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ForcedFour SmartShift 100.1 review PART 2 of 2

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It was fun and when the tuner is done I am sure the boost will come in sooner and maybe I'll have the NOS solenoid replaced too.
 
Hey just watched your video again being excited to be up and running. Sounds like no spool on the line for you, are you getting any boost when you launch? You should be able to build at least 10psi I would think.

Wish you were closer we could have some fun with our toys
 
3lbs....thats it. Converter is stock so tight. If I hadn't burned up the NOS solenoid, it would leave harder and get right into spool. I'll get that fixed and be happy. I have to finish my sons 7 bolt short block then I can get back to my car. Thanks for following!!!
 
Did you ever get any documentation from Shawn with an explanation of the maps and numbering. I think it would be a good piece for the right up to explain to folks what the numbers they are putting in mean. Most will figure it out but someone diving in that doesnt play often could benefit.

Just a thought
 
I should just add it to the writeup. I can hardly get a reply from Shawn and haven't ever spoke to him in person. I will see about putting the map numbers in, although its just TPS % and MPH numbers, they are never talked about.
Did you get your maps working? Need any assistance?
 
I got mine working great! It was just a thought. I still cant figure out the stall mode, but ill be working on it thus weekend and hopefully give my explanation.
 
Well please share so we can have a good section for others (and there are a few for sure) to reference!
Any data on your end is good data to add to the thread I have been trying to keep current.
:thumb:
 
Stall up mode explained

The stall up mode requires:
*working/connected throttle position sensor
*brake switch
*RPM or speed signal (both preferred)

Simply configure the window you want stall up mode to be active. The default values should work but you might need to adjust the RPM values for your setup. Make sure the enable check box is checked, make sure while brake switch active is checked, and check hold 2nd gear while active box. That’s all that is necessary. When ALL conditions are met, which they should be if you are sitting still WOT and on the brake and RPM is in the window it will automatically select 2nd gear. The display will not reflect it unless you are using one of the standalone displays that read actual solenoid outputs. As soon as the brake is released or vehicle speed exceeds the max MPH value it will revert back to 1st gear instantly.
 
Very NICE addition to the thread! Thank you!
Now, the box will work without the brake switch but it looks like I need to wire one in so I can meet the parameters. This should help the driving thru the brakes, which I almost did on my first pass this year, and first pass in 2 years I think.
Thank you to ALL that help contribute to this "Instuctional Manual" thread!!
:thumb:
Marty
 
@enriquez2000 What did you use for a brake switch, or have you gotten that far yet?
 
Something like this.....???
Right now the top is for NOS and bottom is for EBC to open fully but I can have them do anything and thought the same as you, that a button to push would be great! Maybe I need another set on the other side :sneaky:
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Exactly... 2 switch types you can use

On only when pressed(releases when you let go lime most NOS) or locked on so that you dont accidently let off the button while staging. With the second type you would have to remember to push it a 2nd time at launch

Brake switch makes it pretty seamless. Other way reminds me of a bump button on 1/8 mile cars. All those ways would work.

Or... if you use ebrake to launch you could wire to that instead.
 
I was going to mention the E-Brake switch but I think a hand button would be good for me if I don't mount a micro-switch to the system at the brake pedal.
 
YEA.....that dropping the handle is what worried me, as when I tried that, the handle didn't just "FALL" down, I had to help it which would have probably left it in 2nd gear for me.
 
Here is Part 2 of the Smart Shift 100.1 review, if you haven't seen Part 1, go to....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/forcedfour-smartshift-100-1-review-part-1-of-2.513993/

I should add that the software that comes with this product allows you to make your own shift map for automatic mode, read and clear TCU codes and view and calibrate both your TPS and VSS signals for accurate performance.
Thanks for reading!

Shortcut wiring: (thanks to member @amsrn13)

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Wow thanks man. It’s doing to Help me solve my need for shifting up and Down. :D

Since you know so much about the automatic i have a question:
1. when the car is cold and i put it in D it takes a little bit for it to react and go forward ? (Not a problem when it is at temperature

2. When it’s warm and I want to go from D to R it makes a jump in the car

What Can that be ?

It is just before i upgrade to anything shiftbox ect ect
 
Wow thanks man. It’s doing to Help me solve my need for shifting up and Down. :D

Since you know so much about the automatic i have a question:
1. when the car is cold and i put it in D it takes a little bit for it to react and go forward ? (Not a problem when it is at temperature

2. When it’s warm and I want to go from D to R it makes a jump in the car

What Can that be ?

It is just before i upgrade to anything shiftbox ect ect
This could be as easy as fluid needing a change or valve body...

Is your tcu ok? How does it shift when driving?
 
I just Got fluid change But he (my mechanic) did not change filter. It is shifting just fine doing driving. :/ could there be any other reason ?
Changing fluid without filter is a big nono unless you had low miles on the filter.

The cold fluid jump is why i questioned the fluid. Also if capacitors are starting to fail it can be jumpy. If line pressure was messed with it can also be jumpy but will do so between shifts. Valve body can get clogged and then flow freely when warm.

My shift box makes the car jumpy... but i made it that way LOL
 
Changing fluid without filter is a big nono unless you had low miles on the filter.

The cold fluid jump is why i questioned the fluid. Also if capacitors are starting to fail it can be jumpy. If line pressure was messed with it can also be jumpy but will do so between shifts. Valve body can get clogged and then flow freely when warm.

My shift box makes the car jumpy... but i made it that way LOL
Okay so just to be sure.
You want me to change the fluid and the filter again?
 
Changing fluid without filter is a big nono unless you had low miles on the filter.

The cold fluid jump is why i questioned the fluid. Also if capacitors are starting to fail it can be jumpy. If line pressure was messed with it can also be jumpy but will do so between shifts. Valve body can get clogged and then flow freely when warm.

My shift box makes the car jumpy... but i made it that way LOL
How many liters of fluid do I need ?
 
Trans can be tricky...
if fluid level is off it can have problems
Fluid old and dirty problems
Filter old or dirty problems
Tcu caps leaking problems

I never do a fluid change without a mitsu filter
 
Trans can be tricky...
if fluid level is off it can have problems
Fluid old and dirty problems
Filter old or dirty problems
Tcu caps leaking problems

I never do a fluid change without a mitsu filter
Okay. And just to be sure. How many liter fluid do I need ? I Will order a filter. What type of fluid would you recomend?
 
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