I assume that the motor is still connected to the trans ...If the trans is in park the motor will not turn . ???

Do be aware the crank should never be rotated counterclockwise at all. This is opposite of the engine's normal rotation and could allow the timing belt to jump. If this has occurred, it is possible that there are pistons butted up against valves preventing rotation.

Have you made sure your rods aren't binding up against the block or some other potential interference somewhere?

Did you double check bearing size?

I had this exact problem when I accidentally installed undersized (thicker) bearings one time. This should be a very easy thing to troubleshoot. Undo what you did and see if the problem goes away.

hey everyone thanks for the reply its a manual trans and in neutral.. and Ill check to see if the bearings are to big because I just bought the standard size since its stock to my knowledge

You mic'd the crank pins with engine in the car? Or used plastigauge? Or just bought a set of standard bearings and assumed they'd have the right oil clearance?

It's like playing Russian roulette with 1 empty and 5 loaded.

delta 448 I just went head first and threw them in no checking, probably not a good idea but i just wanted to get it on the road, but im going to get some plasti gauge and see if taking the bearing out frees up the crank... by the way do the caps only go on one way I had a heck of a time getting them back on

The rod caps do only go one way and they have to go back on the rod that they came from, if you ran them down backwards or on the wrong rod, I would pull the rods and replace them or have them resized.

Even if you put in standard bearings and your crank is 10 under it should rotate, some oem bearings will have the size stamp on them and so your replacements.
Did you clean your r ods and the back of each bearings and then installed them or you put something between then which wil be a no-no

The point is, why changing the rod bearing? It's probably spun bearings. and if they were spun badly then most of case the rod caps are no longer within spec. That's why they don't fit with new bearings.
It's better to have them reconditioned, it would save your time and money. even you change the rod bearings for now, it's just a time bomb, you would need to rebuild soon.

If I was to do a rebuild is there a forum on here yall could point me too so I can get the best parts for a moderate hp, maybe 350-400, output for a front wheel drive... I really want to do a complete bumper to bumper rebuild

https://www.google.com/search?clien...YwLjE2LjGYAQCgAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

Its sounds like you have a hell of a challenge.

I'm not sure in you experience, DSM's require alot of specific things in specific places to run right. As do most cars.

But if you buy the right parts and put them in the right place they can be fun/frustrating cars.

I'm guessing this isnt your daily?? I'd find a spot you can put the car on jack stands and do a lot of wrenching and reading.

This forum your on has a lot of info. Most likely any question you could ever have has been answered. If not post it up and someone has probably delt with it or can tell you what needs to happen.

I normally go on google type my question or topic then follow what I typed with. " :site.www.dsmtuners.com " then hit enter and bam! Any forum thread on this site relating to my topic shows up. Rarely have I needed to post because it's already been answered.

If you click the link I posted in my comment before. When that window opens just change where it shows "how to rebuild engine" to your topic in question you'll find alot of answers.

Hope you find what you need and if not post up your questions. You could also fill out your profile so people can see what make/model/year car your working on.