- Thread starter
- #26
1990TSIAWDTALON
Moderator
- 11,442
- 8,075
- Nov 14, 2013
-
Independence,
Kansas
It was fun and when the tuner is done I am sure the boost will come in sooner and maybe I'll have the NOS solenoid replaced too.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I will probably tap into the switch. I tested it with my relay and a toggle switch and it seemed to do what its supposed to. Just be more efficient on the brake... or a nitrous switch in a wheel@enriquez2000 What did you use for a brake switch, or have you gotten that far yet?
Only time id use the ebrake is if I took the ratcheting system out if it so i could just drop the handle and goI was going to mention the E-Brake switch but I think a hand button would be good for me if I don't mount a micro-switch to the system at the brake pedal.
Wow thanks man. It’s doing to Help me solve my need for shifting up and Down.Here is Part 2 of the Smart Shift 100.1 review, if you haven't seen Part 1, go to....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/forcedfour-smartshift-100-1-review-part-1-of-2.513993/
I should add that the software that comes with this product allows you to make your own shift map for automatic mode, read and clear TCU codes and view and calibrate both your TPS and VSS signals for accurate performance.
Thanks for reading!
Shortcut wiring: (thanks to member @amsrn13)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.You must be logged in to view this image or video.You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This could be as easy as fluid needing a change or valve body...Wow thanks man. It’s doing to Help me solve my need for shifting up and Down.
Since you know so much about the automatic i have a question:
1. when the car is cold and i put it in D it takes a little bit for it to react and go forward ? (Not a problem when it is at temperature
2. When it’s warm and I want to go from D to R it makes a jump in the car
What Can that be ?
It is just before i upgrade to anything shiftbox ect ect
I just Got fluid change But he (my mechanic) did not change filter. It is shifting just fine doing driving. :/ could there be any other reason ?This could be as easy as fluid needing a change or valve body...
Is your tcu ok? How does it shift when driving?
Changing fluid without filter is a big nono unless you had low miles on the filter.I just Got fluid change But he (my mechanic) did not change filter. It is shifting just fine doing driving. :/ could there be any other reason ?
Okay so just to be sure.Changing fluid without filter is a big nono unless you had low miles on the filter.
The cold fluid jump is why i questioned the fluid. Also if capacitors are starting to fail it can be jumpy. If line pressure was messed with it can also be jumpy but will do so between shifts. Valve body can get clogged and then flow freely when warm.
My shift box makes the car jumpy... but i made it that way
How many liters of fluid do I need ?Changing fluid without filter is a big nono unless you had low miles on the filter.
The cold fluid jump is why i questioned the fluid. Also if capacitors are starting to fail it can be jumpy. If line pressure was messed with it can also be jumpy but will do so between shifts. Valve body can get clogged and then flow freely when warm.
My shift box makes the car jumpy... but i made it that way
Okay. And just to be sure. How many liter fluid do I need ? I Will order a filter. What type of fluid would you recomend?Trans can be tricky...
if fluid level is off it can have problems
Fluid old and dirty problems
Filter old or dirty problems
Tcu caps leaking problems
I never do a fluid change without a mitsu filter