm...
 
From my Tech article: "The car would run great, switching from open loop to closed loop, until it warmed up. Then it would stumble and die."

Hmm...
Yeah Im gonna get er done today as soon as I figure out how to do it LOL. Wiring diagrams are my weakness but looks like I better start learning haha
 
Alright... so my BMW is about to be done and I’m starting back on the GS Spyder to get it running. Ended up changing the starter and fuel pump and it now cranks and starts but is still dying. I checked the voltage at the fuel pump plug (black wire blue stripe) and am only getting 0.028 volts. Am I on the wrong connector or am I checking this wrong?
 
Annnddd that’s a wrap.. turns out I had two bad from stock cam position sensors so third time replacing was a charm. Got a new starter, fuel injectors, fuel pump, negative and ground cables in the process but she’s up and running finally. Thanks for the help all.
 
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